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New guy. Here is my Cat


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For those curious, this is what the key is supposed to look like for the key fob

 

image.png.9b38795046acbde97799d271b43f8e8f.png

 

image.png.8afba7fcf3b0970255b3bbfc70c807e0.png

 

From everything I looked into the ONLY way to get it is with a new key cylinder. Doesn't come as a blank, nor does it come from a third party. I believe those might be made in house. 

 

STEERING COLUMN LOCK ALL CARS - Reference: 71247294D

 

As far as blanks for regular keys this is what I have

 

LMA LF10P

Interchange Part Number:

LF10P, 1006LPS21, P029, AA-3P, LF17-RH, LF19RP45, LF17P, AA3P, UP246, LW37P, PLF20, X157

 

SILCA RT2P

JMA LFRO

 

Fits the following

Land Rover: 109 (1984-1987), 110 (1984-1991), 88 (1984-1987), 90 (1985-1991), Santana (1985-1987)

Lotus: Esprit Coupe (1991-1994)

Maserati: Biturbo (1981-1985), Biturbo 244 (1986-1994), Biturbo 4.18-4.24 (1986-1994), Ghibli (1986-1994), Karif (1986-1994), Quattroporte (1976-1986), Shamal (1986-1994), Spider (1986-1994)

Rover: 2000, 2200, 2300, 2400 (1982-1985), 2000, 2200, 2300, 2600, 3500 (1976-1981), 2600, 3500 (1982-1985)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

It's a wrap!

 

Took far longer than expected and was quite a PITA but many hours later it's done. 

 

My one advice is if you ever plan on doing this is do it with engine out or have the header off if possible. 

 

All my runners are individual runners and even though I started to try to take them off I remembered it would actually be more work in the end for me to proceed with taking them off. 

 

Happy in the end. A LOT better than the old job that was falling apart and had had foil as I guess part of design. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rebuilt ITBs are finally back

 

 

Pretty much entirely rebuilt except face plate, venturi stacks and my IAC rail. New double springs throttle return, new FPR and all new components and actual manifold. 

 

Will hopefully tidy everything up next week and get to test it. 

 

 

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Outgassing of the new wrap was pretty serious. Had to quickly Google it to see that it's expected and normal. 

 

Got the car started. 

 

Good news. Rebuild FPR is at 40psi!

 

Bad news. sticky/Runaway throttle/rev hang issue is still present.

 

Quite disappointed that the rebuilt ITBs with the dual spring return and brand new throttle cable didn't resolve it. I'm sure it's something stupid too but I'm running out of ideas. Unfortunately it's not safe to drive in this condition. 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Vovchandr
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Can you do data logging with your ECU?  It would be interesting to see if the TPS position is changing as expected when this is happening or if anything wonky is showing with the air temp readings, air temp and AIC adjustment tables, or AFR.

 

-John   

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10 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

Can you do data logging with your ECU?  It would be interesting to see if the TPS position is changing as expected when this is happening or if anything wonky is showing with the air temp readings, air temp and AIC adjustment tables, or AFR.

 

-John   

 

I can try to datalog again. I had limited success in the past due to the dedicated 1998 computer that's required to run the software for Pectel. I recall I had success with live readings but not datalogging overall. 

 

I've just read through a 15 page thread of people with Omex ITB's on F20 motors in other 7's with a eerie similar issue of sticky throttle that they couldn't narrow down at all for multiple people

 

https://forum.wscc.co.uk/forum/topic/119831-megas-s2000-omex-throttle-bodies-throttle-cable/page/15/

 

One of the black holes I have in my troubleshooting is IAC and TPS. There was one post talking about the TPS Zero/auto zero and another as such

 

Quote

Perhaps the closed throttle TPS setting is too close to normal fully closed idle - assume you only get fuel shut off or retarded ignition when the TPS says the throttle is fully closed - could this threshold be adjusted or more retard applied at very low throttle openings in the rpm hang region?

 

 

I have unplugged the IAC at the sensor and unplugged the air lead entirely to see if it still sticks. It does

I have brand new throttle cable and shield for it to eliminate possibility of that causing hanging

It used to do it primarily warm/hot now it's doing it dead cold at startup.

 

I'll take the video tomorrow when I'm not waking up the neighbors with a loud revving 7 

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A couple of thoughts:

Did they stick at all on the bench? I suspect they didn't or you wouldn't have bolted 'em on :)!

 

Have you tried it w/o the throttle cable connected? If they are free then it seems like the cable is toast. Sometimes if exposed to heat the lined ones stick.

 

When it's revving up can you close the throttles to their stops by hand and get the idle under control?

 

It looks like you tried it with the IAC removed any more details there? If it's messed up (stuck open) it may cause the engine to rev up and behave like the throttles are open.

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