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sf4018

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Everything posted by sf4018

  1. A competent regular shop can do it, there are lots around that are not, particularly the high street ones so make sure you trust them. I had my whole suspension tuned by a Porsche service center during initial setup after the build as they have some top quality tools and equipment (toe, camber, corner weights, etc). After that I purchased the tools to do it myself. If your just talking toe then this will do the trick... Tenhulzen 3300 Tenhulzen Two-Wheel Alignment Systems with Toe Plates | Summit Racing ...it's basic but does the job. There are tons of others too.
  2. Maybe try loosening the top and bottom bolts of the dampers a couple of turns and push up the dedion and see if there’s any play. Can’t imagine the rear subframe is bent up, that would have to be some major force to do that.
  3. Those spacers were missing from the bags I got in the original shipment, I installed without them not knowing I needed them as the build manual doesn’t show them...here’s the page of the build manual with no spacer, and a photo of the bottom of the damper with the spacers...the top may be different.
  4. Long shot but do the top and bottom of the dampers have the spacers like in the pic below between the bolt and damper hole?
  5. I have about a 1/2" gap between bottom of dedion tube and chassis frame when on stands. Maybe send some pics?
  6. It’s not used for my rear ARB, but I have a SV not S3. A lot of those packs have stuff that’s for different configurations, I ended up with a draw full.
  7. My Duratec (2.0 not 2.5) runs very hot, the trigger for the fan on for my Duratec is 105C and cuts off at 101C, which freaked me out the first time I ran the engine, but Caterham confirmed this is correct. Once running at speed it cools to 94C. You could maybe add a switch to override the ECU output to the fan and keep the fan on so the engine stays cooler than the 105-101 range (or whatever the 2.5 is), it'll be a cheap mod anyways.
  8. Fast lap from the day...
  9. Not a forgiving track to do 360s like Mr Brighton! 1:40.1 so far in 1st session. A lot bumpier than I remember from driving “normal” cars, there’s a big divot under the bridge between 10b and 11, the steering correction when going over that is pretty dramatic.
  10. Kinda last minute but if anyone is local to Road Atlanta I’ll be at a track day there tomorrow (Friday) if anyone wants to stop by, hang out and/or go for a spin...
  11. The ZZRs I'm removing from my wheels are lightly used (1 day on track) but the fronts are 5-6 years old from manufacture date, if anyone wants the set of 4 let me know otherwise I'm going to bin them.
  12. Try Roger Kraus roger@rogerkrausracing.com, he had the ZZRs in stock a few months back. Edit: Sorry didn't see you already did that. Edit 2: I can sell my set of ZZRs if you don't mind buying used. I bought them October last year, used them for 1 day on track only so they are in good shape just not sticker.
  13. What “legislative challenges” are they talking about? Brexit fallout? Elimination of gas engines? Who knows!
  14. I'm really curious how easy or hard it'll be to flush out 5 year old gas from the lines, keep us posted!
  15. Looks great! I know how much work that was to do, thanks sooo much. What does the blue circle shield mean? Are you guys special?
  16. So I researched brake pads some more, starting with the 2 caterham types on offer. The “uprated” pad is a bog standard Delphi 407CP. The “standard” pad is AP racing brand with ferodo material DS25 type material (and more expensive). The descriptions seem upside down. I could not find any AP Racing pads online that I was comfortable with, Ferodo didn’t seem to sell the shape needed. Then I found Pagid racing which sells the right shape in 2 compounds - RS14 and RS42 (shape 1163). I guess it’s going to be a guessing game which compound to use. Has anyone used these pads or have any other p
  17. Could try disconnecting the battery after starting the engine then switch on lights etc to load it up, see what happens at idle and higher rpm? Sure sounds like an alternator issue of some kind.
  18. sf4018

    Barber MSP

    They are part numbers 43370 and 43380, compound R35. They fit on 13/6 front and 13/8 rear wheels, almost identical dimensions to the Avon ZZRs. They are actually meant for the F2000 formula cars.
  19. sf4018

    Barber MSP

    After all the crappy weather the last few weeks we had an sunny and pleasantly cool weekend, so thankful for that! This was the last stint of the weekend, I put the rather beaten up Hoosier slicks on for it, so they were not the most stable the first few laps while working off the grain and flat spots. They are about 4-5 seconds a lap faster then the Avon ZZRs and about 200% more fun. The new throttle pedal worked great, but with my Sasquatch feet I still leaned on it some when braking, but much better! [video=youtube;-WYPb5F0odA]
  20. I contacted Caterham about the upgraded rear brake package Problem is there's no handbrake and would not be road legal, which after the effort and cost to get the title and tag seems overall a step backwards. I think for now I'm going to try and add some ductwork and see if I can make them last 2 weekends at least, swapping rear pads out isn't the end of the world.
  21. Wow, thanks for all the advice, you guys are great! Anker - Fronts locked up last weekend, nice flat spot to prove it! CarlB - that was a good test, the brake bias seems fine (the fronts were somewhat harder to turn than the rears at different pressures). Croc - Rears Dragging: rear disc rotates by hand though I do hear noise as they do seem to be in contact, but I can’t see how that wouldn’t happen. KnifeySpoony - fronts are air cooled discs with quad calipers (the uprated version), rears are the standard solid ones and standard calipers. Rear pads are the uprated ones from Caterha
  22. There’s an oil temp sender on the sump oil tank that’s allegedly not used by the ECU (even though there is wiring for it). I had some back and forth with Caterham about it during the build. I still have it connected to be sure, but you could maybe wire to that sender to your gauge so as to not interfere with the rest of the system? Can also be accessed via Canbus/obd2, which is what I ended up doing.
  23. I just finished the first track day of the year, the rear brakes I’ve changed one time already and are already half worn, the fronts are on the first set of pads still and about 80% pad left. Is this normal? I would have thought the fronts would go first... Thanks!
  24. Remember when hybrid cars were the in thing? That didn't turn out well. Same for "clean diesel" in Europe. Electric cars are just he latest way to destroy the planet. I just can't see gas cars going away, but it would make sense if Caterham developed an electric version though, at least for political cover, but it could also be a good seller too.
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