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I am about to order a 2 quart Accusump, I was advised to get the manual valve and not the electrical one due to reliability issues. Before I go ahead I wondered if anyone had experience good or bad with this setup?

 

Thanks,

 

Bart

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I have the Accusump with electric switch.

 

I can't say that it's problem free but it's also not a complicated piece of engineering. 

 

I never had a problem with the switch or valve itself but rather the complexity of more connections and doing the preventive maint. on the sump itself.

 

I think right now it reads too high pressure wise and has a small leak at a connection to the valve.

 

 

It's a small electrical switch and a valve. I think over the past few decades basic switches have proven their reliability overall. If there were an extremely troublesome area we'd still have crank windows in cars instead of having them more and more electrified. 

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I started with the manual. 100% reliable- when I remembered to turn it off and on:). On the advice of my mechanic, I switched to electric and it’s mostly reliable. I’d choose manual if I was starting over.

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I ran one in my 944 when I was racing (POC, PCA). After talking with a couple of friends with CSR cars, I opted for a manual ball valve and actually wrote out “start” and “shutdown” procedures just as we had in the Boeing. Once rehearsed a few times,  process worked perfectly. In my case, a -8 hose ran from the front of the engine through the valve in the cabin (adjacent to the gear shift) to the spare tire well in the trunk. The system worked great and was trouble free as long as I had the car (5 years or so).

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Hi, thanks for the info, funny I have my PPL and was thinking the same thing about a checklist :)  I am going for the manual version, I like the idea of it being a step in the process rather than automatic.

 

 

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Out of curiosity, how do you guys control your manual ones?

 

For me at startup the Accusump starts dumping oil as soon as I turn the key and oils up the head/cylinders I believe. 


As the engine starts up it gets repressurized and stays at pressure throughout until shut off. Then it maintains until started again

 

That's if I leave it "on". If I leave it off or turn it off, it dumps the pressure and the car acts as if it's not there, with a little bit more fluid total.

 

 

Also how much extra oil do you guys add to the capacity to account for accusump? Between shallow oil pan, accusump, remote oil filter and oil cooler in the front I have a LOT of extra lines and volume to account for and I'm never sure what the right amount is. Dip stick isn't accurate due to the shallow pan. 

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Checklist? I used white paint and spelled the word “Oil” on the flat center of my steering wheel, as a friendly reminder:).

 

My currently electric valve system dumps oil into the engine as soon as the ignition is switched on, and before I hit the starter. I have an engine oil pressure guage and can watch it go from 0 to 7-25lbs, depending on its mood, apparently.

 

Once the pressure guage on the Accusump tank drops and I register positive oil pressure in the engine, I start it up. It soon pumps the extra 2 quarts back into the Accusump tank and the tank goes from 0 lbs back to 60-70.

 

In long sweepers, like the bowl on Lightening at NJMP, I can look over and see  the Accusump guage drop, as it repressurizes the engine.

 

Things that can go wrong. A loose elec connection can stop it from working, the wrong level pressure regulator causes it to mis function and to add oil when none is needed. Overpressurizing the tank will cause the blow off valve to open and pump 2 quarts of oil into the car, overfilling the oil pan will cause the engine to pump oil out the breather vent in the engine bay, drenching your pants with oil and making the pedals slippery or, at least, that’s what I have heard….

 

Quantity is 2 quarts + the normal amount. Depends on how much the oil cooler, the oil lines, and the oil filter hold along with the oil pan. On my Caterham, it’s 3-3&1/2 quarts + the 2 in the Accusump. Be sure  rev it to approximately 3K, for 30” to refill the Accusump, before measuring engine oil level with the dipstick.

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Just bought a Viper with an Accusump and an electric fuel pump - startup is like a 747 check list: turn key 2 clicks, push red Accusump button, wait 20-30 seconds for oil pressure to raise to 20-30 psi, turn on electric fuel pump, turn on engine with key. Reverse for shut down.

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C7, I think the real value of the Accusump is in those moments on track under heavy G-forces, when oil starvation occurs. The ability to pressurize the engine before start up is a bonus but, given that virtually no other engines start with pressure, yet survive nicely, I think you can safely skip the steps requiring you to wait 20-30” on startup. At least I do.

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Actually the start up on the Viper was important as it helps get rid of lifter ticking that sometimes happens with this big hunk of metal until the pressure builds. :classic_biggrin:

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  • 1 month later...

Just joined but have my 2 quart unit up front with -8 aircraft connection close to motor with manual ball valve controlled by a push/pull mechanical connection to driver area  similar to the old "choke" control units from decades ago.

You need to keep connection somewhat short and minimize bends for smooth operation. I use it a few seconds before start-up to prelube bearings on my 1500 cc Cortina ( old Cosworth style as used on Series 2 Lotus) and then leave it on until a second before shut down. Most racers just have unit in passenger side.

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I used a 2 qt. Accusump with -8 lines, front mounted oil cooler. I think the quantity went from 6.5 to 9.5 qts. I opened the valve prior to start, looking for the oil pressure rise before starting. I left it on until just prior to shutdown. Due to the hot oil pressure drop, I would have to rev the engine to 2,000 or so to get a "running" oil pressure to replenish the accumulator. At that point, I closed the valve. The real challenge was at "oil change" time, getting all the oil out of the cooler, air/oil separator and accusump lines. 

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