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My 1996 Caterham S3 X-Flow "Beater" refresh and other journeys down the rabbit hole


IamScotticus
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Hello.

I think I should contribute here, wanted or not, my limping recovery. 

Firstly I am taking any advice as how to go about repairing the extruded holes that once held rivnuts.  Thanks.

 

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Edited by IamScotticus
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Really?

I know this isn't anything new for 7 damage, but the circumstances were totally shameful.

I am thinking I should remove the inner panel, aneal, and compress the extrusions with a bolt, nut and two washers.  Then fit new size rivnuts.  

Another mod Im considering is fabing an access panel for the grot trap.

 

This, cleaning up 8 years of rust, lower end seals and a shine is all she really needs.

I intend to throw on a T-9 as well.

I was very excited to hear about the cable-less speedo sending options available.   Should I stick with VDO?

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I guess this was an oops at an autocross when hitting a cone?  

 

Your instincts for fixing are pretty spot on.  The experienced repairers compress the extrusions with a bolt and large washers.  The method I liked best has two washers - a plastic one against the panel metal (to protect it) and then the plastic washer is backed by a metal washer for strength - 4 washers in total.  Bolt and nut with a rachet spanner on the nut.  Then a light beat for finishing.   Fortunately it is in a place where it is not that visible once repaired.

 

For reattaching wing, I am a fan of the nylon bolts instead of metal rivnuts.  If you have doubts about the strength of the metal around the hole you can also do a nylon washer.  The nylon bolts shear quicker than the panel does so you don't damage the metal if you do it again.  I suspect I am preaching to the converted but once you have done this one you want to avoid the sheet metal damage in the future!!!

 

What is the back story with your car?  Clearly an interesting project you have picked up.

 

 

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Race damage?  That is far more honorable than the reality.

I had gotten the car ready for DOT safety inspection.  I hadn't renewed the registration so I chose to trailer than drive.

My spotter help didn't show.  I had loaded the car on a UHaul car trailer before,  so, I assumed I could do it again.  Back then, the car was sans engine,  muff, and me.  It rode higher.  

So, intrepid me gunned the car up the ramps and Bang!  Off went the muff, rear wing, and the inner tire guides peeled skin back a few inches on both sides as I wedged between them.

The shame 😔

Edited by IamScotticus
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I would not beat yourself up too much.  We have all done things that look regrettable in hindsight.  Thinking about the truck I took under a low bridge and lopped the top off...

 

 

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6 hours ago, Croc said:

I would not beat yourself up too much.  We have all done things that look regrettable in hindsight.  Thinking about the truck I took under a low bridge and lopped the top off...

 

 

 

I concur. Recent one I can remember is placing the battery in a not so ideal spot and latching the hood down on it. Battery > Aluminum. Had to have a PDR guy come help. 

 

I'm curious to see this thread as well and how you progress. I've already learned from Croc above good methods for such situations

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On the battery, 

My current bracket is lower right side where access is limited bt the top brace and webbers.

I wish to fab a Passenger foot well extension, for anyone brave enough to ride.

This would really limit battery access.

So, my plan is to choose a flat lithium battery to lay atop the firewall shelf.  I don't have the heater box there so plenty of room.

Or I suppose it could be in a box on the end of the foot well

 

I DO have good news!

I stacked my BH, ali spacer & T9 and measures it all to a 23" length from BH to mount bolt.

My measurements tonight confirmed that the transmission bracket location is in perfect position.

 

When I bought a bunch of parts in a garage raid I got an extra transmission mount bracket for an Escort box.  I can only assume the previous builder had removed it after upgrading transmissions.

Would it be advisable to remove my Escort bracket to assist in the fitment of the T9?

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13 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

So, my plan is to choose a flat lithium battery to lay atop the firewall shelf.  

 

I did something similar.  That location also has the added advantage of being far removed from the heat of the engine.

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3 hours ago, Pokey said:

 

I did something similar. 

What battery did you get?

Do you use a regulator or something for power management?

I don't imagine that connecting a Lithium battery directly to an alternator is acceptable these days.

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I've recently been repairing the rear wing rivnut holes on my S3 (I actually had to relocate them slightly as well). I decided to replace all of them (since I had the interior panel off anyway and therefore access to all of them). I don't like the use of rivnuts here, so instead, I used a fastener which gets bonded onto the panel: it's basically a big washer with a nut. I bought them from McMaster-Carr in 1/4" size. I used a panel bond adhesive by 3M (08115): you could use an epoxy you like, though. I then use nylon 1/4" bolts to secure the wings. A lot more work than a rivnut, but looking at the damaged holes in your setup, I'd think you want as wide a fastener as possible.

 

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18 hours ago, IamScotticus said:

What battery did you get?

Do you use a regulator or something for power management?

I don't imagine that connecting a Lithium battery directly to an alternator is acceptable these days.

 

I'm using an EarthX ETX680.  They have other form factors and cranking amps available.  The ETX models are designed for use with an alternator. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I have a few Webber DCOE 151 Qs for yall:

 

I got a Webcon Webber top mount throttle cable contraption.

Can someone put up pic of their linkage assembly?

 

I got new everything for mounting except Thackeray washers. Do I need them?

 

Burtons DCOE rebuild kit they describe as being for 40, 45, etc.  But the kit package states its only for 45s.  Is this still usable to service 40s?

 

Thanks

 

 

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The Thackeray washers fatigue from vibration and eventually break, so given the price, it's a good idea to replace them while you have the carbs off.  One thing to consider: Thackerays on the bottom and rubber grommets on the top.  The Thackeray failure rate is much higher on the top studs, but the rubber grommets fail over time from fuel leakage.  This arrangement, recommended by Dave Bean, optimizes for both. 

 

-John

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Can't help you on the Webcon sorry - I don't have that on any of my 12 little monsters across 4 cars.

 

Yes for the Thackeray replacement.   I have both types of installations that John refers to.  Never had a Thackeray fail but I am a preventative maintenance type of person.  I have seen one fail at the NJMP 7s event so makes sense to do it now.

 

I have used Burton's rebuild kit on 40, 45 and 50s but not in the last 5 years so it may have changed.  Best check with them via an email.  

 

 

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  • IamScotticus changed the title to My 1996 Caterham S3 X-Flow "Beater" refresh and other journeys down the rabbit hole

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