ianashdown

Can anyone confirm that a Twin Cam will fit under the Hood/Nose on a Series 2 Seven or not? My 105E block is damaged beyond economic repair and I’m trying to make a decision between building a mildly tuned 120E or possibly a Twin Cam, which would make the Seven quite exciting even in near standard tune. Thank you, Ian San Clemente, CA

Can anyone let me know if 105E and 120E heads are interchangeable, similar or not alike in any way? Also, can a 105E block be bored to 83.5mm dia? Thanks, Ian

The official S2 manual states that the brake M/C is 3/4” Ian

Anyone in the LA area have a Caterham crate that is no longer needed? I’m trying to justify sending my ‘61 Lotus 7 chassis back to Arch for repair and the cost of a new crate is super expensive in LA/OC. Thanks! Ian

Congrats on your purchase! Enjoy the restoration. Ian

My impression of the conversion kits I’ve seen is that the look a bit ‘cheesy’. I hoping there is a front upright/spindle/wire wheel swap that I can do. Other cars had live axles and wire wheels at the rear so I feel like there should be something period authentic that could work. The car will be staying at 1000cc so while weight is super important so is appearance. I’m just considering options while I’m too lazy to actually get in the garage and do something! Ian

Looking way too far ahead I’m thinking about the final color, finishes and parts for my ‘61 Lotus 7! The car was originally white with red trim and will be that again. I’m still uncertain how many of the aluminum panels will need to be replaced so the white paint could be all panels, if I can re-use most of the panels, or if I have to replace them, only the fiberglass will be painted white, the panels will be polished. The question of wheels is still up for discussion. Silver Minilite style alloy wheels is one option, and the other is silver painted wire wheels, which I think look very ‘period’, which is the style I’m aiming at for the car. My car has the Standard 10 axle with drum brakes so I’m wondering how the splined stub-axle is attached. I assume the wheels used are Triumph Spitfire which should be an easy conversion for the front, I’m just not sure how it is best done at the rear so it looks authentic. Any insights appreciated! Ian Here’s a good looking example.

You will need to explore the type of welds on the original chassis and the repair section. If either part are Arch built it will be Nickel Bronze Brazed. You will not be able to TIG close to any Brazed joint. Nickel Bronze is a low temperature repair, and in my opinion ideal for this type of repair, but there are relatively few in the US who can do it in the way Arch does. I did a similar repair to a Formula Ford many years ago and it is quite difficult, given the hand built nature of these chassis. There are small dimensional variations. Be very thorough checking, measuring, etc before you cut. A basic jig or fixture would be a very good idea. Good luck! Ian

Thank you!

The other one from Mike Brotherwood does also fit perfectly. I actually like the straight levers appearance better, but I’m not sure how it would work unbent. I assume it can be bent fairly easily. I had a plan to keep both until final build, but if you are hurting for a lever I’d be OK letting it go. The price for this was not inexpensive however, I’m in to it for $463. It that can work for you, then great! If not, plan A lives on. All the best, Ian

You just reminded me of the essence of the 7! Its also the cheap way, much like ACBC! Ian

Things are moving ahead slowly, mostly due to very long work hours, but there is minor progress. I'll post some pictures of the finished Screen assembly soon. One decision I have to make it whether I should fit a heater or not. The car did not come with one, probably due to its, low level, competition past. A few things, handbrake, wipers, heater (it was in Arizona!), hood frame etc., were clearly jettisoned for weight savings. I'm in Southern California and I do not think lack of heat will be my issue, probably the opposite, but should the heater be fitted for authenticity? Was it possible to option these cars when ordered, without a heater? My 1956 MGA, long gone, was a California car and came from the factory without a heater, just a nice cover plate, so it was not unheard of in 'the day'. I appreciate any thoughts and opinions. Of course, if the answer is "yes, it should have one", you know the next question . . . where can one be had? Thanks! Ian

Quick update of the Handbrake saga. The Caterham lever seems to fit perfectly. I just bolted it up finger tight but it fits like it was made to go there, and the ratchet and release mechanism works well. Now it’ll just come down to finding a cable, but that’ll be a couple of years down the road. Ian

Birkin Project https://www.copart.com/lot/79700493/2010-lotus-coupe-ca-sacramento Was any member here the previous owner of this Birkin? Just wondering if there is any more information available. Thanks, Ian

You make some really good points! I especially like Bear Claws, my Saturday morning breakfast of choice, and they all different 😋😜. Sorry, couldn’t resist! I guess this it what you get when the cars are all hand built and with a variety of spec’s. Mine was originally a BMC powered car, but the 105E was fitted in ‘64 or ‘65, it too has the Triumph shifter extension. My tunnel seems to have been made to run with the front part open, the edges are nicely rolled, but a Fwd cover was supplied although I’m not sure how exactly it will fit. I guess I’ll keep both until I get to a more complete assembly stage; one of them will fit! Thanks, Ian SoCal