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I think you will find 18psi a bit low for street, but a good starting point for track. I think most aim for 21-24 hot - and you won't get that much gain on street. I start at 17 cold first session usually then bleed off as the day warms up. I'm running 2.5deg ears. On ZZS I had very uneven wear (pretty much entire outside half of tire) with 1.5deg. I swapped to 2.0 ears but also changed to ZZR around the same time. The wear is much better but still some shoulder wear so I recently swapped to 2.5deg ears when I did the race rear brake upgrade. I was concerned it might be too much, but balance still feels good though it's too early to say on tire wear. Gonna get proper tire temps next day out on track and find out. They make a 2.0 in the race ears so I can always drop back down. They have a 3.0 also but I assume that is intended for slicks only.

Price lowered...

Yes, 888R and 18psi cold as a start point. Are you running the stock de-dion ears in the back?

Also - re: caster - I'm one washer away from max and steering effort is very high on track. People that have driven my car think it's ridiculous. It is very fatiguing actually, but I enjoy it. I just imaging I'm driving a 70s F1 car. On the street it's fine though. ARB choice and rear setting will vary on other factors, especially your spring rates. I think I have the orange bar (can't remember actually - whatever comes with the "track" setup) and I'm at one hole from full stiff on rear bar.

You are on 888R? Not sure how much camber they like but I am running 3deg with ZZR and wear is good. I might bump to 2.5 and see how you wear - depends on your street/track balance of driving. I run zero toe because I prefer the feel. I run my ride height quite low 119mm/138mm - this puts front LCA parallel with ground. This puts bell housing clearance at 68mm which sounds scary but I've had no issues. I've even driven over a speed bump or two. Do you happen to know the spring rates on the cup suspension? Your push is probably just because you aren't getting heat into the front tires. I wouldn't judge car setup based on that tbh. Besides, that is easily fixed with a gentle prod of the throttle- rear will come right around, especially on cold tires on the street. These cars really can't do what they were meant to do/are capable of on the street. They are surprisingly fast and capable on track.

absolutely! Just ordered a new “ABP” lid. Once the car gets some more wringing out on the back roads she’s headed to Laguna. speaking of which I am looking for track alignment recommendations. The research I’ve seen so far is 135mm front ride height, 15mm rake, red front bar, 2.8-3 front camber, max caster, and about a 1.0-1.5 front toe out. currently I am at about -1.8 front camber, zero toe, 135 front height, 15mm rake, and on the orange front bar. Shocks are set at “7” all around (cup 420 shocks). handles ok but tends to push a bit w more steering input (only backroads driving)

Don't you just hate when this happens! I know it has happen to me and I'll be danged if I know what I did wrong, if anything.

triple post lol

triple post

Looking good - you gonna get that sucker out to the track?

If you need any more convincing of what the see through filter looks like I have a few videos uploaded

MV-8 has some good suggestions on plumbing the system. Checking to make sure the instillation is correct is always a good idea. You might also have some corrosion issues clogging the system and making the system hard to bleed. I am afraid this testing will probably not work for you because I assume you have already flushed your coolant, but it may help in the future. A major source of corrosion in cooling systems is the result of the coolant turning acid. Acid and dissimilar metals make a battery and accelerate the corrosion. Your battery is grounded to the engine block and bad grounds can cause corrosion. You can actually check the condition of your coolant with a volt ohm meter that will read millivolts. A good web site to learn about coolants and preventing corrosion is: No-Rosion Products Home Page

Bingo. I changed the thermostat on my Elise. The original thermostat had a stupid seal whose only function was to become dislodged and block the thermostat open. Since changing the thermostat on an Else is a lot of work copared to most cars, I didn't want to go there twice. I did the saucepan test on the new (no stupid useless seal) thermostat before jacking up the car, removing the right-rear wheel, removing the alternator and other bits, etc.

This does not seem to be the case with my Caterham. The heater control on my car is a water valve on the heater hose. When the heat is turned off, the line is schematically "capped", not "looped", so if the heater is removed, the lines should be capped. The question for the current thread becomes: What sort of heater control does, or did, the subject car have?

@ BeardyMcWeirdy - A beautiful car and an outstanding build! I have the same chassis with a 2.3 Ford Ecoboost. Would you help me with some information on your wheels and seats? Specifically; make and offset on the wheels and make and size (width) of your seats. Anaximander (I think) recommended high back seats when I first posted here and I'd like to follow through on his thoughtful suggestion. Plus, I really like those wheels.

Mmmmm... Mandalorian you quote, Words wise these are!

Plenty of progress has been made over the past few weeks. Headers arrived and installed. This car will have a carbon muffler, the stainless is just for testing. Of course carbon looks nice, but the biggest advantage is the fact that it won't burn you like the stainless will - I made that mistake after the first test drive... And still have the mark to prove it! The car has now been successfully tuned, and has about 50 miles on her. I used Alex Hickson over at Digitune in the UK (Obviously a remote tune) First time using him and it was a very pleasant experience. Look forward to working with him more down the road. I'm pleasantly surprised how peppy she it, it's a nice balance of power for such a light chassis. My personal car is pushing a lot more power, this was the car I was most anxious to "feel" for comparison. She's no slouch! Seems like it took forever to get the protective coating off the rotors, just so hard to build heat in the brakes. But they are working great now. The only puzzler was that the car would continue to run for 2-3 seconds after shutting her down - but only intermittently, and only after a longer drive. Turns out that if you cut off the ignition while the cooling fan was on, it would turn into a generator as it spun down - keeping the ECU and coils alive. Slapped a 50A diode in there and the mystery is solved. Still have a few odds and ends to finish up here, and a few parts coming in on the next container from MK (Seats, muffler, rear bulkhead, etc) she's quite close to being complete.

AGM is indeed Lead Acid family. Don't use Lithium. Lithium is higher voltage, there's no trickle mode which LeadAcid needs and it might overcharge it on Lithium setting. Good call on asking!

This is the way!

My understanding, and I am not a battery authoritarian, is that the Lead-Acid setting would be a better match. AGM batteries are lead-acid, with a mat added, so the chemical processes are more like L-A than like Lithium. But then, at less than 3 amps and a maintaining circuit, I don't imagine your damaging it either way.

There are some topics on this center mirror blocking. Some folks lower it down, others raise it way up and some remove as you have done. I usually street drive with the windshield (but a lowered mirror). https://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/topic.asp?h=0&f=101&t=1266391

I have an AGM-type battery in my Caterham. I have a 3-amp charger/maintainer which has two settings: Lead-Acid and Lithium I am assuming that the Lithium setting is the kinder/gentler setting and can't harm an AGM battery. Am I safe in assuming this?

The power port certainly came in handy while I was in Texas for the Lotus Owners Gathering last fall. You see, the battery in my iPhone SE was past its prime. I just got an iPhone 16 Pro. As many of you know, Apple retired the Lightning connector in favor of USB-C. The most-logical cables to use seem to be USB-C/USB-C. So I picked up three car-chargers with USB-C ports: one for 74PHIL, one for KMAN 2.9 and one for the motorhome. (The F-150 has a USB-C port.) Plugged one into KMAN 2.9. Tiny pilot light lit. Cable charged phone. Plugged one into 74PHIL. No light. Cable did not charge phone. Checked 5A inline fuse on the car. Blown. Opened box for third car-charger. Measured both car-chargers with ohm meter. Unit three tested open, as it should. Unit two did not. Replaced fuse and tried unit three in 74PHIL. Works fine. Unit two is going back to Best Buy. It was obviously not the best buy.

Very close to being completely done. At this point I've stopped counting hours. The last big job on the list was to cut the bonnet for the RBTB...I've been putting this off for a while, and driving the car without the air filter. Figured I shouldn't do that too much longer and finally got the guts to go for it. Used a combination of dremel, tin snips, and a file, Think it turned out ok! Also took off the central mirror (blocked vision) and installed the two side mirrors instead. Much better for being able to see around RH corners.

Very interested in this car. Email me at rkrinc@aol.com