mrmustang

2 hours ago, Vovchandr said:

 

Gotcha. For what it's worth I'm not entirely sure Pectel even does open loop vs closed loop. It might but I haven't found it and my car runs the same with upstream O2 as y does without it. 

 

With that said I still replaced mine with a new unit while troubleshooting. 

 

@catsv7 is knowledgeable on this matter and might have an insight. 

 

I thought it was best to play it safe given how carboned up the plugs and older, already replaced oxygen sensor was. No cold idle set up on the car, #3 throttle plate rattles a bit, and is set slightly open so it starts I assume, no real pull from 1,2,4 until throttle is given and their respective throttle plates open. Going to need someone to sit in the car and work the throttle so I can take measurements to try and balance them. I did air up the 5 year old Pirelli cinturato tires this AM (11-12.5lbs cold) to 26psi and went for a nice 5 mile loop. Car ran great, my next step is to take it out again for a longer drive and to top off the tank with some 93 octane, maybe some throttle/engine cleaner additive just to try and clean out the rest of the combustion chamber.

Bill

2 hours ago, MV8 said:

Somebody put the wrong part in the right bag (very common). That gm part number (25312178) would have a female connector. Most 93-95 cadillacs use this O2.

Sadly, I have two identical from that seller, both in sealed factory bags. I'll swing by the local Chevy dealer and talk to their parts guy.

Thanks for the sanity check.

Bill

47 minutes ago, Vovchandr said:

You have the plug on the left? Slightly unusual if so. 

 

Glad to hear it's being sorted out. 

 

Very amused to hear you talk about win10 as old. I only recently updated to win10 on my main desktop. In meantime my Pectel runs on win98..

Yes, I have the female plug on the left, the one shown was clearly wired incorrectly as one wire was burned completely through it's sheathing, thankfully this was in a pile of spare parts in the travel box, and not something I then needed to deal with.

Win 10, while not yet outdated, is a few revs down, so in my mind, old. Any laptop (this one 8+ years old) that cannot run Win 11 is old. 3 gig of ram, and AMD chip set, yeah, old and outdated, but should work for what I need.

Bill

2 hours ago, slowdude said:

 

What ECU are you running?

 

Revilla on the UK forums did a few schematics a while back with the wiring and parts numbers. I'll try to find it. I may have uploaded it into the documents.

 

Great follow so far. Might be worth migrating to a build thread.

Pectel T2

On 1/16/2025 at 9:34 AM, speedwagon said:

I am following this topic as I have an old haltech (e6ex i think) that uses ms dos, and I haven't established the windows 10 will get the job done.  Thanks to all here as for me every day is a learning experience.

Wanted to follow up on this, spent a few days blowing the dust off an older Win 10 laptop with a serial port, updating software that is at least 2-4 years old took two days all by itself. I have parts incoming for the cable I need, and have downloaded an older version of DescProW software that was suggested from someone on the Cosworth support forum. I was able to get it to open in "offline" mode on my Win 11 (H2) box, but it has no serial port, hence my decision to resurrect the old Win 10 laptop, will check online mode once I have the parts needed for this interface.

Bill

PS: I miss radio shack

1 hour ago, Road Ready said:

I changed the oil in my 7, with new filter. 

 

How long should it run to achieve oil pressure?

 

My son did it last; what's normal?

 

John

Did you add any oil to the filter when you changed it? I typically will fill it 1/3rd, that way it does not leak out when I install it on the side of the block.

Bill

Ok, 6pm yesterday, the oxygen sensor arrived, an AC Delco AFS-73 per the notes I have in the files, sadly the sensor came in with a female plug on it instead of a male plug, forcing me to use one of the used spares found in the travel box as a substitute/donor to use the female plug. Wired up, soldered together, and installed, I set the car down on the ground, installed the cut off switch, and turned the car over. First attempt was a fail, car sputtered, caught, then died. Cycled key and tried again, this time the car caught, sputtered to life, and stayed running. Let run for a minute before attempting to add a little throttle, which immediately caused the car to stall. Cycled key again, motor caught and continued to run. This time allowed the car to warm up until the temp gauge showed movement. A quick throttle jab with my arm (car still in the air at this time) in the footbox caused the engine to rev accordingly......Shut the car down, took it off the ramps/jack stands, removed the doors and backed the car out of the garage for the first time in weeks. A quick half lap of the neighborhood and the car was running well, no pops, no hesitation which made me a little more comfortable and I took two full laps (1.1 miles each) cycling through the first three gears without any issues. Pulled back in to back the car into the garage, felt the clutch drag a bit with the car in reverse and the pedal to the floor, popped the car out of gear and proceeded to give the pedal a few pumps which took care of this. However, makes me think I either have some air in the system, or a master or slave is possibly going out. Worse case scenario is a clutch replacement, but seeing how cleanly the clutch worked in the first 3 forward gears, I'm not inclined to tear into them just yet.

Thoughts?

As for the oxygen sensor, does anyone have a correct part number for a sensor that would have the female plug installed, I'm confident on my soldering skills, but would still prefer one that was not messed with.

Female plug on left

And of course, if there is no picture, it didn't happen

Thanks for following along.

Bill

1 minute ago, CharlesG said:

Even more amazing is that it was done in California.

If followed to the letter California's "SB100" is the key. With the SPCN 0000 and no year listed on the title, this is exactly how they got the car legally titled.

Bill

Finally had time to watch the whole video this AM, what a great way to spend a rainy morning.

Bill

10 hours ago, jbcollier said:

I like to run an oil pressure gauge and an oil warning light.  You may not notice a suddenly lowering oil pressure gauge until it's too late.  This?  This you will notice...

 

 

(from my Lotus Europa)

I did order a low pressure switch over the weekend that I can always install in that spot, just not likely to do so at this time.

Thanks

Bill

17 minutes ago, Timothy Keith-Lucas said:

So, basically, the new owner visited DMV and claimed a wildly inaccurate date of manufacture, and DMV, never having seen a Caterham or the weird VIN on it, thusly unable to challenge the claim, goes with the flow?  Hmmmmm.

No, you misunderstood what I posted, if a VIN format from another Caterham is already in the system, whether it was from coming in to the state from another, or working off the MSO/MCO as new, the computer system (early computers were very rudimentary at best) defaults to that format as well. If nothing is in the system, generally speaking, the paperwork was sent to that states "special titles division", which would then make calls to other state(s) DMV/MVS offices to see if they have come across such a car in their past (remember phones where the lifeline of every company before the internet), or dissected the MCO/MSO/previous title until they could make it work in their system.

I've told the story elsewhere of being at a West Palm Beach Barrett Jackson auction in the 90's and buying an early RHD Series 1 Lotus 7 (Kent motor powered with two weber carbs) being sold as a kit car because the word "kit" was notated on a certain west coast state title (ca), but it had the correct VIN on the title as well. $1,300 for the car, $520 for enclosed shipping from Florida to NJ. The deal of the century at that time......Took me 6 months of working with the NJ special titles division (still in the same office on State Street today) to get the word "kit" removed from the title..........Today I'm less likely to rock the boat, and I'm just happy to have my 2003 SV titled here in SC.

Bill

Up until the early 2K's, most states would use whatever came close in their system VIN wise. If someone titled their car as a 1960, 1965, 1970, etc using their cars VIN, and the basic VIN dynamics was already in the system, that is what they defaulted to. Some states, in the case of my 2003, did not have a Caterham style VIN in their system to work with, and issued their own state VIN tag to supersede the factory issued VIN. Both are now on the car, I'm not likely to rock the boat to get it retitled under the original VIN.

Now, that is not to say others have used an earlier year designation to circumvent paying higher personal property taxes that quite a few states collect on vehicles, motorcycles, and boats (SC being one of them).

Bill

Everything is here and installed but the new oxygen sensor, part came in to the local store, when I saw the bottom of the box was all taped up I insisted they open it up, good thing, as there was a beautiful, highly carboned, beat up and quite used oxygen sensor inside. Sigh, ordered a pair (one as a spare) on Ebay, still new in their packaging, should have them Wednesday or Thursday if I'm lucky. Then it's time to fire the car and see where we stand.

Bill

PS: Before you say use the one that is currently installed, I would, but the wires have been cut and spliced one too many times for my tastes.

1 hour ago, MV8 said:

I expect it opens above 5 or so psi and grounds a light on the dash that is powered (key in run ) off the normal instrumentation. The larger one is a sender/sensor for the oil pressure gauge and has a resistance that varies with pressure. I expect it is either 1/4-18 or 19 or  1/8-27 or 28.

 

For a car that does not have ecm control of the fuel system, it could also be replaced with a switch that closes with a few psi to control a fuel pump relay, with a small momentary (like a tiny horn button) to prime the system if needed when cranking cold.

1/4" 18 pipe thread, not British thread on the adapter that screws directly into the block, the adapter was a 10mm 1 thread style. I've got my oil/gas pipe dope (what OEM's use for sensors and such) drying on the threads of the new plug for an hour, and will then install it in the block, let it sit overnight, and fire it up to check for potential leaks.

Bill

Time Machine is out of stock, but has some "on the water", I've got dibs on #1.

In the mean time, I bought an inexpensive stretch cover from "shopforcovers", it stretches to fit, but is not the best quality (shipped out of the Netherlands)

Bill

1 hour ago, JohnCh said:

Is it possible it's a low oil pressure switch to trigger a dash light?

Absolutely possible, however, without any spare wires other then the engine harness itself, I'm stumped. Part number is HPS (high pressure switch) then 2155 or 2165 .  Saw that it was screwed into an adapter, which was then screwed into the billet distribution block, just pulled and cleaned that and will be headed off to Ace first, if no luck there, then Grainger on Monday. Thinking just a simple plug will do at this point will do. Not certain I'll pull the dash and start chasing wires, maybe if I lose sleep over it I'll dive in, but not likely.

Bill

2 hours ago, MV8 said:

You can purchase a thread gauge (one is included with most tap and die sets but it would be for metric or sae, usually not both) or take the removed switch to the hardware store, then find a bolt where the threads mesh. They may have a thread gauge checker hanging on the wall. Armed with the thread pitch, rough measurement of the od will get you the plug size.

 

On second thought, these are usually pipe thread, so I expect it is probably 1/8" and BSPT versus NPT. They look interchangeable and will screw into a hole but they won't seal even with tape.

I'll try to get out today, believe it was an oil pressure sender as I got a drop or two of oil out as I removed it. Clearly it has been replaced by the silver pressure sender above it, so now the hunt for a proper plug will commence.

Just now, MV8 said:

Those look like oil pressure switches on a remote manifold.

Any idea what size thread they are on, since there is no wire for the circled switch, I'd like to remove it from under the hood (bonnet).

Bill

New high impedance injectors are installed

Tomorrow plugs, wires, coil

Then will fire up and see how it goes.

Wish me luck

Bill

Have the following mystery switch (no spare wire to be found), believe maybe it is a low pressure brake light switch ?????

Can someone identify for me so I can dig into the wiring diagram to see what wire should be hooked up to it. Or the part number I need to replace it....

Thanks in advance,

Bill

Oil and oil filter change done. Oil filter was found to be not that old (a K&N unit, not even finger tight), but the oil appeared quite dark, and may not have been of a synthetic blend. 5 quarts of synthetic Valvoline "advanced" 5W 20 oil and we are good to go. Brake and clutch fluids have been flushed, they were clean and clear, but at least now I know when it was last done. Filled the overflow tank of the radiator half way, but have not run the car long enough to open the thermostat to see if I'll need more or not. Really don't want to run the car till I change the injectors, plugs, wires and coil at this point. Hoping that everything else starts to trickle in to the local post office today, as I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel in regards to the baseline.

Bill

Just a quick update as I had an hour of free time this early afternoon and I'm proud to say the original Delphi FF52 fuel filter, with it's June 2002 date code has now been excised from the car. Both the previously mentioned  Fram G3727 and the ACDelco GF952 are within a 1/16th of an inch difference in length, I decided on the FRAM G3727 as it appears to be a better built unit of the two, I'll hold on to the other just so I have a back up in the garage. Pressurized the system found no leaks, and fired the car up on the second turn of the key. I'm now waiting on the new Motorcraft SP463 Plugs to be gaped at .050 per Tom (1turbofocus) the high impedance 30lb/hr injectors, and the MSD coil and wire set. If I get time tomorrow I'll do the oil and oil filter change while I wait for everything else to arrive...Then dive in to the rest in short order and hopefully be able to take the car around the block and further.

Thanks to all who have assisted so far.

Bill

57 minutes ago, MV8 said:

If you saying the pump runs as soon as the battery is connected but with the key off, then it sounds like the CAT sourced T2 is configured for pump control but is miswired for power to the ecu or the pump. If the T2 had power all the time I expect you would not be able to shut it off with the key (ignition stays on as well). I'd pull the pump relay and see if the pump still runs and do the same with just the fuse pulled. If it stops, trace from the relay to power and ground on the relay control terminals. The fuse socket should not be shorted to more than one terminal of the relay socket. 

Maybe I misspoke, the pump cycles when the power (IE: cut off) is turned on, but kicks off 5-10 seconds later, car turns off normally with the regular key. Pump does not continuously run. I'll start with the basics you laid out hopefully next week, once all the parts have arrived (tuesday/wednesday time frame)..Until then the car remains stagnant, unless I get motivated to do the oil and oil filter before then.

Bill

25 minutes ago, CarlB said:

The Pactel ECU is still used in the SCCA formula continental cars. These cars use a modified Zetec engine. Engine builders who build these engines might be a source. You might try Quicksilver Race Engines (301-698-9009)

Thanks, I'll give them a call

2 hours ago, MV8 said:

He has not. The source of the T2 and the programming have not been shown. These are programmable outputs. If you look at a Pectel pinout for the T2, it clearly states "high impedance only" with the pins in your diagram listed as fuel control being programmable outputs. Fuel pump control is not the default from Pectel, so if the T2 is from CAT and programmed by CAT, and was part of the rover package, then it is likely to have the controls you've described.

 

 

 

 

The Pectel T2 was sourced after the car was pulled out of it's 20 foot Sealand style container here in the US from Caterham USA, along with the "stage 1" engine (I know this included a cam change, but have no clue as to what cam, or anything else that included for the 10K plus the original owner was charged), I have those general emails. The in tank fuel pump kicks in and builds pressure when the battery disconnect is turned on, then kicks off once pressure builds. I found this out yesterday when testing another battery cut off key I had in my toolbox from an old race car. It fit, and works, so that is one less thing I need to order as a back up. I have 30lb/hr high impedance fuel injectors on order, besides oil (5 quarts I believe for the Caterham wet sump pan) and an oil filter (I'll pick those up today), everything is on it's way. Now the only thing I do not have is a computer cable for the T2 to laptop, have no idea exactly what I need, can you assist with a part number or a supplier for this?

Appreciate everything you have offered this fellow Pectel T2 (amateur) owner.

Bill