pethier

What? You have to renew every five years? Collector plates in Minnesota are good forever. And we cCAN drive Collector cars for pleasure. One must have a regularly-licensed vehicle. Driving your collector car to work every day won't skate. The general idea seems to be that any trip is primarily about the car. I don't think I'm likely to be tagged for dropping off at Menards for a few nuts and bolts on the way home from a blatt. One bonus to Collector Plates is that if you pony up the extra hundred bucks for a vanity Collector plate, you never have to pay that personalization fee again. I got my 74PHIL plates (yeah, two plates, even though I am not required to display a front plate) in 2008. I sold that Caterham to Cape Cod, so the plates stayed with me. If I sold to a Minnesota buyer, I would have had the rights to insist on keeping the plates if I wanted to, but that would lessen the value of the car since the Minnesota buyer would need to pay plate fees. When bought a Caterham from Illinois, I paid Minnesota about 218 bucks to register the car with the same plates I'd owned since 2008. No plate fee. No personalization fee. No requirement to buy tabs or replace the plates ever. I recently bought a Birkin. It was already registered as a Minnesota Collector car with State-issued plate number. i didn't spring for personalization, so I did not need to pay plate fees. It did come to me with two plates. For a collector car you need to ask them for two plates, or they will only issue one. If I sell the car to a Minnesotan, the plates will go with it, as their number has nothing special about it My Cayman is not a Collector car. It cost me a bundle to register it after I bought it in Iowa. I ponied up the hundred bucks for rights to put KMAN 27 on the plate (the decimal point is unofficial) and I will have to pay that personalization fee and a plate fee every seven years. I need to pay for tabs every year. I need to display plates both front and rear, which is fine with me, as I want the car to NOT look exactly like a 911 from the front.

Fixed that.

Possibly about 140 MPH, but not with me in it.

I call it a Seven. (That's easy to remember, since I have both a Caterham and a Birkin at the moment.) After that, it is a question of to whom I am talking and the circumstances in which I am asked. My brain wiring (yeah, I've been diagnosed) allows me to jabber on and on to fill any space.

Close. But no cigar.

The apparent changes at Hoosier are confusing to me. I stopped using Hoosiers because I could not heat them in autocrossing except at practice days. And that was on a car heavier than a Seven. I switched Yokohama A052 tires because they start working at ambient temperature. It was a no-brainer to start with the Yokos when I get a Seven again. Sorry my input is not a lot of help to you all in your racing sport. You might give the Yokos a chance though. They are DOT legal and have a treadwear rating of 200. I run them on the street also.

I'm confused. My understanding of Hoosier "sorta street" DOT tires when I used them on my Elise was that the A7 was the softer tire and the R7 the harder. The idea was that on cars of more-typical weights than our sevens and Elise cars, the A tires were for autocross and the R tires for racing. Even for track use on a well-set-up Elise, the A7 was always preferred. So has Hoosier changed the long-standing pattern of the A and R designations?

A pair of Race Ramps solves that problem.

No, I don't need this large a trailer or a left door for a Seven, but this one has also served for a Cayman, Stag, Corvette, Elise, and even a very-short trip with a full-size Chevrolet. https://www.flickr.com/photos/pethier/54792902149/in/dateposted/

Did you really mean to post this in a thread about headlight conversions?

The problem I see on my Caterham is that the stainless guards are very good, but do not go high enough.

Please not diamond plate. It would look horrible and not be any more effective than flat.

I believe that in the context of headlight patterns "drive" and "traffic" are opposite terms. The United Kingdom has left-hand-traffic. Most of the cars you will encounter there have right-hand-drive. The United States of America has right-hand-traffic. Most of the cars you will encounter there have left-hand-drive. There are in the USA some locations where the traffic engineers intentionally direct cars to flip for a short distance to left-hand-traffic. They are apparently not overly-concerned that the low-beam headlight patterns of most cars will be incorrect for these short distances. Presently, one of my Sevens is a Caterham which has spent most of its life in Northwich UK. I am very unlikely to ever drive it outside of the USA and Canada. Its low-beam headlight patterns are now therefore incorrect for its environment. I am going to go to a local Toyota dealer and see if I can obtain this 81110-60P70 kit.

Let's take this to private mail.

I just bought a Birkin. It has long/sweep/clamshell fenders on it, but the seller did give me the cycle fenders he had. He claimed that they were with the car when he bought it, but that he never got the brackets to mount the cycle fenders to the uprights. These cycle fenders appear to have the same BRG paint as the car. Since the current setup requires the air cleaners to be removed to take off the hood, I think I might want to try cycle fenders on this car. What this all has to do with this thread: I have taken pictures of the style mounts that are on these cycle fenders. They appear better than the ones which were breaking for the author of this thread. I wonder what you all think of them compared to the upgraded ones shown elsewhere in this thead.