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65 Lotus Seven S2


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On 4/5/2021 at 5:50 AM, Croc said:

 

Don't jinx yourself!   I said that once until Christmas Eve 2020 in an Oregon logging town....it can be done  :classic_blink:

You make a good point.  It really isn't that hard to imagine the Lucas/Lotus gods causing a plague of generator issues with bravado like that!

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Made a rig to reinstall my coil springs.  Little by little getting things ready to get the Seven back together.

 

 

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These are what I believe to be the original 60s Armstrong dampers and springs, which all tested in spec.  The vice grips are just to keep the compression hooks from slipping down the coils.

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  • 1 month later...

While waiting on the engine boring to be completed, I talked myself into polishing up the aluminum... so prepped today by removing all the fiberglass.  Looks nekid!

 

 

IMG_20210605_161634.jpg

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Firsts efforts on the rear of the car - I figured if I didn't like the look it wouldn't be too visible with the spare in place.

In sequence are the before, after compounding with a 7.5" wool wheel and Nuvite IIF7, after polishing with the Cyclo and Nuvite IIF7, and after polishing with the Cyclos and Nuvite IIS.  As mentioned previously, this car was originally painted all over and scraped by a prior owner around 2008.  Deep scratches from the scraping along with other dings and imperfections from 55+ years of life won't be removable without major sanding (even if then), so I knew the result would be far from perfection - and debated a long time whether polishing would be an improvement over oxidized state or just highlight the flaws.  In the end, I'm pleased with the result and will continue on - though it is a laborious and dirty job!

 

 

 

rearbefore.jpg

rearpolish1.jpg

rearpolish2.jpg

rearpolish4.jpg

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20 hours ago, panamericano said:

Looks like the ghost of a tool box emerging from the boot.  Great job.  You can come strip mine any day.

Thanks, it was kind of fun to see more and more reflective detail.  My concern with polishing is that it may show fingerprints more than oxidized as I get in and out, remove/install the bonnet, etc.  I've had a recommendation from a detailer to use wheel coating designed for alu wheels to seal it, so may give that a try - if I find I'm having to polish or clean more frequently to keep it up, it will go back to the oxidized look quickly.  My intent is to spend more time using it and less time cleaning it!

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Hey Henry, that looks terrific! I’m sure it’s very time consuming, but it looks absolutely incredible. Been thinking about doing mine. Any tips?

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2 hours ago, Sportscarnut said:

Hey Henry, that looks terrific! I’m sure it’s very time consuming, but it looks absolutely incredible. Been thinking about doing mine. Any tips?

Thanks Chris!  I'm going to work on it a bit more this weekend, so let me get a bit more done before I start giving how-to advice... but I will say the guidance I was given on starting with a standard rotary polisher, 7.5" wool pad, and Nuvite IIF7 was spot-on.  With the size and depth of scratches in mine the Nuvite IIF9 (more aggressive) would probably have even been better, but to really remove them would require wet-sanding and my goal wasn't getting it to perfect - just to a good state of clean.  And because of the flaws, I could probably skip the final polish with the IIS.  I'll let you know how I get along this weekend.

 

The big test will be how it holds up to prints, etc. and how often it needs to be polished.  I've gotten a recommendation from Mike Phillips (autogeek detailing guru) to try Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Wheel Coating to seal the aluminum, so will be trying that in hopes that I can limit polishing to once a year.  I am told that polishing aluminum gets easier every time you do it, as the process helps "heal" aluminum.  I'm skeptical (and lazy), but we'll see.

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A dirty and sweaty Father's Day weekend, but satisfying nonetheless.  Polishing took a full 12 hours.  Still far from perfect, and the areas exposed to road rash are rougher than the rear, but fun to see it shine without the oxidization.  I still need to put the sealant on it, in hopes it will preserve the finish a little longer, but needed a break from wiping so finished the day by replacing the propshaft u-joints instead.  Progress. 

polishprep.jpg

polishafter1.jpg

polishafter3.jpg

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Looks great Henry! My body has too many dents/bruises (my 7 too) to count so removing them is not the goal maybe even feature those hard earned ones with the polished surfaces. I'll try some of the tips/products you have. Each one has a story wish I knew some of them.

Steve

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I would be concerned that the sealant would not appreciably prevent the aluminum from dulling, but would/could make a repolish substantially more difficult.

 

But I haven’t researched repolishing sealed aluminum, so could be way off base.

 

Steve

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4 hours ago, bball7754 said:

I would be concerned that the sealant would not appreciably prevent the aluminum from dulling, but would/could make a repolish substantially more difficult.

 

But I haven’t researched repolishing sealed aluminum, so could be way off base.

 

Steve

It is a bit of an experiment, for sure.  The recommendation came from a well-known car detailing guru, not because he has done a lot of aluminum work but he was sharing a recommendation from a colleague that does a lot of Harley Davidson work and that swears by it as the best solution he's found for the aluminum bits.  Note, this isn't a thick/hard/"permanent" coat type of sealant - rather a wipe on, much like using a ceramic sealant or even wax as a protective sealant on paint, so it will wear and when its is time to polish anything remaining will polish right off.

 

Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Wheel Coating (pinnaclewax.com) is the product that was recommended.

 

Logically it makes sense to me that a sealant should reduce oxidization (in addition to making waterless washes more effective) - but I do wonder how long it will last and whether it will wear evenly or unevenly.  I'm also a long way from an expert on this, so welcome any contrary thoughts, experience or advice!

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I tested the sealant on the hood, but it added a bit of cloudiness/haze, so I wiped it back off with mineral spirits and will just go bare.  I'm happy with how it looks, far from perfect but a big improvement.

 

Finally got my block back from boring and honing.  Getting paint on things and hoping to find time in the next few weeks to begin re-assembly.

 

 

 

 

blockandheadpainted.jpg

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54 minutes ago, anduril3019 said:

Mind if I ask what you used for the red? The color looks great!

POR-15 Engine Enamel, MG Maroon.  This is pretty close, I think, to the way the 1500 Cosworth engines were originally painted - or in the same color family, anyway.

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