Jump to content

DanM's Westfield Miata


DanM

Recommended Posts

Great work. One point, I am not sure if you have done this or not, it's tough to tell from the pictures. If you have a bolt that is going north south, in line with the car. You put the head of the bolt forward pointing towards the front of the car. The logic is any debris will be coming from front to back. With the bolt pointing forward the head of the bolt will be damaged not the thread. You can work with a damaged head of a bolt, but if the thread or nut is damaged it can be much more difficult to remove. The devil is in the detail. 

 

Another point, I would not use hardware store bolts in high stress applications. I have had a few break over the years. Plus the plating on the hardware is always crappy so they look bad after a short period of time. Do I use hardware store bolts, yes to keep the project going. But if it's high stress it's soon replaced with a quality piece. I had a alternator bolt just snap this sprint, lost the belt and took out the coolant temp sensor. Almost wrecked a track day. Luckily I found the kart repair shop and the mechanic was very helpful getting me back on the road. 

 

I use https://www.mcmaster.com/ Huge outfit, all parts on stock there shipping is amazing, consistently the fasted shipping I have ever come across. They claim something like 2 millions parts in stock. Also have a SolidWorks interface, so you can suck any parts into a CAD design. I used to live near the warehouse in Chicago, just massive facility. Not the cheapest but industrial quality parts. 

 

Graham  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quick Jack time

 

After installing the diff during the week I noticed that my rear stand was starting to feel the weight. In fact for the last few days I had wooden 2x4s propping up at the back to stop it from buckling.  I was always planning to put the chassis on quick jacks at some point but figured it would be once I had wheels on it.

 

Anyway, with the help of a couple of neighbours we lifted the car off the stands and onto the more stable platform.

IMG_5405.thumb.JPG.7f38c74a8d13d211f2d65aa36a835fef.JPG

 

Here are the jacking points I chose, anyone see any issues?

IMG_5406.thumb.JPG.ba5b81451d02d6f4d51644a318760184.JPG

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rear loom

 

With the weather reaching 40C with thunderstorms here this weekend, venturing outside doesn't seem to be too appealing. It been in the 30Cs for weeks, but this just takes the biscuit!

 

As much as I said I wanted to take time away, I truely have the "build bug" at the moment so I'm moving on with anything I can while waiting for my wishbone bolts.

 

Today I decided to fit and trim the rear loom.  Those that have been following my thread will remember that I started my build by stripping and sorting the old MX5 loom.  Well, I'm glad I did 'cos I found laying out the rear loom quite relaxing.

 

IMG_5409a.thumb.jpg.badc8b8bcf52b39ef6d1330dad856f26.jpg

 

The route past the diff.

IMG_5411a.thumb.JPG.d1c16c8b0e85219bac4f0d33ba87d8ac.JPG

 

I managed to add the extra wires using the donor loom, but still need to add a few more (Handbrake switch, 3rd stop light and the rear fog light). I used some painters tape to leave myself reminders.  I couldn't seem to find the rear fog light wire from the donor...weird!!  IMG_5407a.thumb.jpg.12032d7b2bf216b66f5de978272ddbc4.jpg

 

Once I have new wires in I'll remove the loom and start taping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After you have completed all the wiring, you need to check the complete system. Start by installing each fuse one at a time. If you don’t have a master cutoff switch, then leave the battery clamp loose so it can be quickly pulled if there is a direct short. Once you have verified that the individual circuit is OK, then move on to the next fuse. Once very fuse is installed and all the circuits are checked, including the engine instruments, then go back and rap the harness with wiring split tube or plastic spiral rap and attach the harness to the frame with “P” clips. If your budget allows, you might want to look at wrap around braided sleeving from, cabletiesandmore.com supplier if you want an upscale look.  

     I would not use tape to wrap the complete wiring harness, because it will be PITA to trace or change any of the wires if you do have a problem, or later want to add a new circuit. In fact, you should consider adding extra wires to both the rear and front wire bundles. lt made life much easier when later I added an air horn. Add the extra wire color codes to your notes or schematic for later reference. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan, I’ve been getting on this forum daily to see your progress. I appreciate your knowledge and attention to the details. As soon as it’s road ready, all the pain in the ass problem’s will fade.. Thanks for sharing your build…. Enjoy.. Steve

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

Thanks @S1Steve:cheers2:

 

So, it's been just over a month since my last post! How time flies!  I took a short break from the build to enjoy the last of the summer with the family before the kids went back to school.  First we went down to Nova Scotia for some sea air and fresh lobster and then I flew back to England for a family wedding and catch up with some friends.  The kids are now back at school and apart from some household chores and repairs I hope to be back on the build within a week or so!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So I'm finally back in the garage this week after nearly two months away from the build. The rest has been good, but tuning into where I was before I stopped has taken me a couple of evenings (Just staring! 🤪).

 

The first thing I tackled was finishing off the rear control arms and knuckles.  If you recall I had trouble fitting the bolt and had to saw it in half.  Well, I managed to get some replacement bolts (and a reamer to clean out the bushing) and then the assembly went together like butter.

 

I'll trim off the excess length once its all torqued down.

IMG_5469a.thumb.jpg.6674aad563905685c49c2a80b7a8b864.jpg

 

Once the assembly was together I could then move on to the discs, calipers and pads.

IMG_5471a.thumb.jpg.7ccf0bf5632a6fd7b8134d9c837ec608.jpg

 

IMG_5804a.thumb.jpg.1e90bed11bab5404a168c08fe09e2dec.jpg

 

Question.....

 

When are builders typically adding brake fluid to the system? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, DanM said:

Question.....

 

When are builders typically adding brake fluid to the system? 

 

When you can bleed it.  Which might be *after* the parking brake goes in... which is pretty late in the Caterham process.  The risk is that if you have to open a sealed system, you have to basically dump 1-2qts of fluid to bleed it again.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Today I spent some time on my engine to start getting it ready for install.  

 

First, I rerouted the oil cooler coolant hose.  Normally this would connect to the coolant neck, however because I installed a coolant reroute kit I deleted the neck and decided to connect the hose to my G19 water pump inlet. 

 

The water pump inlet has a 18mm threaded port that enables you to connect a hose.  I bought a Earl hose end from vividracing.com.

 

https://www.vividracing.com/-p-152784447.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI64Cl492m-gIVGHyGCh3PEAiOEAsYBSABEgKanvD_BwE

 

 Hose end installed on the G19 inlet.IMG_5782a.thumb.jpg.6789a53bc616b263f6433d832f6fcdcd.jpg

 

...and then ran a new length of hose from the cooler to the inlet.

 

IMG_5783a.thumb.jpg.95ae425cd9fc7bc3adc1625a25aff59b.jpg

 

IMG_5784a.thumb.jpg.2c3b420448d482063cd268bce944d102.jpg

Edited by DanM
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Header wrap

 

As my donor car was missing it's exhaust manifold heat shield I decided I was going to wrap them.  Partially for aesthetics and partially to help reduce the heat under the hood.

 

First things first I needed to tidy up the headers a little by tapping the holes and installing new bolts.

IMG_5793a.thumb.jpg.d9ba4ba1052d13543eb7facb2b40d591.jpg

 

Next, because I am installing a wideband O2 sensor, I needed to plug up the OEM O2 sensor bung.  Instead of welding a plug I bought a threaded one instead. The O2 sensor bung also needed tapping.

IMG_5797a.thumb.jpg.2aa08b44c5af81da2e9a176663f3f7c4.jpg

 

The finished item ready for wrapping....

IMG_5798a.thumb.jpg.eaaa900a25bc7a90c8ffa12679942303.jpg

 

After a bit of research I decided to use the DEI Titanium wrap in grey.  It only came with 4 short clips so I needed to by extra. 

IMG_5799a.thumb.jpg.556eebad50dbd4c80e9f778c94f944d7.jpg

 

As this was the first time I had ever wrapped an exhaust I took it slow and steady.  I was really surprised how soft and pliable this stuff was and after a few short minutes I had the first pipe completed and temporarily held in place with a zip tie.

IMG_5800a.thumb.jpg.6f13f8b8ff3d3e1f2da6663ffbda59a3.jpg

 

The finished product.

IMG_5801a.thumb.jpg.b7211bd49314a68e50471a5bcf35c76f.jpg

 

The only thing remaining was to seat a new gasket and install it on the engine.

IMG_5811a.thumb.jpg.248be5868ec70e6bf164934d7d76add2.jpg

 

Happy Days!

IMG_5813a.thumb.jpg.18d04b165d512bdc418593d1ae24015f.jpg

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Steering Column mods

 

So while I'm waiting for some gearbox seals to arrive, I thought I'd have a go at modifying the Miata upper steering column. 

IMG_5835a.thumb.jpg.078e9de8cc5ff94cb75227154a089c58.jpg

 

The manual says to remove the lower mounting bracket and welds.  So out came the angle grinder and I went to work.

IMG_5837a.thumb.jpg.043558821fccb387da9ecd935144ad6b.jpg

 

Followed by some bench grinding....

IMG_5839a.jpg.15b244036c7a2944939d77fe72b14e60.jpg

 

....and some hand filing to get it smooth(ish).

IMG_5844a.thumb.jpg.b2a0d29ebdde142f0530d940b380da5c.jpg

 

Once I was happy, I cleaned it up, repacked the bearings with grease and gave it a coat of paint.

IMG_5845a.jpg.dcb9bba1a93fb625e9b53a2894647a74.jpg

 

Unfortunately, I'm missing the U-bolts from my kit so couldn't install in the column. But, for fun I decided to temporarily fit it in place.....

 

Question:  I know these columns don't fit straight, but is this a little excessive?  Westfield SDV builders please chime in!!

IMG_5849a.thumb.jpg.4761f2091fc8ebf9de7f2cd2906a548c.jpg

 

....and with the donor steering wheel.

IMG_5851a.thumb.jpg.8b54cd66dd5a3df4b7609c148f1c2cf5.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Gearbox

 

Today I started to give my gearbox a bit of attention.  I have no plans to do an overhaul, but I at least wanted to refresh some seals etc., and put in some new plugs. 

IMG_5817a.thumb.jpg.2eaf85d40a36c9dec3451af2c4ef008b.jpg

 

First up, change out the front and rear seals and gasket with genuine Mazda parts.

IMG_5818a.thumb.jpg.a6e0b7abcb3589a62347cc064f8ff292.jpg

 

New rear seal 

IMG_5828a.thumb.jpg.fb9e699d3011a649d27bfa10640d760b.jpg

 

Front seal and Gasket.  The donor had a thick layer of silicone instead of the OEM paper gaskets....I hope it was just laziness.

IMG_5866a.thumb.jpg.1b46c965520a87e53229c3b58e1d9482.jpg

 

All greased, ready for the clutch fork and a new throw-out bearing

IMG_5867a.thumb.jpg.0c62953a1dd54ef6a48bcbfbc19b1e59.jpg

 

IMG_5870a.thumb.jpg.7e87e7c4db50d2ee0752a2986b95a428.jpg

 

And finally new oil drain and filler plugs

IMG_5826a.thumb.jpg.14cde8b81f36524605628b2ab6926797.jpg

 

 

 
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 minutes ago, fastg said:

 

I'd definitely second using redline. I used their MT-90 in my Miata 5-speed box. It feels way better than anything else I've tried.

  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like the pedal box flanges are too far outboard, which put the box too far outboard, which suggested making the hole too far, etc.

It looks like Westy put the flanges on based on a right hand drive dimensions. You said they didn't provide the top panel a few posts back. Maybe that is why?

 

Ask Westy for the dimensions on where the rails should be on the chassis to confirm.

 

I hope I am wrong. Take a pic of your foot well showing pedal lateral clearance.

 

On other westy mx5 sevens, there should be an exhaust type U bolt clamp for the lower column. Between it and the upper mount should have the steering equidistant to the dash hoop on each side of the steering wheel. I don't know about anything special for an SV.

 

Good pick about half way down the page: https://kitskitcar.wordpress.com/page/2/

Edited by MV8
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...