420S Rainy Season Build in Western Washington

[Timberline]

Hello Everyone! I've got a 420S SV kit on the train arriving in Seattle next week!

 

Words cannot describe how excited I am to finally have parts in hand. Hopefully, these parts are mostly correct enough to start down the build path. I look forward to learning throughout the process and meeting some of the passionate locals. The garage and tools are prepped: coffee for the small problems, porter for the large problems, and scotch for when things come together fantastically or terribly. Thanks in advance for any snag help and advise on the journey.

 

[JohnCh]

12 minutes ago, Timberline said:

The garage and tools are prepped: coffee for the small problems, porter for the large problems, and scotch for when things come together fantastically or terribly.

 

Based on that description, my advice is to not underestimate the amount of porter and scotch you will need on hand.  

 

I see the 620 dash setup.  What is the rest of the spec?

[Timberline]

 

Within the toy, you caught the biggest bell and whistle of the build. Everything else is required due to my height:

• SV Large Chassis
• Lowered Floors
• 620 Style Carbon Dash
• 13 Inch Apollo Wheels
• Quick Release Momo
• Battery Master Cutoff Switch
• Trackday Roll Cage
• Full Weather Gear and Carpets

[JohnCh]

Nice spec! 

[Austin David]

is that 620 dash (with all the switches) the reason I have about a million extra wires and unused (but terminated) connectors under my dash scuttle, and maybe half that many under the hood bonnet?  

 

nice color scheme, that's gonna be pretty sweet on the road

Edited September 6 by Austin David
s/dash/scuttle/

[JohnCh]

There is a separate sub-loom used for the 620 dash.  Mine was on backorder for so long, that I finally cut into the 420 version when redoing my dash.  From what I saw doing that work, it appears Caterham uses one harness for all (most of?) their cars and markets, some of which have specific requirements like a low brake fluid warning light test switch.  From a production perspective it makes sense, as they only need to stock one loom rather than quite a few.  And it removes one more thing they can screw up when putting together a kit   But it certainly adds weight, and complexity when trying to trace everything.

[Timberline]

Kit delivery day! Just like Christmas, but with more crates and cardboard boxes.

 

 

After getting enough of the boxes unpacked, I spread out all the parts on the floor of the garage. This was mostly for fun, but also to get acquainted with all the parts in person. Feels a little like meeting a celebrity; I've seen these parts so much in pictures from other builds, but now they are here!

 

 

Tomorrow I hope to shelve and store the parts and maybe add one to the chassis

[Timberline]

First day of building update. Not news, but the front end bolt placement is really as bad as everyone says it is. Fun tip, the Caterham Car boxes are a good size to support the lower arms.

[Timberline]

Well, I made my first (known) mistake. I missed the wide track bushes on the upright install on the first side because I didn’t know the SV was automatically a wide track. Had to rent a puller as I got the force mate really far on there. Paused my front end progress, so I took the time to install the heater. Picture update with them  corrected!

 

[Timberline]

And… first big concern of the build. After removing the starter, I could see rust on the flywheel teeth. With the bell housing off, it’s on every tooth. How much of a concern is this for the car?

 

 Secondary, there are two fitting bolts and one alternator bolt that have lots of rust. Thinking about swapping them. Are they grounding fasteners or something?

 

These just really stood out among all the shiny brand new parts ✨

[CBuff]

Don’t have insights on fly wheel rust for operation. Since my car was new in June I have been tackling some surface rust issues.  My coil cover bolts looked similar to your alternator. I replaced them. 
 

I am proactively doing some rust prevention on the underside. And the grot traps. Settled on crc. It leaves a yellowish film but seems to be well received 

https://a.co/d/irGFiMD

 

 

also am going to paint portions of the diff.  Seems like caterham grinds down the stock bmw diff housing in certain spots. But doesn’t paint them.  Will grind it down and paint those areas with por 15 top coat.  
 

https://por15.com/products/top-coat?variant=39607017504935&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_source=google&campaign_id=18079280352&ad_id=&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=&utm_content=&utm_term=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw3vO3BhCqARIsAEWblcB-t0V5wM_DxR6_7323rBNvfo-ewPcDzFOalJJwbExk9oppEM9UUigaAjLdEALw_wcB&utm_term=&ad_group_name=&tw_source=google&tw_adid=&tw_campaign=18079280352&gad_source=1&gbraid=0AAAAAC-VAHXlmBFrXN2p_PmH8H_UWjqZF

 

[Timberline]

Thanks for the reply! And I’ll look into finishing the bare differential surfaces.

 

 The really odd thing is that everything is brand new. And just those three bolts have rust. I’ll get over it and buy some replacement bolts.

 

I used acf 50 for the inside of the skin panels. It flashes off to clear and looks nice, thought it’ll need reapplication I think.

[JohnCh]

It looks like you also received the no cost rust option.  I'm pretty sure Caterham views this as added character.  As per the photo below, my engine came with rust on the clutch, pressure plate, and a portion of the flywheel (look closely at the bottom of the photo.)   

 

 

 

 

[Austin David]

My 2021 order came with a new motor dated 2017.  A 420 would be fresher but these just don't sell that fast.  I too had some funny rust I wasn't expecting... After a few miles and rainstorms it seemed to matter less... 

[anduril3019]

That's the problem with these fancy new engines and their functioning oil seals. On a classic British engine rust is one problem you don't often have thanks to the fine coat of oil everywhere.