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  2. For the m8 alt bolts, you could use dom tube (5/8, 0.148 wall) or 1/4 gas pipe. For the m10 head bolts, dom tube 3/4, 0.165 wall. For a close fit to the head bolts, you might have to rotary file or ream slightly depending on the dom/pipe and bolt tolerances, dom 5/8, 0.120 wall or 1/4 gas pipe. The pipe has a weld ridge inside that is easily filed down. DOM is drawn over a mandrel to flatten the inside weld bead. You can find short pieces of dom offered on ebay if your local metal supplier doesn't stock it. The fit to the tube spacers is not critical. The holes in the plate align. The gas pipe is easy to find but needs more work (sanding inside and out, and filing the weld bead inside).
  3. Like on my Westfield, some of the electronics are controlled by switches on the steering wheel. However, unlike the Westfield where these switches are hardwired with a coiled cord running from the steering wheel hub to the back of the dash, for the Caterham I'm using the Freewheel kit which is wireless and has some PDM control. Green buttons are turn signals which self-cancel based on an adjustable timer and pressing them concurrently triggers the hazards. The blue button toggles between high and low beams when the dash mounted headlight switch is on or operates as a flash-to-pass button when that switch is off. The small black button will either be used to control the resettable trip odometer or single wipe functionality. The single wipe function is more interesting but will be seldomly used, whereas the trip odometer is used every time I fill up the tank. With the AiM, you either need to go through a few menus to reset it or install a dedicated shortcut button. Since I want that one push experience, it's either add it to the dash or the wheel. The large black button in the center is the horn. I'm having the Caterham 7 logo laser engraved on it which will make it look more intentional. Although I'm using this same switch on the Westfield, the steering wheel spokes on that car are true black, unlike the very dark gray of the Momo, so the button doesn’t stand out to the same degree. Hopefully the logo makes it visually more interesting. My initial plan was to make the switch holder plate out of aluminum, but I went down the rabbit hole of drawing it in CAD and 3D printing a mockup to visualize it and play with button locations to ensure they are comfortable for me to operate. I then realized 3D printing gives me additional flexibility for wire management as I can print in channels to hold the wires then small cover plates to hide them from view. The final version will be printed with more care and should look good in the carbon fiber nylon used elsewhere on the car. I'll post pictures of the wire management later. Lastly, I played around with making a low-profile oil filler cap. The rough mockup works surprising well. I need to make a very minor tweak then print it with finer resolution settings out of the carbon fiber nylon, but I think this is the direction I'll go. Although I'm not a fan of an oil filler cap that requires a tool, the square shape is sized to fit a 3/8" driver. Since I always carry tools with me, I will always have one of those in the car. I may also print up a small tool that I mount under the bonnet to make it even more convenient. I'll post more updates this weekend after the engine and transmission are in. I've already had a few interesting discoveries with that process. -John
  4. A few random updates I'll break into two posts. First, the 3rd-brake light is installed. I purchased an unused Beachman Racing setup from someone on the forum. The mount is beautifully machined from aluminum and is normally installed in its natural state, but having that as the only piece of brightwork on the car seemed a bit out of place. A light sanding, then shooting it with primer followed by Rustoleum Satin Black which is a decent match for the powder coating used by Caterham, and it blends in with the rollbar. Running the wire through the rollbar was not as daunting as it sounds. I ran safety wire, which is thin yet stiff, from the exit hole on the bottom of the rollbar up to the entry hole on the top, grabbed it with a pick, pulled it to the hole, then reached in with forceps to grab the wire and pull it out. Wires from the light were then twisted to the safety wire and sealed together with adhesive lined heatshrink to avoid separation in the middle of the rollbar, and finally the whole affair was pulled through the rollbar. Drill holes were painted to prevent corrosion and the holes were sealed with liquid gasket to prevent water ingress. Worked great. When buttoning up the rear suspension, I discovered an interesting problem with the axle nuts. These are handed with left-hand threads on the driver's side and normal, right-hand threads on the passenger side. The bottom of both nuts were 41mm, but the top of each was larger and required a 42mm socket to engage the full height of the nut. The delta between top and bottom was larger on the driver's-side nut and this difference was visible to the naked eye. Not a problem per se, but I don’t' recall seeing this in the past with any nuts. Once a 42mm socket arrived, they went on without issue. The photo below shows the driver's side nut dropped into a 41mm socket, with the greater than 41mm portion sitting above the surface. -John
  5. Thanks I like that design so I am going to do a mock-up this weekend to see how the alternator fit! The head bolts are m10 and the water pump are m8.
  6. will want to separate the shell from the frame to inspect for rust. ground up rustoration.
  7. So I had a little trouble fitting the 3/4 DD x 5/8 u-joint on the Mazda steering shaft, so I ordered the 16mm equivalent to see if that gives me the extra wiggle room to fit it on. In the mean time I turned my attention to wrapping the rear harness so I can install the fuel tank. After discussing some options I opted for convoluted tube wrapped in Tesa tape. First I taped all the joints to keep the harness shape, then I removed the harness and fitted the convoluted tubing (in the comfort of my living room.) Once I was happy with the fit, I started to wrap with the Tesa tape. I have ever seen or used Tesa tape before, and my first impressions are what an amazing product! It looks good, it feels quality and its very easy to handle and apply. I chose the high temp tape 51036. The finished loom looks factory quality...well almost! 😜. The only downside I found was that it takes away some of the flex in the wiring so fitting it back on the car took some fettling, especially in the rear near the fuel filter where the loom splits and feeds into the diff area. For my grounds I used a dremel to clear away the powder coat and installed a washer to provide more surface area contact. (Picture shows it not fully screwed in). Fuel tank With the rear harness in place, I turned my focus on the fuel tank. My plan was to install the hose connectors and hoses before installing the tank, however both the 12mm hose and one of the connectors were missing from the kit. Instead, I fitted what I had and then installed the tank on the car. Time to order more parts....
  8. Yesterday
  9. I haven't given it a try yet but I'd imagine that it would be very notchy. I made it more as "just to do it" kind of thing.
  10. how does it feel while driving? I don't have a target weight. if I wanted to save a few hundred grams I could leave my phone at home. Having done some braining and some research I may try to fill it with silicone, which seems to be a good, inexpensive vibration dampener. I wanted to test it in a Miata last week on a road trip, but the treads are 10x1.25 in the Miata, and 10x1.50 in my Caterham.
  11. Got bored at work so I did a little research into the whole balsa wood shift knob thing. We usually have balsa wood scraps lying around so I whipped one up. I could probably get a little more weight out of it by lightening the aluminum threaded insert and making it a little bit smaller (it's currently 1.85" in diameter), but 17g is pretty darn light. So if you want the lightest possible knob that's probably the way to go.
  12. I had that car by Anson. S2 1500 with Caterham paint, oversized Minilites, BDR seats, functional steering, live axle. You were lucky to find one with the windscreen fitted properly. They claimed to be 1:18 scale but the Ansons were much larger than the Kyoshos, which were more accurate. The Anson is probably the largest 7 diecast available besides the Kyosho 1:12 BDR, which isn't Diecast but real aluminum panels attached to a plastic space frame. I had to remove my Anson's seats and steering wheel and over spray them in black, an obvious detail Im surprised the diorama build omitted. Plenty of these cars on Ebay
  13. This should make it more clear. The spacers and plate can be low carbon mild steel or thick walled aluminum tube. The alternator is designed to be supported by just the material around the attachment bolts. There is no need to spread the load across the case. The water pump bolts should be a 1/4 inch longer. If you tell me the head bolt and alt bolt sizes, I can tell you what size pipe or dom to use. The placement of the alt on the plate is a guess based on the chassis clearance.
  14. Maybe this will give you some ideas. Common steel plate and gas pipe or dom tube. No extra long studs. No welding. The pipe/dom needs to be cut or ground square though.
  15. Last week
  16. And the Pyrotect custom tank finally arrived - so far all looks good, I just need to find imperial socket heads to mount the the Nuke CFC Unit, which is designed for M6 socket heads. It didn’t even cross my mind, as Pyrotect sells standard tanks directly to Nuke as well. The welding is just awesome on it, but unfortunately it will be also a constant reminder of a level, that I will never reach… I’ll need to remove the roll cage from the 7 to swap tanks next.
  17. Lots of work but not much ‘completed’ in the past week. I fitted up the oil pan which is definitely the lowest part of the car. Plan to weld on some sacrificial metal pieces a little lower to protect it. I have is moroso 20142. It is a racing baffled pan that holds 7quarts and is 6 inches deep. Minehart recommends the stock corvette ls3 oil pan which I think is 4.85 inches deep but it only holds 5.5 qts and doesn’t have a racing baffle. Being concerned with oil starvation in the high g and sustained g turns I am also adding a 3qt canton oil accumulator. Nice benefit on that is I am also going to use it to pre-lubricate the engine before first start. To do that I just used a plastic hanger piece, opened the valve and then while pressing the hanger part into the accumulator I simultaneously opened the tire style valve on the back of the pump. This allowed me to press the piston inside the accumulator all the way back. Plan now is when ready I will fill the accumulator with 3 qts of oil and wire it to the oil pan in port and then pump up the tire valve. This should then force the 3 qts of oil through the system so I won’t have a dry start! I though I was ready to wire up the fuel tank but then realized the ls1 engine with a stock fuel rail doesn’t have a fuel return line like my old 3800 sc does. To overcome that I bought a post pump fuel filter that has another fuel pressure regulator incorporated into it. So if pressure in that filter hits 58 psi it is routed back to my gas tank without even making the trip up to the engine. Nice benefit if that is one less hose running through the transmission tunnel. Finally with the help of my son and his 3d printing skills I started to design an alternator mount that will allow the alternator to be flipped backwards (pulley facing the engine). I looked for hours at every type of alternator bracket on the market with no luck. Every time I found one that I though would work I would measure only to realize the alternator would hit the frame, suspension mount, driveshaft, water pump or hood. Good thing is if I get this figured out my plan is to send the 3d models to sendcutsend.com and then anyone else that needs them can do the same.
  18. That is one way good way to do it. FWIW, the oem type dorman rail fitting is not for nylon tube but teflon lined rubber hose to slip on and clamp though it MIGHT be ok. Nylon requires a very tight fit since there is no clamp. It can be very difficult to insert a fitting into nylon without special tools. The reason they switch to hose at the end is for flexibilty for servicing. Nylon is too rigid and fragile by comparison. Also, one way to tell if a fitting barb is for nylon or hose is a nylon barb usually has at least three beads/ridges to seal the nylon where a hose barb has at least one barb and if two barbs, a wide enough gap between them for the clamp to squeeze between the barbs.
  19. The speed shop yesterday had me order this and he said once it arrives he will be able to fabricate a hose for me. Rocky Mountain informed me last night that the SVT cars fuel hose was made from a Rover fuel line and they would cut one end off and attach the fuel rail push on connector.
  20. I would need more information to say anything about the fitting that screws on. The fitting that attaches to the fuel rail is available from Dorman. The fittings are made for Nylon fuel line, not what you are showing. If the other end of the hose hooks up to a metal fuel line you can get a connector to use nylon fuel line. Russell is an aftermarket company that makes AN fittings and hoses. They have a fitting that will attach to your fuel rail and let you convert to 37 degree AN fittings.
  21. Based on what you want, I'd consider shelving the existing axle as-is and adapting a 90's or newer suzuki sidekick/geo tracker rear axle for several reasons. The pros: 1) The width should be close to what you need as-is. 2) The ring gear is a bit larger than the m68 for stronger gear sets (6.7" vs. 6.9") 3) This axle comes with 4.30, 4.62, 5.12 and 5.37:1 gear sets (4.62 strongest with the fewest ring teeth). 4) A torsen type diff is available for about $650. 5) Despite being considered weak for a 4x4 with very large od tires, it should be a little stronger/heavier than what you have. 6) The drop out diff carrier/pumpkin is easily setup on a bench. The con: The axle uses a very large, common 4x4 truck 5 bolt circle and hub but adapters are available. The adapters would increase the axle width about two inches. I have a 90s 2 door, 2wd convertible tracker I converted to an s10 v6 and 700r4 with an open 5.12 axle and 235-60-16 tires on grand vitara wheels. Let me know if you'd like any measurements. The 90's axle is a three link where the 99 and newer is a 4 link with a panhard bar, but you'd be cutting everything off to duplicate the birkin brackets. This is my installed axle and my 4.30 diff with a couple web pics of the axles.
  22. Have an original 3.9 EnFo CWP gear set for sale. Not cheap reproduction stuff and gears are near-perfect condition. Includes both bearings, races, distance piece, flange and nut. $200 for all plus shipping from Akron, OH. Craig Chima, CC Motorsports. (330) 807-0742 or chima97@aol.com
  23. You might want to post pics of the fuel lines at the firewall and the tunnel so we can see if they also could use some improvement for safety. I would hope to see either ford oem type black nylon or steel with supports at least every foot or so, three inches or less from any transition, and with minimal rubber hose and split loom guards as needed to prevent rubbing.
  24. The housing ribs on top of the center section are unique to this axle but I agree, the cover is shaped a little differently for the datsun axles pictured. It may be different for the toyota van applications. I suspect there was some sort of trade agreement with Datsun and Toyota in order to sell their products in South Africa that was satisfied by locally sourced axles.
  25. The rabbit hole gets deeper. Thank you for the info.
  26. Hi all. I built my Birkin from the basic "BIY" kit in 2000/2001 and it has the same axle as Redbeard's. I installed a Quaife in my rear axle when I built the car. Quaife has a specific listing in their catalog for the solid axle Birkin from that era. We were told by the Birkin factory in South Africa that the rear axle was a newly manufactured unit as used in a Toyota Hilux minivan manufactured and sold in South Africa. The only ratios I have ever known of for those rear ends were the two that came in solid axle Birkins. 4.11:1 until early/mid 2000, then 3.89:1. My kit landed in the US in September of 2000, and it has a 3.89. The first two pics below are the original diff carrier that came out of my Birkin, replaced by the Quaife. If you zoom in on the first one you will find the number "68" in the casting. Hmmm. MV8 - where did you get the info that this is a BW axle? The axle housing castings do not have the name Borg-Warner in them, fwiw. Also, the rear cover looks different than one in a pic on that page you linked. The pictured one is deeper. This is fascinating. Incidentally, the Quaife catalog still lists Birkin as "Quaife Borg Warner M68 Axle ATB Differential". It also says "In Stock" which is shocking!: https://shop.quaife.co.uk/shop/atb-differentials/quaife-borg-warner-m68-axle-atb-differential/ Their listing has a link to a "technical spec" drawing. I dug up the old diff center section, and the dimensions and spline count of my old one appear to match the current Quaife drawing. So, maybe we all missed the boat years back - I have never seen the Birkin diff identifed as a Borg Warner - Quaife's catalog in 2000 made no mention of Borg Warner in relation to this diff. In late 2000, before I dropped the big bux on a Quaife, I sent one of these center sections (borrowed from the importer Dick Brink) to Toyota Racing Development in California on the off chance they could identify it and provide a more cost effective LSD. They passed it around to their engineers, and nobody had ever seen one like it. Maybe it being a Borg Warner explains that. FWIW, the Quaife is a fantastic unit. I consider it table stakes on a solid axle Birkin. I drove one with an open diff and it wouldn't put power down at all. And the Quaife install was a breeze - no change to the setup and the gear pattern was perfect. Please share whatever info you dig up! This is of great interest. I just replaced an axle seal on my Birkin - Tom gave me the part number - it's a Timken 472826. I got them at a local bearing shop. Happy Motoring!
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