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KnifeySpoony

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Posts posted by KnifeySpoony

  1. TBH I take Matt's opinions with a large grain of salt - I consider him opinionated but not necessarily an expert. However I can see why someone would say that with a stiffly sprung 7 on bad roads. The high unsprung to sprung mass ratio in the rear, as well as sitting so close to the rear axle makes you feel the bumps in the rear in a very different way. He later drove a 360 in the US and had no complaints. Probably smoother road and/or softer springs.

  2. I wish we had hard numbers on the actual steering ratios (on our cars and other cars). The percentage increase above whatever the original s3 ratio was is not really that helpful. Also, turns lock to lock is not a useful metric either, as it doesn't take into account the total steering angle available, so is somewhat meaningless on its own. My car does not have much available lock, so the ratio may not be as quick as the low "lock to lock" number would suggest.

     

  3. The TPS is reused from the plenum to the RBTB setup. Although it wouldn't hurt to have a spare, as i believe they are prone to failure.

     

    Another thing - last I heard, CC is still shipping the RBTB kit with the green R500 injectors- however these are incorrect, at least they were on my car. The new RBTB tune is designed to be used with the stock black injectors.

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  4. Which type of seats were you planning on speccing? If you do the Tilletts, the SV has a wider seat which may be necessary if you have wide hips. I am 6'1" and thin but I barely fit in the S3-sized tillett's. If you do the leather seats, then you will have more space. Another consideration is pedal spacing. S3 pedal box is comically narrow and requires small feet or racing shoes. If you want to drive in sneakers, then SV would be more flexible. 

  5. At your size I think you would best fit in an S3 with standard floors. Personally, I wouldn't go SV unless I needed the boot space or fuel capacity. But I agree a test fit in various cars will tell you what you need to know. Hopefully there will be someone in your neck of the woods.

     

  6. I know of some reputable tuners but they mostly do Honda stuff, and most don't use easimap (hondata and emerald I think), though I don't know if that really matters tbh. The ultimate duratec engine builder/tuner (nationally AFAIK) is Hasselgren up in Berkeley (builds for formula Atlantic), but I dunno if he does "lower end" tuning or has a chassis dyno. And his rate might be insane. I would reach out to him though. 

  7. The voltage can be measured either at the back of the TPS connector or through easimap. When I first built my car I did not have easimap and set the 4.62V via multimeter at TPS. I have since adjusted it multiple times via easimap, which is infinitely easier. I have never measured back to back from plug to easimap to see how close the numbers correlate. I forget what voltage it is at WOT.

  8. Yep if your dips are correct, but it's still misreading, it may be something with the tune - however you could try other dip settings to compensate? During my initial build/shakedown I was able to reflash multiple times myself until all issues got sorted. No sure if you're sending it out for updates or doing it yourself. 

     

    I'm not sure about the throttle site - I never paid attention to it. I just set the idle voltage to 4.62 per my setup instructions. Not sure with your different ECU.

     

  9. The entire "ribbed" ring is the "nut" that holds the gauge up against the dash. Just rotate it and it will unscrew.

     

    Based on a tickle of the throttle solving your idle, I would adjust your TPS in the appropriate direction to mimic that at idle throttle position, rather than actually opening up the barrels more at idle. 

     

    Have you run it to redline at WOT? The sound from the intake is really something else.

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