Anker

The seals that Caterham installed are junk! I had smoke from my car when starting and lifting. I pulled the head and replaced the valve seals and that cured the problem. It is easy to replace the seals and check they are the problem. Getting the correct seals is a real issue, there are two thicknesses of valve steams and guides and you have to get the correct ones. I needed the narrow ones, with valve stems The ones I ordered from Burton Power are SKU: FP705A "Valve stem oil seal (each) - suitable for duplex valve springs: Ford X/Flow OHV Kent, pre-X/Flow & BDA FP705A". The cr

"I still have a small leak somewhere as coolant system bleeds pressure when left for a few hours while in test." That is the big problem! When the system cools down air will be pulled into the coolant look through that leak. Air circulating can cause all the problems you describe.

I set it to idle at 1000 RPM Anker

Check the thickness of the washer under the nut that holds the lower attachment of the stay. If there is a thick washer, or multiple washers you can move the stays a bit away from the tires. On my road tires I can push my fingers into the gap past the first knuckle but not past the second knuckle on my fingers.

I am not familiar with those.

Yes! What are those tires? The sidewalls must be quite flexible. Performance tires usually have less flexible sidewalls.

If you run at low pressures and aggressive turning that is quite possible. What pressures and what kind of driving do you do?

There's a person you need to connect with there. He will be driving around in a golf cart and is an employee. His name is Walter Irvine. He is a big Lotus fan and organizes blats out of Lime Rock Park, called the LLG, Always a good group to be a member of, even if you rarely make it to Lime Rock.

I am in Stow!

Here are a couple more suggestions, based on my own experience with my X-Flow: Check the connections to the alternator. The spade connectors can be loose and in my case the indicators and horn would only work at idle. It had been that way for years for the previous owner. I discovered that one of the spade connectors was loose. I tightened it and presto, problem gone permanently. Check the connections at the fuse box and how well the fuses are held. Good luck! Anker

Are the throttle bodies balanced?

So a "stupid" question: How do I fill the tank completely without spilling gas? If I just insert the nozzle and run it at full clip I only get a 3/4 full tank before it shuts off. If I want to fill the tank completely I have to reduce the flow by a lot and hold the nozzle so the end is as high as it can go. And then I often spill a bit down the back. It would be great if there was an adapter that fit into the inlet that would deal with this issue!

The cam pulleys are correspondingly larger and the cams are further apart!

Hah! I found the problem. Not at all what I suspected. I blew out all passages and jets, but no improvement. Then I got it running as well as I could, still popping and not running evenly. I then started pulling spark plug leads. The engine idled with the #1 and #2 cylinder leads pulled but quit when either #3 or #4 were. That cause a light bulb to go on, so I checked the balance of the two carbs. Bingo - #1 and #2 were pulling 5 and #3 and #4 were pulling 7. Got them balanced and the problem was fixed. So what was happening was that the butterfly valves on #1 and #2 we

Thanks for the suggestions, Henry! I'll keep them in mind.