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1967 S3 (Millington XE 2.0L)


Rosteri
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@Rosteri  I am still coming back here to study your posts and absorb.  One question I am interested in - the Millington engine block.  Is this the block that Millington did to copy the Vauxhall 2L (re-rengineered so stronger) or is this their custom block that they build bespoke competition engines with, which is what I thought was called the "XE"?   The reason I asked is I thought you needed a Millington head to go with the block but you mixed and matched with a non-Millington head so I got confused.

 

Thank you for clarifying

mike

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Hi Mike, the block is the aluminium version of the Opel/Vauxhall 2L 16v, which has an engine code C20XE -> hence the name Millington XE.

 

Millington produces also new heads for this block and builds complete XE engines, however they are usually with a longer stroke and max out the cylinder bore to 88 mm for this engine. The original KS or Coscast C20XE heads fit perfectly as well. According to Millington I'm the first one to build a 2.0L with their block, which I selected mainly so I could use the Caterham HPC as my reference vehicle in our local re-registration process. The main advantage of the Millington block is a weight saving of 20kg, which takes place in the front of the car, and of course everyone else uses the option to increase the volume to 2.5L, which takes the engine effortlessly to 300-320 bhp. 

 

The project took 11 months from start to first drive, but I'm still in shakedown mode to get rid of a few fluid leaks, leaking header joints, re-routing a few chafing oil hoses... all the normal stuff that appears only after driving the car. 

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

Copying also my RHD -> LHD post here to complete the documentation:

 

Chassis: Imperial S3

 

  • The steering column lower and upper are usable on both sides
  • The steering rack pinion can be rotated, but it needs machining a hole to the blanking plate. Remove C-lock ring, drill a small hole to the center of the blanking plate, use a punch to push the pinion out, take blanking plate out and machine larger hole to match steering rack connection and assemble -> done.
  • I didn't have mounts for steering on both sides, so I had to do some welding. 
    • I cut the lower dash tube with the steering column symmetrically and flipped it over. The angles match.
    • I cut of the pedal box as close as possible to the footwell
    • The footwell on the driver and passenger side was of different shape. I used cardboard templates to replicate the original driver side, removed the original passenger side completely and built a new one out of scratch (1.5 mm 6061T6).
    • Reshaped and fitted the pedal box and welded it in place
  • Cut off the lower mount for the steering column (just outside scuttle) and welded it to other side
  • Made a half moon cutout into the rectangular chassis tube to clear the steering rack

 

Whether the steering column clears the engine components (exhaust, drysump, alternator...) or not is fairly hard to predict, but it can be checked with a string before starting. I had only a chassis to start with and could design everything around the new steering column location. 

 

So it is perfectly feasible to switch sides, but it will require serious fabrication and welding skills. I hope this helps someone in the future!

 

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

At a local car breakfast a photographer took some really nice images of the car - credits to Teemu Turunen: 

 

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

And a small upgrade - a new steering column from Go-Race arrived, the old one had some play in it. The first impression is great.

 

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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  • 1 month later...

The Go-Race column was 200g lighter than the original Lifeline, which was a nice surprise. The engine is out again and the Tracsport type9 has been sold, it will continue its life in an Escort - I’ll place an order for a new Sadev sequential this week.

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Edited by Rosteri
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I’m totally blown away by your skills and knowledge. What an epic project. It’s  on a much higher level than the typical Caterham assembly. Few, if any, here could do it and we have some very impressive folks. The combo of this engine and the Sadev should make this very competitive on the track.

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Thanks Kitcat, much of this wouldn’t have been possible 20 years ago before forums like this or youtube - today anyone can pick up skills, that were previously very special.

 

The sequential control has been very interesting to study and I’m leaning towards MME Motorsport from Slovenia. They have great documentation online, respond fast to questions, good looking products and a modern can based interface, that requires minimal changes to my engine loom and integrates well to my Ecumaster Black Ecu.
 

It was very similar when researching Ecu’s - many of the Ecus from the Uk felt outdated and expensive with their RS232 interfaces and e.g. lack of built in wideband control. They most likely do their job extremel well once setup, but without any special experteese (here where I live) and minimal info on forums (as most are 10-20 years old tech) I was eventually super happy with my choice. Unfortunately the Ecumaster doesn’t yet have closed loop shift control, so I’ll still need a gear control unit alongside it. 
 

The plan is to retain the gear lever for normal shifting and neutral/reverse, while having paddles as an additional option for gears 1-6. I went with 2.30-0.87 gear ratios while keeping my 3.98 Ford diff.

Edited by Rosteri
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