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420R in Virginia


sainthoo

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On 5/11/2022 at 5:46 AM, sainthoo said:

 

 

Edit #2: Caterham cut the opening in the wrong spot for the SV…. This should be located 13.625” from front wishbone.   …. At least I’m not crazy…. Now to get to a solution.

 

 

 

 

That suuuuuuucks. I'm curious to hear what CC says. Easy solution is just enlarging the whole more towards the front of the car, but it's gonna look funny and I'd be annoyed to have to live with that solution. 

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10 hours ago, KnifeySpoony said:

That suuuuuuucks. I'm curious to hear what CC says. Easy solution is just enlarging the whole more towards the front of the car, but it's gonna look funny and I'd be annoyed to have to live with that solution. 

Yeah- options 1) custom headers, sounds simple, actual execution not straightforward to match up to collector/ muffler or 2) Caterham offered to send a new body opening panel- have to remove current, blend paint or 3) enlarge opening

 

Caterham is apologetic, offering to cover “solution.”

 

I am inclined to cut opening bigger, then have a stainless steel trim ring fabricated - make it look intentional.

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I'd accept a comp from Caterham that would have covered the cost to fix it.

 

Then I'd just cut out another inch using left and right Wiss offset compound snips/shears. You must start the cut in the middle and end at the curve, keeping the snip 90 deg to the skin. Stop if it starts to roll instead of cut. Then use a carbide, bastard cut rotary file (same as a porting bit) in a drill to smooth the cut edge or you can use a curved file. Finish with a deburring tool like a kobalt 58737 used on pipes.

Paint the edge with a small brush and clear (touchup paint would work), then pull the tape toward the opening.

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Since the area is typically covered by the stripes I would pay a body shop to carefully cut it from one side and then reapply it or weld it or otherwise secure it to the side that wasn't cut and then apply the stripes. I'm no body work expert and I know thin aluminum is hard to work with but I believe this is feasible.

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I would do my best to avoid any solution that requires paint blending. I know from experience that it can be difficult to match CC paint jobs. My car is Hyper Green and it has proven impossible to accurately match here.

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Steering wheel for those that want a pictorial (I am a rank amateur- so take that into account)

 

template- traced release hub, measured center points, drew lines to find center:

20015139-A3A5-4C71-AFEA-92BB0A917BC4.thumb.jpeg.34c02f5b257e5ae8bd39b069093f5678.jpeg

8975EF29-8DAE-4701-B230-E4D9CA947951.thumb.jpeg.931e5a827ba49cc39cbb6df72b9068e2.jpeg


Nail through paper into divot to line up.

 

F0FB1B8E-A512-4747-9612-D900CF1572FF.thumb.jpeg.7ab3ba353b2c48753da161ef9a9bfd5e.jpeg

Drew a center line on wheel, lined up with my template.

 

Then, I drilled and fitted the center spoke. Fitted hub with bolt/nut, then centered the next 2 holes with punch, removed hub, drilled next 2 holes. (I started small, worked my way up in 3 successively larger holes)

 

Counter sunk side facing driver to make bolts flush. Nylok nut, making sure there is clearance for releasing hub (don’t use a bolt that is too long).

 

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Edited by sainthoo
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Made my template of the factory opening for headers. Then, I measured 2” forward, applied tape, applied template, marked area to be removed.

 

(chose 2”, as I’m going to try to make the fore and aft gap more symmetric-  will further minimize gap discrepancy with trim ring as ring does not have to fit to edge of the body- cheat in a bit on aft edge).

 

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Now, wait for metal cutting implements to arrive.

 

Edited by sainthoo
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On 2/20/2022 at 1:25 PM, sainthoo said:

So far, one of the biggest challenges is interpreting the directions for my kit (420R with wide body) and finding the appropriate hardware and fasteners

Just catching up with your diary.  I have the same observation with the Westfield Build!  BTW, the car looks amazing!! :cheers2:

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Lord help me, I did it. 
First, I tried shears- straight cut, but way too fast, more difficult to turn than I was comfortable.

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I then tried this metal cutter that fibrates really fast (same as a bone saw). Not as pretty, but more controllable. Figured I would just clean up the edge afterward.

 

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1 hour ago, sf4018 said:

That Momo steering wheel seems quite large, is that from Caterham?

Yes, not very large at all in person (about 11” diameter), probably camera distortion.

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Couldn’t figure out why it wouldn’t turn over … resorted to manual.

 

Hey, look at that…. It’s an immobilzer, gonna go ahead and put that on the key ring.D890F0E9-4727-43D0-A9D4-30115EDA63A0.thumb.jpeg.d6f45c1c249a7cf992e635676d7aa6a9.jpeg

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Did you see the "Wheeler Dealers" Caterham  episode, where they made a little dash slot for the immobilizer?  It's now on the Motor Trend app.

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34 minutes ago, DanM said:

Did you see the "Wheeler Dealers" Caterham  episode, where they made a little dash slot for the immobilizer?  It's now on the Motor Trend app.

That seems strange to me- I’ll keep it with the key, so it can’t be stolen.

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53 minutes ago, sainthoo said:

Yes, not very large at all in person (about 11” diameter), probably camera distortion.

Is it a factory wheel? The factory wheels are 260mm I believe. Mine came pre-drilled as well.

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52 minutes ago, KnifeySpoony said:

Is it a factory wheel? The factory wheels are 260mm I believe. Mine came pre-drilled as well.

All I know is it came on the giant pallet of stuff with the kit- not drilled (me not thrilled about that).

i definitely would not want it any smaller.

 

edit: I do have some random extra brake line, don’t have a fuse box cover, etc. So, who knows what wheel I have?

Edited by sainthoo
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