Project Beatrice. (1999 Birkin S3)

[Jackal]

I also got the backplate drilled and cleaned up for the intake. Unfortunately it looks like ass when the hood is attached. I tried offsetting the backplate to make it look good through the hood opening, but unfortunately because of the way the trumpets fit under the filter I couldn't offset it enough to look good under the hood. It will end up bugging me forever so I imagine I'll be looking for a scoop to cover the hole. So first question to all you fine enthusiasts is where you may find a scoop for covering the hood opening?

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/IMG_9416.jpg

 

 

So I was fitting the hood the other day and attaching the latches, and this problem came up again. I have been using the intake manifold that came with the Jenvey kit. This manifold has a 24 degree incline that does not level out, and creates the unsightly mess you see quoted above. The link to the Jenvey intake manifold drawing is here:

 

http://www.jenvey.co.uk/home/manifold/jenvey-dynamics/manifold-ford-zetec-tb45-mf03/pdf-drawing

 

I found an intake manifold from Raceline here:

 

http://www.raceline.co.uk/products/part_section.asp?SectionID=32&CategoryID=2

 

I have emailed Raceline and hope to hear from them soon, but I know that asking here will give me more specific answers to my application. The image of the Raceline manifold looks like the TB's level out where they mate to the manifold and would solve my challenge with the hood.

 

Has anyone used this combination (Raceline manifold, Jenvey DCOE TB's)? Has anyone with a Birkin used this combo? Any input or picture references I can draw upon?

 

Thanks.

[lancylad]

Duane, if that doesnt work out, try Danst engineering in the UK they build custom manifolds at a reasonable cost.

[anthonyseven]

On my old Birkin (also a 99) I upgraded from Webers to Jenveys. I reused the Weber manifold that was already on the car, so the alignment of the air filters and the bonnet remained the same. Sorry, I can't be of more help.

 

Photos at lotus.changeip.org

[XR4Bill]

Duane,

 

talk to Chris at Unobtanium. He could fix you up with a custom built manifold.

Or make the pieces up yourself and get him to weld it all together.

 

Bill.

[lancylad]

Good suggestion, closer to home as well. Would also be a work of art....

[Jackal]

Based on the timing and the overall cost that prototyping the parts would incur, I decided to order the parts from Raceline.

 

The Yahoo group had suggested a few times to use this particular intake manifold will line up the Jenvey TB's and still have room for the chassis structure, even in the tiny S3. Jenvey verified that this manifold will work with the TB's and help provide maximum power while still conforming to the limited space. Raceline has the parts onhand an can ship them straight away. All this has led me to go this direction instead.

 

Now I wait the few weeks for the parts. Who needs a hood for inspection anyway? :rofl:

[XR4Bill]

progress Duane, thats what we like to hear. Keep it going.

 

Bill.

[Jackal]

So I keep thinking that I have completed the wiring, and then a new item pops up. :banghead:

 

My fault really though. I forgot to run a wire up to the alternator for the exciter, and another for the oil pressure sensor. On the other side, I forgot to run an extra wire for the temp sensor. All of these wires should be easily taken care of by tonight though.

 

The wiper motor with the park feature has been a bit to sort as well, but assuming that I have a park tab on the painless switch and it connects to slow properly, that should be sorted as well.

 

If all goes well tonight, I'll have the scuttle on the car and start the process of bleeding the brakes. Wish me luck.

[lancylad]

We are wishing you luck...not far to go now, you will beat this thing. Blats are just around the corner....

 

:driving:

[Jackal]

So I may need a little help here team. Which wire is the exciter here? is it the same on all T connector Alternators?

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/ED3CD2CA-5845-4647-9BB1-456D02A0F2F7-5898-0000080EF88B865D_zps15d96664.jpg

[jlumba81]

Use a voltmeter, take off belt and spin by hand?

[Jackal]

Use a voltmeter, take off belt and spin by hand?

 

I guess that would work, I'd need to be spinning the pulley while terminating the exciter wire on the back of the alternator, all the while metering the output to see if it worked. That's a bit to handle so I think I'll just get it running and then terminate the exciter when the voltmeter is hooked up.

[Jackal]

So I've been contemplating what to do about this horrible mess.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/8545580C-1967-4FCF-B658-02FE6E686093-6551-0000097BB76276E0_zps2875b3f3.jpg

 

The shop that was working on the car welded in another bung into the overflow tank, but had not thought about how to manage it, then handed it back to me with the extra spigot to figure out.

 

I did a little looking around and found a tank that should work the way I want it set up; with one inlet to the tank and allowing syphon action to fill and empty the tank.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0EF611BD-039F-4FDF-B27E-C55C17FF61AB-6551-0000097C23F79503_zpsb5e86ffd.jpg

 

I like the way the new one looks, but I'll like it better when it's all black. I like that it has a separate tube for me to ensure there is always enough fluid in the tank to allow it to refill the system. There is a dip tube from the top bung that goes all the way to the bottom, and allows the tank to hold the minimum amount required to allow the coolant back into the system.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/B6B81517-AE0A-4C5B-A58F-7E74B531B5A1-6551-0000097BD09C072C_zpsc24bad26.jpg

 

Today I had to rearrange the way the brake lines run to allow space for the overflow tank where I want it.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/0F64F63E-2105-4F33-95E5-C9DD0D7B78CF-6551-0000097BE763E73F_zps8e7fa325.jpg

Edited April 7, 2013 by Jackal

[Jackal]

In working with the coolant today I had a look into the system with the plan to drain it tomorrow. Here's the mess that was found in the coolant system.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/E915F616-7F1F-47F1-9B38-D81CB5A0163C-6551-0000097C02E3652A_zps3cd20c45.jpg

 

It looks like a cross between oil and rust. Remember the results from the shops compression and leakdown tests are:

 

Cyl #1 145psi less then 10% leak-down

Cyl #2 150psi less then 10% leak-down

Cyl #3 150psi less then 10% leak-down

Cyl #4 150psi less then 10% leak-down

 

Could this just be residue, or am I looking at a larger issue? Here's a dip test with a paper towel.

 

http://i99.photobucket.com/albums/l294/nivaguy/68FEBFC8-2110-4F83-BB3E-2649C3059F03-6551-0000097C13855D47_zpsbdd5b99d.jpg

Edited April 7, 2013 by Jackal

[Jackal]

Lots of updates today. Today I think I also got the front brakes sorted and the the clutch bled as well. The whole brake system should be as easy as the clutch though. Open the valve, fill the tank, wait a minute until the fluid comes out the top, system bled. :cooldude:

 

Alright, I still used the pressure bleeder, but no bubbles came out from the get go. I kept bleeding the clutch long after I needed so I was sure though.

 

I started on the battery tie down as well today. Simple setup, but no pictures until its finished tomorrow.

 

As a side note, I submitted the money and forms for the IBC issued VIN today.

 

:party:

Edited April 7, 2013 by Jackal

[Z3 Stalker]

Duane,

I installed the same overflow tank on my Stalker and it works well.

Stewart

[lancylad]

Keep the pace up Duane, I'm getting excited for you, that didn't sound right somehow, anyhow, keep going you are so close now. We have to do a special day for official start up or something.....

[slomove]

Could this just be residue, or am I looking at a larger issue?

 

Hard to say from the pic. Rust is kind of normal but there should not be oil.

Assuming the engine can run, you should flush it with a coolant system cleaner like Bar's Leak according to instructions and then refill with fresh coolant. If the gunk comes back after short time then you do have a problem.

 

When I took the radiator out for the widetrack installation, I flushed with a garden hose. It took a very long time until clear water came out. Over time there is a lot of brownish rusty deposit building up.

[Jackal]

Hard to say from the pic. Rust is kind of normal but there should not be oil.

Assuming the engine can run, you should flush it with a coolant system cleaner like Bar's Leak according to instructions and then refill with fresh coolant. If the gunk comes back after short time then you do have a problem.

 

When I took the radiator out for the widetrack installation, I flushed with a garden hose. It took a very long time until clear water came out. Over time there is a lot of brownish rusty deposit building up.

 

The problem I have with the idea that it is oil, is the compression tests looked good. This was the first time it has been filled with coolant so I'm hoping its just residue.

 

The engine does run, but has not been tuned, so the idle is way off, among other issues with driving it. I was going to drain it today, but I'll take your advice and get a cleaner for it.

[jlumba81]

I used to have a fluke multimeter accessory kit when I was an auto mechanic. Very handy when you don't have enough hands. Also helps if your meter has a min/max function so you don't have to watch it. The oil residue from the radiator could be left over from the manufacturing process. You can also try pressurizing the cooling system and listen for hissing from the oil filler and dipstick. Good progress on the 7. Wish my upgrades were going as well (I've been stalled for a month waiting for parts and machining work).

Edited April 7, 2013 by jlumba81