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Engine removal checklist


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I'm about to take my Kent 1700 out to rework. I didn't put the car together, so I'm looking for a checklist or procedure guide to avoid problems. Additionally I'm having a hard time finding any parts list or exploded view of the crossflow. Is that "Rebuilding and Tuning Ford's Kent Crossflow Engine" worth the money they want for it?

William

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William - sent you a PM on the removal.

 

For the exploded view and parts, the BAT FF catalog has both.

 

http://www.batinc.net/fford.htm

 

I also have the Dave Bean FF catalog, which I could scan and send you as a PDF.

 

I have the Wallage book. Have only used it for general reference, so not sure how useful it would be for leading someone through a rebuild.

 

Steve

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Removing Crossflow

1) You do need to remove the gear shift lever to remove the trans. I don't have carpet on my trans tunnel, and my cover just pulls off. I think some trans covers are screwed into the tunnel. It's a bit of a wrestling match to get the cover off. Loosening the handbrake cable will allow the handbrake lever to go almost vertical and make it easier to get the cover off - although I've gotten mine off just be pulling the lever up as far as possible. Once the cover is off, it's 3 bolts to remove the lever. I haven't had to remove the seats - don't think you would either, but if you have carpet on the trans tunnel, that may change things.

 

2) I opted to split the engine from the bell housing and pull the engine out by itself. Advantage to that is that trans fluid won't be pouring out of the tail of the trans - which it does as soon as the trans isn't level. You need to get the engine pretty vertical to pull it out this way, and it's tight - but it's doable. Lots of pros and cons of this approach on Blatchat (http://www.blatchat.com/). The search function works well. Just change the time period to "Since from the beginning".

 

3) May want to cover the front frame members with pipe insulation to protect the powder coating.

 

4) If you take the engine/trans out together, be sure to disconnect the backup light connection and the speedometer cable. Brake light connection is on the right hand side of the tail. I think there are several styles of connections. Mine is like a 9 volt battery, and just pulls off. I think there is a newer style connection with two poles, but believe it also just pulls off. If you don't remove both, the trans will never come out.

 

5) There are two ways to disconnect the trans mount from the trans mounting plate on the chassis. You can undo the large bolt that connects the rubber mount to the transmission (there is an access hole in the mounting plate and spacer), or undo the two bolts connecting the mount to the chassis. I opted for the later. If you undo the large bolt, I've read that there is small lip on the rubber mount, and the tail of the trans may need to be lifted a bit to get over it.

 

6) Have a leveler for the engine hoist. Makes life much easier, and if you remove the engine separately you won't be able to get it out without one. I also found it extremely helpful when I put the engine/trans back in - and they went back in as one unit.

 

7) I have a bell housing plate between the bell housing and engine. Mine is split, and I know I ended up wrestling to get it removed before I could get the engine separate enough to start to remove. Not an issue if the engine/trans comes out as a unit.

 

8) Clutch cable or hydraulic? Mine is hydraulic, and I undid the connection to the clutch arm so I could remove the slave cylinder from the bell housing without having to drain and remove the hose. If it's a cable, guess you just have to get it off the clutch arm.

 

9) Be sure to disconnect the fuel line from the fuel pump - assuming that you're using the mechanical pump on the Crossflow.

 

You also need to remove the alternator. In general, I would takes notes, draw schematics for conntections, label wires, and take pictures.

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Food for thought -

after spilling gear oil I learned it's easier to: elevate the car on wooden timbers, then remove the prop shaft and lower the engine/gear box assembly onto a wheeled dolly.

I've got a duratec birkin so this may not work as easily for you as me.

 

just remember how good it'll feel to be back on the road again...

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  • 1 year later...

Document it using your phone camera.

Take a lot of shot -- every bolts & part you take out, take a shot.

You will be surprised how much the pictures will help you during the re-assembling.

 

Buy a zip lock - tape & magic pen. Put all the bolts & nuts in the zip lock and label it. Use the tape for the hoses & wires and label it.

Buy a couple of 5 gallon home depot or lowes plastic pale and store your parts there.

Edited by BusaNostra
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My exhaust manifold is a four branch, each one separate. So what's the big deal? They will only fit back through the hole in the body and attach to the engine in a particular order. I was warned ahead of time so I took photos, marked each pipe 1 thru 4 and made note of how they came off the engine and out the hole.

2 weeks later when I put it back together I figured how hard can that be, 30 frustrating minutes later I was referring to my notes and photos.

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"I figured how hard can that be, 30 frustrating minutes later I was referring to my notes and photos."

 

Hahahaha! compare to the rotary I did. This probably a car that live & die in the vacuum connections. One wrong connection of the vacuum, you are toast for the day looking for problem. What you see here in blue & in black vacuum hoses which we called it "RAT'S NEST" I must have a gazillion of pictures. This thing is worse than two plates of spaghetti.

Hundreds of vacuum connections !!

Let me see you put this back.

ratsnest3.jpg

Edited by BusaNostra
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