TexasDreamer Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 I'm about to change the battery in a 1991/92 Super Sprint, RHD. I can't see a way to get the battery out other than removing the rear carb. Any tips or tricks to getting the carb out? Can I simply (yeah, right) unbolt everything and pull it out? Do I need to buy new gaskets to go between the carb and the manifold or can I re-use whatever is there? Carb is Weber 40 DCOE 151. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kitcat Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 My LHD 97 Super Sprint's battery was also under the carbs. But it was small enough that it could be wiggled out(barely), without removing the carbs or surrounding hoses, etc. Maybe look into replacing the current battery with something smaller and doesn't take as much effort to replace? My Cat used a smaller, tractor style battery, maybe 1/3 the size of a normal auto battery. I know this doesn't solve your current dilemma tho. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bball7754 Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Can you go out the bottom? You would have to jack up the front of the car, or even put it on 4 jack stands, but it seems like it would be doable. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anker Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 I drop mine down to the floor instead of trying to lift it out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheDingo8MyBaby Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Typically there is a small plate either made of metal or plastic with one (metal) or two o-rings (plastic) between the carbs and manifold. They're called soft mounts. They're also typically mounted using nylocks with thackery washers or soft rubber bushes. As long as the o-rings are in good shape, you should be able to reuse them. removing the carbs is very easy. Just make sure you don't spill the fuel out of the bowls. The tricky part is mounting them without over-tightening the mounts so they still flex. If you have the thackery washers, it's a good ideal to measure the distance between coils before disassembly so you can torque the nuts to get that same distance on the coils. You should also be prepared to re-sync the carbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Anker Posted March 20 Share Posted March 20 It is actually easier to remove the manifold with the carbs attached from the head. The carb to manifold nuts are very hard to get at and have to be torqued exactly right. All the manifold to head nuts can be easily accessed with a socket extension. Don't forget to partially drain the coolant! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TexasDreamer Posted March 21 Author Share Posted March 21 Good tips. I ordered the battery. Kitcat's comment pushed me over the edge to get a lithium battery. My previous thinking was to stay with PC680 because 1) it's more or less original (totally irrational, I know, but hey, the whole car is totally irrational) 2) fear of the unknown and 3) with this car I'm trying to resist the temptation to continuously "improve it" and be disciplined to "leave well enough alone". However, all that pales in comparison to getting the battery out. Just saw the pictures of a red 1992 with the battery right up top where my heater is. Right now I'm feeling like I would gladly give up the heater to turn this battery replacement into a ten minute job. I'll try to get it out the bottom first and if that doesn't work, cross the that bridge when I get there. Will update the thread when I get it done but it may be awhile. The spring re-landscaping is taking precedence. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Elise111 Posted March 25 Share Posted March 25 A PC680 should easily slide out the bottom- that’s what I have under my carbs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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