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New battery installation


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Just installed a Deltran in the Birkin. My Braille finally gave up the ghost after 5 years. Nearly a third of the weight of the old Braille B-129 (3.2 vs 9.3 lbs) The only issue with installation is that the Deltran is slightly narrower at the base in both dimensions. This needs to be factored in in the mounting design.IMG_1333.jpgIMG_1334.jpg

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OK, here's a weird one. After installing the new battery, I did a couple of starts in the garage and everything worked as expected. With the engine running, it measured 13.2v across the posts, no change on acceleration. I fired it up this morning at 0620 for a run through the Santa Monica mountains and I started getting an intermittent alternator light once I was out on the road. I pulled over and checked all of the connections. I couldn't find anything amiss and as the voltmeter was indicating 13.9v, I pressed on. The light would go out at idle but continued to flash intermittently under acceleration. Screw it! I went on to have a wonderful morning drive.

 

I am wondering if the flashing light is the result of an interaction with the BMS on the new battery. Has anyone else seen this happen? Interestingly, the vm indicated 14.2v with the old battery but indicates 13.9v with the new battery. Anyway, the scuttle comes off tomorrow in order to recheck all of the appropriate wiring in detail.

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I spoke with a gentleman at Deltran this morning. He said that the BMS is designed to accept ups to a 10a charge with any excess bypassing the cells. He hasn't heard of any interaction with an alternator light. I may get to pull the scuttle later today to start to check the rest of the wiring across the kill switch etc. This may be delayed as i am having a great time setting up my new Quick-Jack lift (quarantine gift to myself).

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Interesting phenomenon, like you I would have expected the same 14.2V with the engine running. I wonder if the alternator warning light is due to the BMS protecting the the battery and the alternator's current spiking briefly as a result. Any chance your alternator is larger than your battery can accommodate?

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The fellow I spoke with at Deltran couldn't really speak to this. I'm running a 40a alternator through a 10a fuse. The max charge rate for the battery is 40a. The problem isn't evident from the basic numbers. I finally have time today to check the wiring and do some diagnosis. Inquiring minds want to know!

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By now you probably have this figured out, but another thought came to mind. The BMS might also protect against temperature and not just input voltage. As a test of this or over or under voltage conditions, you could reinstall your old battery (or any lead-acid battery) connected to the alternator alongside your new battery so the alternator has somewhere to dump the charge if it is the BMS. The answer may not be to replace your battery, but to install something to protect the alternator should the battery be disconnected while the engine is running (by the BMS).

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  • 6 months later...

I just bought and installed a Battery Tender by Deltran, 6.1 AH 360 CA  Battery in "Ruby" today. 3.4 pounds $169.00.  

 

We'll see what happens.  So many choices and input it gets confusing after a while.  

 

 

Edited by Lucky-7
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I know they say it shouldn't be charging at over 10 amps and most of our alternators' are capable of putting out 40 Amps, but if I recall my basic electrical theory, they will only put out as much as needed. Therefore, if you are running your headlights, heater wipers etc. The alternator will meet the demand. If the battery is keeping a good charge it will be lower amps to the battery. We'll see.

 

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