Jump to content

Pokey

Registered User
  • Posts

    415
  • Joined

Everything posted by Pokey

  1. I'll start small and if you want more just ask. Supplies: The (2) M10 x 60mm w/ washer and nuts from your rollover bar The (2) M10 x 20mm caphead bolts from your rollover bar Two (4) M10 x 16mm bolts. I sourced mine from McMaster https://www.mcmaster.com/nav/enter.asp?partnum=98093A610 5/32 x 47 rivets to replace however many you choose to remove from the interior door panel Waxoyl if you are that kind of guy Tape and towels to protect bodywork Black silicone sealant if conturing the sill protectors rather than replacing -or- Catherham's shortened sill protectors for cars outfitted with a cage Tools: See the picture of most of what was involved Rivet gun Assorted socket and box wrenches You might need a ratchet strap to aid in the fit into the rear mounting brackets Something like an engine crane to hold the cage while working (picture) Steps: Put the rear of the car on stands and remove the rear wheels and shocks Remove the rollover bar Remove the sill protectors if replacing with the shortened versions, or loose-fit the cage to mark where to cut the sill protectors I'm assuming you have carbon fiber sill protectors If removing be aware that in addition to the rivets there is a very tough rubber adhesive to overcome There is a very real possibility of breaking the sill protector during the process I had my best success using a box cutter and patiently scoring rather than sawing or grinding (pictures) Gently pry back the door panel to locate the interior chassis boss and locate its position on the panel I estimated the position and used a punch to check alignment, adjusting as needed before making my final punch to drill Drill the door panel, enlarging the hole using step bits, and then debur Run a punch through the hole in the door panel and the interior and exterior chassis bosses to mark where to drill the skin Drill the skin as you did the door panel Install the cage Leave all bolts loose until all are installed, then torque to spec Fit is determined by your chassis and cage so I can't tell you in advance what you might need to do I would fit the two bolts that go up and into the verticals of the cage first, but leave loose The left (driver side) rear chassis bracket needed to have both holes elongated, and even then it took creative work with a ratchet strap to make fit Only one of the four front bolts aligned without modification - the other three bracket holes needed further elongation Be aware that the above steps make it sound like it was a measure twice and cut once operation, whereas in reality placed and lifted the cage dozens of times while aligning If you cut the sill protector in situ then a little black silicone sealant provides a nice optional finish (picture) Note that clearance between the windscreen is minimal, likely contacting in some places I've run foam tape across the top of the windscreen but only time will tell if this is a good solution My plan (hope) is to attach the rearview mirror to the cage to minimize vibration and to allow for easier swaps between the windscreen and aeroscreen, but that clearance is an issue Reinstall the shocks and wheels
  2. Here are the weights of Caterham's SV Track Day Roll Bar and Track Day Rollcage measured during a recent swap: 18.2 lb / 8.3 kg for the Roll Bar 26.6 lb / 12.1 kb for the Rollcage Difference between the two is 8.4 lb or 3.8 kg. The swap was straightforward but difficult as the cage's mount points didn't align well with the chassis, and the carbon fiber sill protectors must be shortened or replaced. If there is interest I'll be happy to elaborate, but my advice is only do this if you truly feel you need the cage. I'm selling the dedicated track car so felt replacing the roll bar with a cage made sense for me, but it wasn't long in the process before I was thinking about just keeping the track car.
  3. Check your inbox, I sent a message you can respond to yesterday.
  4. Hi there. John C. just gave you the ability to message. Feel free to respond to the message I just sent you.
  5. JFYI for those who might be interested, I've started advertising the car outside of USA7's for $26K.
  6. Faster. I never drove the car with the fast rack, but on a road course I can't image needing anything faster than the normal ratio.
  7. That is the minimum weight including driver for the class. I would run more fuel than necessary to avoid coming in under weight. One of the advantages of having a larger fuel cell. I have the original rack but have no idea what the ratio is. For what it is worth, on a road course the current rack seems plenty quick.
  8. Thanks @pethier, I've spent a whole lot more on the car for sure!
  9. No problem @CarlB, I added the document to the Google Drive folder with the photos.
  10. I'm so sorry to those of you that asked for the price. No idea what happened but I missed the posts at the time. My goal is to part with the car this spring, so will sell for $24K here if the buyer makes it simple.
  11. This 2003 Caterham Super 7 race car was imported as an SCCA E-Production model as part of a SCCA homologation program. This program was created in the early 2000’s by Jon Nelson with Caterham USA and Jez Coates with Caterham UK. The number of cars imported under the program is unknown, but several dealers participated, including George Alderman (Delaware), Chip Bond (Virginia) and Jeff Sloan (Texas). This car is thought to have been imported by Alderman’s Delaware dealership. Homologated models were configured with an imperial S3 chassis, 147bhp Zetec, 6-speed Caterham gearbox, limited slip differential, Watts linkage supporting the De Deon rear suspension, 250# front and 215# rear springs with nonadjustable Bilstein dampers, 10-inch AP Racing rear discs, cantilevered slick tires, clamshell front wings, and a fire suppression system. After racing in SCCA the car was acquired by Beachman-McClure Racing for racing in NASA. During this period several changes were made: · The homologated Zetec motor was swapped with a Zetec SVT · The homologated roll cage was replaced with the current tall cage with side intrusion NASCAR style bars · The homologated fuel cell was replaced with a 21-gallon fuel cell for endurance racing · A jack point was brazed to the rear suspension for use with a quick-jack style jack · A brake bias (proportioning) valve was added · The clamshells front wings were replaced with cycle wings · PIAA night race lights were added (since removed but wiring remains) · MOMO quick release hub and “formula” style steering wheel replaced the Caterham setup · The OEM SVT oil pan was replaced with a Raceline wet sump · And an Accusump was added for extra oiling protection The car is best known for placing third overall in the 25 Hours of Thunderhill in 2009 behind two Porsche Cup cars and in front of a third (https://beachman-mcclureracing.blogspot.com). Beachman-McClure Racing sold the car in 2013 to the prior owner before the current owner purchased in 2022. Under the prior owner the fuel bladder and hoses were replaced in 2017, and a short block Zetec SVT engine swap was performed in 2019 (see attached dyno report). The original Zetec SVT engine is included in the sale. In preparation for the 2022 sale the prior owner had Rocky Mountain Caterham go through the car replacing worn and damaged parts: · The 22% “fast” steering rack was replaced with a new 8% rack and rod ends · The A-frame was replaced as the existing A-frame was binding · The front dampers and springs were replaced with new Bilstein dampers and new 250# springs · The rear dampers were replaced with new Bilstein dampers and 215# springs reused · The brake rotors, pads and fluid were replaced · The radiator was replaced as were the coolant hoses · The nosecone, front wings and wing stays, and rear wings were replaced · The Momo containment seat seen in historical pictures was replaced with a Caterham GRP seat (same as used for Caterham Academy racing) · And a new Sabelt six-point harness good until 2028 was installed Rocky Mountain Caterham also set up the suspension, using 2-2-2 for the A-arms and corner weighting (see attached suspension setup sheet). Under current ownership the following noteworthy changes and maintenance were done: · A Quickcar Racing Products ignition panel was added · The Accusump valve was replaced with an electric valve and a cutoff switch added to the ignition panel · A switch was added to the ignition panel for the return-type fuel pump circuit · An older MYLAPS TR2 not requiring a subscription was hardwired to the ignition circuit · Connection points were added for an AiM data logger · The front upper ball joints were replaced with Jack Webb Motorsports heim joints for easy camber adjustment and wing stay removal · The clutch slave cylinder was replaced, and a Caterham clutch pedal stop added · The transmission and differential fluid were replaced · And Avon ZZS tires (dated 2019) mounted to Panasport 13” wheels This Seven was raced by the current owner during the 2022, 2023 and 2024 seasons in the Caterham Cup Class of the ICSCC series, and the ICSCC/Northwest Motorsports Vintage Racing Nostalgic Series. These cars are very light and inexpensive to operate. Brakes and tires can easily last a season, even more if not heavily campaigned. And as can be seen in the picture gallery, it fits comfortably in a 7x14 cargo trailer. Note that this is a race car, it is not street legal and not titled. It also has its share of race patina including wrinkled aluminum skin where Bill the Cat now resides. You can find pictures at: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1WislJ68m6ZyRfUvyBhLYggICPjqC_1f1?usp=sharing And videos at: https://youtu.be/tS1MktpApo0 https://youtu.be/9cP40IjVlcE https://youtu.be/umUFj9Twxbo https://youtu.be/rc9OyipTHLc https://youtu.be/U2wJ-8gsa_0 https://youtu.be/br4zSdk5lXA https://youtu.be/jP_GmbI3X9Y
  12. Below are some of the things I try to remember. Everyone’s list will be a little different, but I imagine most will include a chair and tire pressure gauge. Have fun! Chair Water Hat Sunblock Sunglasses Visor cleaner Large towel to lie on Paper towels and rags Hand cleaner Oil Tools Floor jack and jack stands Air tank Spare wheels Safety wire Tape Jump box Tire pressure gauge
  13. Have you considered splicing to create enough length to make the connections before the transmission is tucked into the tunnel?
  14. Thanks Mike, I've added the bit about the transmission, differential and the Cup cars. No idea how to address the fit though. I'm 5'10" and 165# and fit fine, and other than elbow room don't notice a difference between the S3 and SV presumably because the seats are the same size. I guess my size 11 feet notice too.
  15. Really good point @joe7, I should get ahead of the questions as sometimes the BaT peanut gallery gets carried away with speculations. I'll get a picture of the dates stamped on the tires and on the fuel cell.
  16. I'm already guilty of taking a video with not so great sound, so good point @Outbound. Classic though, I jabbed the throttle on a hill up to our house and my hat flew off. The video is great but the sound is, well, disappointing.
  17. Thanks @Croc, I'll take a picture of the gauge on the fire extinguisher and get one of the Accusump's gauge too. I should probably mention in the ad that I raced the car sporadically so it has gone through the annual technical inspection process.
  18. Thanks @Kitcat. I'll add the MOMO quick release steering wheel and fire suppression. The fuel pump has a separate switch too rather than operate using the ignition, and there is also a transponder. While it may be possible to license for street use, that would require a title which this car does not have. If I had the Manufacturer Statement of Origin like what Caterham provides now with the kits we import then it could be done in Washington State, but I've no idea what the rules are for other states. In either case, I'm selling as a track/race car only as I really don't like dealing with bureaucracy.
  19. Thanks Steve, appreciate the review and response.
  20. I know some on this forum are familiar with a car I'm preparing to list on BaT as it was owned and tracked by @Kitcat, so I'm hoping to enlist help in making sure what I've written for BaT is accurate and complete. Any comments or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Here we go: This 2003 Caterham Super 7 race car was imported as an SCCA E-Production model as part of a SCCA homologation program. This program was created in the early 2000’s by Jon Nelson with Caterham USA and Jez Coates with Caterham UK. The number of cars imported under the program is unknown, but several dealers participated, including George Alderman (Delaware), Chip Lamb (Virginia) and Jeff Sloan (Texas). This car is thought to have been imported by Alderman’s Delaware dealership. Homologated models were configured with an imperial S3 chassis, 147bhp Zetec, Watts linkage supporting the De Deon rear suspension, 250# front and 215# rear springs with nonadjustable Bilstein dampers, 10-inch AP Racing rear discs, clamshell front wings, and cantilevered slick tires. After racing in SCCA the car was acquired by Beachman-McClure Racing and modified for NASA racing. During this period several changes were made: · The homologated Zetec motor was swapped with a Zetec SVT · The homologated roll cage was replaced with the current tall cage with side intrusion NASCAR style bars · The homologated fuel cell was replaced with a 21-gallon fuel cell for endurance racing · A jack point was brazed to the rear suspension for use with a quick-jack style jack · A brake bias (proportioning) valve was added · The clamshells front wings were replaced with cycle wings · PIAA night race lights were added (since removed but wiring remains) · The OEM SVT oil pan was replaced with a Raceline wet sump · And an Accusump was added for extra oiling protection The car is best known for placing third overall in the 25 Hours of Thunderhill in 2009 (https://beachman-mcclureracing.blogspot.com). Beachman-McClure Racing sold the car in 2013 to the prior owner before the current owner purchased in 2022. Under the prior owner the fuel bladder and hoses were replaced in 2017, and a short block Zetec SVT engine swap was performed in 2019 (see attached dyno report). The original Zetec SVT engine is included in the sale. In preparation for the 2022 sale the prior owner had Rocky Mountain Caterham go through the car replacing worn and damaged parts: · The 22% “fast” steering rack was replaced with a new 8% rack and rod ends · The A-frame was replaced as the existing A-frame was binding · The front dampers and springs were replaced with new Bilstein dampers and new 250# springs · The rear dampers were replaced with new Bilstein dampers and 215# springs reused · The brake rotors, pads and fluid were replaced · The radiator was replaced as were the coolant hoses · The nosecone, front wings and wing stays, and rear wings were replaced · The Momo containment seat seen in historical pictures was replaced with a Caterham GRP seat (same as used for Caterham Academy racing) · And a new Sabelt six-point harness good until 2028 was installed Rocky Mountain Caterham also set up the suspension, using 2-2-2 for the A-arms and corner weighting (see attached suspension setup sheet). Under current ownership the following noteworthy changes and maintenance were done: · The Accusump valve was replaced with an electric valve and cutoff switch · The front upper ball joints were replaced with Jack Webb Motorsports heim joints for easy camber adjustment and wing stay removal · A Quickcar Racing Products ignition panel was added · The transmission and differential fluid were replaced · The clutch slave cylinder was replaced, and a Caterham clutch pedal stop added · And connection points were added for an AiM data logger
  21. Assuming that isn't the solution, I'd try moving the harness around while idling, particularly the connectors that lead to the injectors and the coils. Different car and different symptom, but I chased random and intermittent stumbling that was caused by a bad pin in one of those connectors.
  22. Might just be one screw, can't recall, but, yes, make sure it is secure.
  23. But is the sensor itself in there nice and tight, or has it backed out a bit?
×
×
  • Create New...