Anker

#4: Bad ground connection!

I am still on the original mechanical fuel pump.

Until recently my daily driver was a Mercedes CLK 350 convertible. A great car, but not a lot of storage room. Also, with that I had 3 rag tops in addition to the Caterham, so a few months ago I joined the dark side and traded the CLK for an Acura RDX. I got a 2018 because I prefer a naturally aspirated 3.5 liter 6 to a 2 liter four banger turbo. My wife has a Chevvy Volt, which is a great car for local trips.

Bring it to the Larz Anderson British car lawn day on July 11. Preregistration required, but it is only $25! There will be several more Lotus there, including my Caterham. Anker

Another possibility could be that the advance mechanism in your distributor is sticking. If you have a timing light check whether there is smooth advance of the timing as you advance throttle.

I suspect they are backfires or spitting through the carbs. A misfire will feel exactly as you described.

HD? Where and who is that?

I suspect you have the idle mixture set too lean. When you accelerate slowly you aren't getting any help from the acceleration pump. The fat that it goes away when warm further supports this thesis. When setting the idle mixture you should put the screw half-way between the points where you notice a drop in RPM. Your idle jets may also be on the small side and going one size up may eliminate the problem. My car was built with too small idle jets and had a flat spot between 2000 and 3000 RPM when accelerating slowly, even when hot. It was cured when I had larger jets ins

Its so cool I can't resist. How much? Anker

This sounds like a typical vapor lock in the fuel lines. If it is, the solution is to insulate the fuel lines from the heat of the exhaust or any other hot parts of the engine, or possibly reroute them so they a further from how objects.

They need to lift one of the front wheels off the floor to check the steering linkage. Make sure they place the jack under the tow ring and not some other random place that can damage the frame. They will most likely ask you to drive the car into the bay and let you operate the switches that, if yours is like mine, are unlabeled.

The gas station at the junction of SR 117 and SR 62 in Stow is a great place. They love exotic cars and they inspect all of my cars. Mention the red and aluminum Caterham and my two Porsche Boxsters to them and say that I recommended them. Anker

Reducing caster would absolutely have changed the amount of effort to turn. Toe-in also has an effect. For track I would do 0 degrees toe. It makes the car sensitive to camber, but in my opinion that's good for a track car.

I'll be looking for you. Mine is currently out of action. I pulled the head last week and the valve seals I had bought were the wrong size. I am trying to find a source for them.