https://usa7s.net/ips/discover/USA7s - All ActivityenSo, it turns out I was NOT out of gas, so now it's time for a new fuel pump!Sun, 19 Apr 2026 01:59:11 +0000So my Birkin died on the road last week after driving about 40 miles. It was acting like it ran out of fuel, even though the gauge was reading half full. I figured either it was the fuel pump or the gauge was on the fritz. The pump was still making noise, but seemed quieter. A friend got there with a couple of gallons of fuel about 20 minutes later. I put the gas in and turned the key- pump was back to full buzz- car fired right up and drove the 6 miles straight home. At this point I still was not sure if it was the pump or just out of gas. Today I drove it to the gas station to see how much fuel it would take- if it were out of gas and I put in a couple of gallons it should have taken 7-8 gallons. Well, I couldn't even get 2 gallons in it... so gauge was correct. So now I have no faith in the fuel pump that's in it, so I'm going to replace it rather than get stranded next time it decides to stop working again. I've put about 1300 miles on since I got it last fall and have done many drives over 100 miles and this the first time it's given me issue. The question is what pump? Anyone know what pump to use? Zetec with stock intake and fuel injection. I climbed underneath to take a look, but I couldn't see any part numbers on the existing pump. I did some looking around and it looks like I need 60 psi and 33 gph. I found this one on Summit Racing that looks pretty much exactly like the existing and has the right pressure and flow. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-251051 Any other options that I should be looking at? Here's a pic of what's in there now.Sun, 19 Apr 2026 01:55:57 +0000It got bid to $12k and $13.5k on both auctions on BAT. Bullet paid $16k at Mecum, plus fees and transport, and thought they were gonna make money. The only thing they did to it was shine the paint.Sun, 19 Apr 2026 00:33:46 +0000As it was listed with no reserve, it sold for $11k earlier today. Heck, that’s a Lotus* for Locost money! *allegedSat, 18 Apr 2026 20:26:48 +0000Sat, 18 Apr 2026 20:10:53 +0000A morning run with my son. Checked in with @BlakeJSat, 18 Apr 2026 18:35:45 +0000Has anyone done up doors in colors other than black? in all the pictures I see online, I’ve only seen black.Sat, 18 Apr 2026 17:53:46 +0000I would have lost myfckingshit.Sat, 18 Apr 2026 17:26:19 +0000I was going to suggest a large gage soldering iron on the stud and clamped on so the heat is applied to that core. Heat until you see smoke.Sat, 18 Apr 2026 17:23:14 +0000Sat, 18 Apr 2026 15:27:54 +0000Sat, 18 Apr 2026 14:43:32 +0000Yes, the heat gun worked. Thanks ever much.Sat, 18 Apr 2026 14:31:28 +0000OK. I'll take a shot at it with the heat gun.Sat, 18 Apr 2026 03:09:58 +0000Sat, 18 Apr 2026 00:56:19 +0000Would freezing it break the bond?Sat, 18 Apr 2026 00:44:09 +0000I figured that changing the side mirrors on the Birkin would be a walk in the park. The mirrors that came to me with this car are flat. The left one is wonky, and a DPO tried to fix that with an airplane clamp. That does not work. Got new mirrors. Convex. Look good. Mounting method looks identical. I rolled back the big locknut. Now all I have to do is grab onto the mirror strut and rotate it out. No go. I took a closer look: I see red. I fear that some DPO has used Red LocTite on this mirror stem. WHY? There is a massive locknut on this (much-more substantial stuff than on my Caterham). I can't believe it would rattle loose untreated, much less rattle loose with Blue LocTite. Just for laughs, I check the right mirror. No, that one is not coming off either. OK, so if it is re LocTite, there is no way it is coming out without heat. So how much heat do I need? Will a serious heat gun do the job? I have already wrestled off the wind deflectors, since they certainly will not survive any heat in the area. Should I not try heat here? Plan B would be to declare the removal imposible, crack the nut and Dremel the part that didn't fracture saw the mirror stem off leaving the threaded stub sticking out of the windshield frame find or make coupling nuts and screw the new mirror into that.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 23:38:15 +0000Got the Birkin out for a drive. First time this year. This is the car park for the Mendota Overlook of the confluence of the Minnesota and Mississippi rivers. The weather went right back in the dumper after this. Mirror adventure in another thread...Fri, 17 Apr 2026 23:07:39 +0000Had disturbing news that there may be no autocross at the LOG. No autocross, I'm out. Stay tuned.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 22:45:25 +0000I'm so sorry to those of you that asked for the price. No idea what happened but I missed the posts at the time. My goal is to part with the car this spring, so will sell for $20K if the buyer makes it simple. I'll give it a few days here and then post on RaceCarsDirect.com for $25K.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 21:27:22 +0000I can see a reason. On one side of the car the exhaust system could be in the way. You might have room for one ratchet and not two. Then again, there is no reason that the ratchet end has to be exactly in-line with the main piece of E-track. On the exhaust side of the car, you could run the front-tire ratchet behind the front tire. The ratchet for the rear tire could sit offset from the main E-track and anchor to a short track placed for that purpose. A single could do it. If it is a single, I'd be sure that one is through-bolted. I put my E-track in this trailer and through-bolted all of it, except where the hole hit a steel frame member I tapped the frame for 1/4-20. When I bought the Caterham, the tracks were too far apart for the single-strap method. I put in a second set of tracks butted up against the originals. Since I didn't have a helper, I screwed this second track to the deck except where I hit a steel frame member I tapped the frame for 1/4-20. Usually, the Seven lands so I put one clip in each track and the strap runs at a slight diagonal over the center of the tire. With the wider wheels I now have for the Caterham, I will probably be on the original outside tracks. Time for lunch. The pounding rain and light hail seems over...Fri, 17 Apr 2026 20:27:47 +0000I always go off the ends of the car, but that's really because I am used to tying down cars like an Elise where you have no choice. I see no reason why a guy could not tie down a Seven by having both ratchets between the front and rear tires. The geometry of the strap holding the tire to the track is the same either way. I don't recall seeing a formula car tied down that way, but there is no reason it would not work. BTW, the guy doing that youtube video is not that good. Among other things, there is no good reason to tie up your strap ends like that on an enclosed trailer. That's only to keep them from flying around in the slipstream. Also, I looked again at the site and I don't understand why you want those rings and the of the straps. This set is like mine, and it is 31.95 a corner: https://www.autohaulersupply.com/products/ultimate-horizontal-e-track-wheel-strap-low-pro-553719?variant=50221642744114 I have never tried that Erickson brand, but I cannot imagine they would be any better.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 19:43:45 +0000I have bought from Steve at Autohauler Supply and have been happy. Last year I treated myself to a new set of over-the-tire straps and these are the best ones yet. Ratchets are silky-smooth. Right now they are $36.95 a corner. https://www.autohaulersupply.com/products/2x11-ratchet-hdor-endshdorauto-idler-lps-dw-554676?variant=49012265746738Fri, 17 Apr 2026 18:58:09 +0000Bingo. I'm a messy guy, but I always hang up my rear E-track straps on the trailer wall. I also put some big clamps on the walls to hang bags with Seven weather gear.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 18:44:19 +0000The car in question is not a solid axle, but deDion. The rear hubs are bolted to flat tabs that extend forward from the deDion tube. There are four bolts, I believe, and by shimming one could adjust both camber and toe. I can't seem to lay hands on the latest report from thealignmentguy.com but I do remember that my Caterham has some negative rear camber in it now. It has a lot more negative front camber, which is not adjustable. My Birkin has a live rear axle. The front is adjustable for camber and looks about zero. I'm planning to adjust it to match the Caterham and go from there. BTW, you can get some negative camber in the rear of solid-axle cars. It tends to cause a lot of wear on the parts. Back in the stone age, a guy I knew raced a Mustang notchback. He was going to enter a TransAm race and took the Mustang to a tech to get some negative camber. He told the guy he wanted to watch. The tech advised he not watch because it would be disturbing and might give him nighmares.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 18:39:46 +0000One other thought - if you're having them put track on the floor, get them to put some (horizontally) around the walls, too - makes a good place to store straps and also gives a way to strap other things (furniture, etc.) you may periodically use the trailer to haul.Fri, 17 Apr 2026 18:34:22 +0000