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Maybe I misspoke, the pump cycles when the power (IE: cut off) is turned on, but kicks off 5-10 seconds later, car turns off normally with the regular key. Pump does not continuously run. I'll start with the basics you laid out hopefully next week, once all the parts have arrived (tuesday/wednesday time frame)..Until then the car remains stagnant, unless I get motivated to do the oil and oil filter before then. Bill

If you saying the pump runs as soon as the battery is connected but with the key off, then it sounds like the CAT sourced T2 is configured for pump control but is miswired for power to the ecu or the pump. If the T2 had power all the time I expect you would not be able to shut it off with the key (ignition stays on as well). I'd pull the pump relay and see if the pump still runs and do the same with just the fuse pulled. If it stops, trace from the relay to power and ground on the relay control terminals. The fuse socket should not be shorted to more than one terminal of the relay socket.

Thanks, I'll give them a call

The Pactel ECU is still used in the SCCA formula continental cars. These cars use a modified Zetec engine. Engine builders who build these engines might be a source. You might try Quicksilver Race Engines (301-698-9009)

Greetings, Yes, I think anything and everything should be all inclusive. I have a Caterham R400, but I have great respect for anyone who scratch builds their own car. To me any of the Lotus 7 and its clones are very cool. Thank you for moving the post here. I do hope it get traction. Let's see if other's raise their hands. MAX

I've got some wonderful news. Carrabelle is a small port on the Gulf of Mexico, so we have a fiberglass repair shop that generally repairs boats that have lost in fights with solid objects. I took my "beyond repair" fenders and snout to them and asked them if they could prep for painting. "We can do that" was the answer. Two days later they showed me the flared front fenders - smooth as glass. Gorgeous. Reinforced as needed on the back side. I'll see the rest and post some pictures soon. I'll also tell you what it cost. As near as I can tell, having searched diligently, there is no source for old Sevens fenders and snouts in the US. Redline is gearing up to produce more, but a set for my S2 would push $2K with shipping. I'm really happy to have found an alternative.

The Pectel T2 was sourced after the car was pulled out of it's 20 foot Sealand style container here in the US from Caterham USA, along with the "stage 1" engine (I know this included a cam change, but have no clue as to what cam, or anything else that included for the 10K plus the original owner was charged), I have those general emails. The in tank fuel pump kicks in and builds pressure when the battery disconnect is turned on, then kicks off once pressure builds. I found this out yesterday when testing another battery cut off key I had in my toolbox from an old race car. It fit, and works, so that is one less thing I need to order as a back up. I have 30lb/hr high impedance fuel injectors on order, besides oil (5 quarts I believe for the Caterham wet sump pan) and an oil filter (I'll pick those up today), everything is on it's way. Now the only thing I do not have is a computer cable for the T2 to laptop, have no idea exactly what I need, can you assist with a part number or a supplier for this? Appreciate everything you have offered this fellow Pectel T2 (amateur) owner. Bill

First offer please

The one that spitfun then I owned is going to be for sale shortly. R1 powered and well put together car.

He has not. The source of the T2 and the programming have not been shown. These are programmable outputs. If you look at a Pectel pinout for the T2, it clearly states "high impedance only" with the pins in your diagram listed as fuel control being programmable outputs. Fuel pump control is not the default from Pectel, so if the T2 is from CAT and programmed by CAT, and was part of the rover package, then it is likely to have the controls you've described.

I think there is interest. Beachman Racing organized a short tour for his customers centered out of Suncadia in 2023. Then, last summer, some customers jumped in to help plan a follow-up tour to Walla Walla, which had 9 or 10 cars. My understanding is they want to keep these going, which is great, but I'm not clear on the actual appetite to proactively open it up to all brands. I've heard the organizers aren't opposed to the idea, but the name of the private FB group is PNW Caterham Club, which doesn't exactly sound welcoming to a non-Caterham owner. Personally, I'm more interested in multi-marque se7en tours and get togethers. For me, it doesn't matter if it's a Locost built for the GRM $2000 challenge, a Donkervoort F22, or anything in between (including a real Lotus). I love seeing the different approaches. Hopefully others will chime in with their interest level. BTW moving this to the Pacific forum to aid future discoverability but will leave a forward link in General Discussions for a month.

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You have already figured out the ECU runs the pump before you crank the engine. Pactel ECUs also turn the pump off if the engine loses oil pressure. That assumes it is wired correctly. The fuel injection system you have is now supported and sold by Borla. The blue thing in the picture of the fuel injector is the pressure regulator and there should be a tank return line. I am not 100% sure but I believe that the Pectel ECU can support either low or high impedance injectors. You might want to check or just replace with a known good crank sensor. They go bad, and they are cheap. It is located on the exhaust side of the engine and reads off the flywheel.

Greetings Fellow 7 Enthusiast, This is just a general question if anyone would like to get together sometime this spring/summer/fall for a little meet and drive with our Lotus 7 based cars? Nothing firm, just finding out if there is a desire for folks to meet and create a community in the Pacific Northwest. Regards, Orange Max ,

Just checked the whole harness as far back as I could see without viewing a resistor pack. Really hate to cut a line with a factory end on it, however, I think you are on to something with the Fram G3727 , I had thought about a ACDelco GF952,(5.75 x 2.44 x 2.37 inches) might grab both and see which fits better, with less adapters. May bite the bullet and pull the old one to see if there is a part number on the back of it. Doubt it, but you never know Two new pictures showing actual length (not the 6.5" with all the adapters) but a hair over 4", real close to the Fram 4.35" height Thank you once again for giving me leads.

Looks like a Chevrolet fuel filter common through the late 90s, plus adapters to fit the hard lines. Look up a 1990 c1500 pickup for an application. Wix 33481 and Fram G3727 are a couple part numbers. The rubber fuel hose near the filter can be replaced by cutting the sleeve over the end, then use a flat screwdriver to bend the edges out and pull it off with pliers. Use a hose clamp. If you wanted to rearrange, you could use a late 80s s10 fuel filter with a hose barb on the tank end and an inverted flare brake line on the fuel rail end, wix 33483 or use the ranger filter. Many options.

Have you checked for a resistor pack between the ECU and injectors? It's possible someone added something to compensate for the low impedance.

The paperwork I have from Pectel showed a WIN 98 or WIN XP platform, I have the CD, but have yet to load it on my old Windows 10 laptop. I may blow the dust off it and see if it will load and open the program. Thanks Bill

Motivated after a full pot of coffee and a bagel this am, the car is now up in the air (or as far as I can get it), hood is off, and I've had a chance to crawl under to look things over. Found a nice tidy Caterham sump, really nice install of the harnesses, although I've got a drop of oil on the floor, but it's not coming from the pan, I'll figure that one out. Injectors are a "D1610BA" which translate to a 30lb/hr low impedance unit, I'm wondering how long they have been installed, too clean to be the originals, but they have to go as the Percel unit specifies high impedance injectors. Fuel filter is a mystery item, as I cannot find a part number on it, the body itself is 3" long, have not figured out threading yet, almost afraid to take it off as it may be under pressure. Don't want to spray myself with fuel. With the current induction setup, shouldn't one of the butterflies be slightly open on a cold start? These are all adjusted the same, closed.. Aside from that, the spark plugs are Autolite 5364s, the gap right out of the box and not new, wires, while NGK units, are self made, and semi questionable. Coil is a stock Ford unit (2003 dated). Besides the MSD coil and wire set, I'm going to bump up to the XP5364 (Iridium tip), oil and filter change, and try to figure out a replacement high impedance injector (does not have to be much larger than the 30lb/hr, if larger at all). Any one that can assist, or perhaps guide me a little here or there, as always, the assistance is greatly appreciated. Bill

I live in golden valley az (about 300 miles from LA) have 30 acres and room in my shop for emergencies. It is a long miserable trip from LA but is on the way for those escaping. john

I am following this topic as I have an old haltech (e6ex i think) that uses ms dos, and I haven't established the windows 10 will get the job done. Thanks to all here as for me every day is a learning experience.

Hey Craig - can I come by sometime soon to pick up the other parts that you were holding onto for me?

Many have adapted efi by running power directly from the ignition to an efi pump or relay. The issue can be flooding or hydraulic lock of a cylinder due to an "in the moment" leaking injector. That is partly why pumps only run for a few seconds during initial cranking. Also, direct power means the pump may continue to pump after an accident, spraying or misting fuel from cracked or broken fuel lines. Safety shutoffs used by oems over the years include vane air flow sensors (mazda), oil pressure (GM), and a resettable inertia switch (Ford) and other mfgs with different combinations but typical of these three mfgs through the 90s at least. If the injectors are new to the ecu (could be bigger and not yet tuned) and low impedance, the injector drivers inside the ecu can be overheated and ruin the ecu. Pectel T2 specifies "high impedance only". I would determine what you have before running it again but it probably would have already ruined the ecu already with the first drive. I like to use a common ford application fuel filter which is also an effective fuel tank vacuum break expansion canister vent (mounted vertical with the upper hose bent around and extending to near the bottom of the chassis). One application is a '94 ford ranger. It has 5/16 barbs made for quick disconnect nylon hose fittings. 5/16 efi hose can be pushed directly on and clamped or the nylon quick disconnect fittings used with nylon or rubber hose installed on the fitting. You may be able to use your current lap top to install XP in a DOS shell, but it would be dirt cheap to find an old lap top and use a power converter to plug it into the car if a new, replacement lap top battery is not available.

Car still not on jack stands/ramps, hoping to get that done today so I can get a look under the car. Pectel is a T2, with 24K miles on the car, at least 8,000 with the Zetec engine installed, I have to believe the ECU is tuned well, so I'm going to hold off trying to find a XP laptop and cable to communicate with it. Ordered a new MSD coil pack and wire set Have not decided on plugs yet, once it's on stands, I will to identify, then replace with new Have a note on the windscreen to check fuel injectors to see if they are high or low impedance (research shows Pectel uses high impedance), may want to replace, still doing research. Fuel filter is a must to replace once I find and identify. Also need to check all fuel lines and fittings, I do not smell gas, but they are 23 years old... Need to pull the air filter (on stands) and check to see if anything is loose on the induction system. Once the car is running with new parts, will check for vacuum leak(s). Anything else come to mind? Thanks in advance Bill

@IamScotticus, that’s are really nice airbox, thanks for sharing it. I think it I need to change my setup! I also appreciate the link on the S4 development. I had not previously seen it. This Forum is truly amazing!