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1967 S3 (Millington XE 2.0L)


Rosteri
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A small setback, as the speedo output on the Sadev was empty, even though it was checked that it would be functional at order. The first thing will be designing and making parts to fit my hydraulic clutch.

 

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The MME delivery arrived as well, lot’s of cool stuff in the house… The paddle system was for a 280-300 mm steering wheel, and I have a 260 mm one. So quite a bit of mods here as well, but that was no surprise. But I was hoping, that the top button mounts (indicators in my case) would be ok, but no space for fingers..


The quick release ring for the steering wheel won’t fit either, but it looks like a little material removal will do.

 

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Have you considered mounting the turn signal switches in the spokes? It looks like you might have space for that.  Mine are mounted this way and it works well. I can post a picture if it helps.

 

-John

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13 minutes ago, JohnCh said:

Have you considered mounting the turn signal switches in the spokes? It looks like you might have space for that.  Mine are mounted this way and it works well. I can post a picture if it helps.

 

-John


Ah, thanks John, I did not consider that! I checked and there is space, this will make it much easier. And the neutral/reverse button could go under the MOMO logo. 

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Here's a picture of my current setup.  For scale, the wheel is 270mm, but it appears my spokes are thinner than yours.

 

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-John

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Posted (edited)

Clutch slave adapter next… I really like the Turbosport setup, as the slave is on an M42x1.5 thread. The setup is attach engine to gearbox, then unscrew the slave until it touches the clutch, then back-up 2 rotations and lock it with a setscrew. The Sadev is designed for a Saab 900 / AP slave, so I need something like this: 

 

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First operation was with a lathe to make this:

 

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Then with my Abene milling machine some flats for the setscrew and for holding it with a vice in the next step:

 

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And then the rest with a CNC:

 

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The result:

 

5422702F-F75C-49D5-925E-CF68A74839BD.thumb.jpeg.a4fff535bb0fabe2974d5227460ce5e7.jpeg

Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

And the mechanical parts of the steering are now sorted as well - it looks and feels great. 
 

Testing a new vacuum attachment for plate machining on the cnc seems to work fine for one off parts - I leave 0.12mm final material thickness, which keeps the vacuum intact and it can then be cut/removed with a knife.

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

The Sadev price includes a custom input shaft - I was kind to them and specified an off the shelf shaft with a shortened center bearing tip, but they just delivered the standard.
 

Thanks Sadev… nothing beats the feeling of using an angle grinder on your new 10k purchase. 
 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

First check on the actuator placement.  MME sent me accidentally a +/- 12.5 mm (25mm) actuator, while I ordered a  50mm actuator. The stroke can be reduced with internal spacers. 
 

I measured the Sadev lever stroke and it is actually 25mm in total, so this one *could* work, but with very little margin for error. Space is also limited above the gearbox, so I most likely need a rod extension to move it a few centimeters towards the engine for a more horizontal position. 
 

-> I’ll wait for MME to send me the longer version.

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

After more measuring I decided to go with the 25mm max travel version after all, as I can control the needed max stroke also with the angle of the gearbox lever. Mounting the actuator is a little tricky due to the bellhousing shape, but I think I now have a plan.

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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Posted (edited)

I also made a bracket for the pressure regulator - space is really limited in this tiny car, so I think I’ll put it in the trunk as well.

 

I saved weight by replacing the pressure cover with the bracket… 😎

 

 

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And the pneumatic throttle blipper for downshifting found its place:

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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12 hours ago, Rosteri said:


F10335D4-BDEC-4551-83B2-18FEF482BF98.thumb.jpeg.3e052f189fb0121aaaaddacd645d72d9.jpeg

 

Loving this project as you are engineering your way through things.

 

One question - in the above photo you have the actuator connected by rod to the gearbox to make gear shifts but you also have the gear stick connected by rod to the same point.  What happens when you change gear by paddle shift?  Does gear stick move as well?  Do they interfere with each other in some way? I made the decision early on to delete my traditional gear stick and just stick to paddles but I have not thought through what happens if you had both.  

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Just now, Croc said:

One question - in the above photo you have the actuator connected by rod to the gearbox to make gear shifts but you also have the gear stick connected by rod to the same point.  What happens when you change gear by paddle shift?  Does gear stick move as well?  Do they interfere with each other in some way? I made the decision early on to delete my traditional gear stick and just stick to paddles but I have not thought through what happens if you had both.  

 

The gear shifter will move with the paddles. With the gear shifter I can also do full throttle upshifts (closed loop) and normal clutched shifts, and the only downside is, that I I have to keep the mechanical shift lock on the lever, so neutral/reverse only with the shifter and not with paddles for now.

 

My main reason to keep the shifter is that I can test the car first without having to worry about the paddle setup / software. If I never end up using the shifter, then the current setup allows me just to remove the shifter and program neutral/reverse with paddles. I will anyway wire a clutch switch and a second N/R switch to the steering wheel, and both have to be depressed for neutral/reverse when using the paddles (without stick mounted that is). 

 

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The actuator bracket is now mounted with 4 * M8 bolts to threaded holes and I also made a small steel extension so the uniball reaches the Sadev gear lever. Next I’m trying to work out the length of the stroke to match the Sadev - the thinnest spacer to limit the max travel is 0.5 mm and the M8 of the uniball has a 1.25mm pitch, so half a rotation of the uniball is 0.63 mm. So not that accurate.
 

What I don’t know is, do I try to reach the Sadev lever movement just below its endpoints (to limit stress to it) or slightly over (to ensure a positive gear change)? Also an interesting finding, that one can’t change gears without the input shaft rotating. So no more easy gear changes engine off… 
 

The regulator finally found its place -  on top of the actuator, this way I can keep full pressure in the long hose from the compressor and only a short segment of operating pressure to the valve block. And it looks cool.
 

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I added one 1 mm spacer into the actuator to reduce max stroke to 24 mm. While doing it I realized, that by turning the actuator piston shaft the uniball can be adjusted accurately… no half turn steps needed here 😙

 

I also repositioned the clutch input and bleed and simply filled the old holes with J-B Weld, then made a cover for the bellhousing - I did drop a screw in last summer.

 

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Posted (edited)

They do look like a match made in heaven!

 

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Clutch slave adjusted to touch:

 

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Edited by Rosteri
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And the dimensions fit - the clutch plates end where the caliper base is, also the center bearing has a few millimeters air.

 

 

58ADE8D8-7FC5-4C1F-9B82-A9FCA38EC58B.jpeg

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"I also repositioned the clutch input and bleed and simply filled the old holes with J-B Weld, then made a cover for the bellhousing - I did drop a screw in last summer."

 

I am so delighted that a machinist as sophisticated as you can still find a use for J-B Weld.  It's all beautiful work.

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9 hours ago, panamericano said:

I am so delighted that a machinist as sophisticated as you can still find a use for J-B Weld.  It's all beautiful work.


We all have our soft spots… 😀

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