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  1. Yesterday
  2. Vin - Sorry, I didn’t do a very good job reading your post, and missed that you already have the SCAT crank. I also have roller rockers. The C/R is 9.91, but the only info Curtis gave me is that he got the pistons from Burtons in the UK. Don’t have any specifics. I would think that around 12 would be way too much for pump gas. I think the Crossflow in my Mallock is 12.5, and I use 110 race gas with it. Where are you on the Cape? My aunt had a house in Chatham where I spent several summers. Steve
  3. Version 1.0.0

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    Various Caterham measurements by model.
  4. The mystery of the main bolts is solved. The OEM items were suddenly hard to get due to supply chain issues. Rather than delay my short block build any further, Esslinger opted to use a different OEM bolt from an Ecoboost that shares the same critical dimensions. The one difference is head height. For the Ecoboost application, Ford uses a taller head that is drilled and tapped to receive a small fastener. Esslinger now has the OEM main bolts on hand which measure under 8mm high and should fit without issue. Once those arrive, I'll swap them out and get on with the build. -John
  5. Thank you - I didn't have it. I especially like that it is in excel so I can customize it.
  6. Dyno shops don't really care about the car, it the engine and ECU. The only issue with the car is how to strap it down, but one look under the back will answer that question. For a basic dyno run they just need the engine so they know were to pick up the RPM signal. When I talk to a dyno shop I will say I have a Locost with a K24. Graham
  7. I found this on my computer, I think it's from the Caterham maintenance manual which you may already have, but here it is anyways... Caterham Service Schedule - Duratec (1).xlsx
  8. That seems like the lowest hanging fruit, hopefully that gets you enough of the way there.
  9. Appreciate the encouragement! The front suspension was all removed to be bead blasted and painted, so the body was buffed before suspension installed. The only rust found on the frame was where Lars had a rope around the tube above the steering rack to suspend it from the barn rafters. That area was cleaned up and POR 15 applied. The main frame paint was good, but I masked off alloy, then repainted visible areas. I used a scotch-brite pad and some aluminum boat cleaner on the alloy. I found a great kid (to me, anyway) Patrick, who is a car addict too, and owns Cape Cod Metal Polishing. He does the aluminum tanker trucks. Came to my place and spent 7 hrs wet sanding, then final buffing in the driveway!
  10. Steve, The mechanic I bought the engine from gave me a great article from back in the day on how to build an FF engine and have been following that, which sounds like what you have. As stated, I have the forged SCAT crank and cam kit. Trying to decide on pistons. What is the compression ratio of the forged pistons in yours? I can only find 11.9 or 12:1, and am thinking that may be an issue? Thanks for all the inputs. Vin
  11. Plan to change spark plugs and redo a dyno on a dynojet with AFR. Any other idea on starting point for troubleshooting? The issue here is I don't have any shop who is familiar with Caterhams...
  12. Looks great! Brings back memories.
  13. I had a pre lit Westfield and I am close to your build ( just 15 pounds less ). You will fit fine in it but yes you do wear the car you don’t get into it! Ron.
  14. Looks fantastic! Did you polish the ali before mounting the front suspension? If so (and I think you did), you will never again have that kind of access to that portion of the body. I always find that area a challenge. Steve
  15. A shake-down ride from New Hampshire to Portland OR in February, hmm I'd take a detour thru Key West. I hope the car check out is a GO!
  16. Vin - when I had my Crossflow rebuilt by Curtis Farley (now retired), he recommended that I replace my stock crank with a SCAT crank used in FF engines. I did, and have more peace of mind around 7k. I already had the 244 cam and a head with port work and larger valves. Added forged pistons and the crank. It’s been great, and still strong. Steve
  17. Vin, Thats a really nice package there! What can is that? I would love to 234 my 1600 but I would need deeper cut pistons. One thing I would ask is, are hardened valve seats necessary? If I were doing this job, I would not do valve seats and use a lead substitute instead. Have heard seats falling out. Is this something you are considering?
  18. A bit of a milestone, it's a roller now!
  19. Last week
  20. Charlie, It is a 711M block. I have a set of Ford NOS .030 cast pistons that came in the boxes of parts with the car. Have a Scat forged crank and Kent performance cam kit. Thinking forged pistons and rods make sense, upgraded valves, and a set of roller rockers. Trying to determine how far to go with the engine for road and occasional track use. Vin
  21. Thank you, guys! We are getting closer to an answer! I don't have a tread pitch gage but here is a 1/4"-28 for comparison. the fitting could very well be a 1/2 x 26.
  22. Drive it back:)! Members here have done crazier things(NJ to Juneau Alaska comes to mind:)). Just kidding, the car that went to Alaska was well sorted. You should fit perfectly. The Morgan is a pretty good approximation of the se7en experience.
  23. Agree, something is off. Torque curve shouldn't look like that on a 420 I don't think. Mine is just starting to pull at 5k.
  24. Thanks for the thoughts. I am 5'9" and about 30" inseam and 174lbs so while not good for pro basketball I should likely fit the car. I have a Morgan 3 wheeler that is also a snug cockpit so I get the issues. You wear these cars don't you? Wife has blessed it and is a supporter of unique cars even as she drives her Model 3 performance to work every day. I think it is some sort of automotive yin/yang in her head that she is embracing the technology and I am becoming a luddite. The car is located in the Northeast and I am lining up Sports Car Services in Keene, NH to do a thorough pre purchase inspection. Mike Spring the service manager seemed to be a good guy and is certainly knowledgeable in regards to the BMC-a motors and what to look for. I want to enlist a neutral third party with nothing invested here in the sale to give it a clean bill of health. It won't be cheap but it may be the best $400-500 I have ever spent if it is a no go on this car. The hunt is exciting as you all know - just need to figure out how to get a reasonable price shipping from New Hampshire to Portland OR. :o) Dave
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