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Piiiiccccccssssss!!!!

Its the same. I don't need a funnel. Just put nozzle in. Twist to left slightly and pump in at half speed. Just need to be patient.

Given I have owned a CSR for 15+ years, I have made it a point of collecting technical information over the years to help me. It has been pulled together from other owners of CSRs I know globally. All of that gets put in the library for sharing.

I've had an issue getting gas only once in my CSR, and it was entirely my fault. Someone came up while I was filling up and asked me questions, and I kept going after the first click like I was filling up a regular street car. Excluding that one exception, I've had no issues in MD, VA, and NY.

Thank you. Union City, California.

On Long Island, The North Shore has land on the south and water on the north. In Minnesota, The North Shore has water on the south and land on the north.

Great looking car. Location?

I picked up some pop rivets with oversized heads

I epoxied BigHead fastener to front fender & bolted on Lexan flaps. They’re flexible enough & have worked great for over 10 years.

If you can’t find a bolt-in bar, I’ve fabricated several roll bars and roll cages for members here. I have a small race-prep & fabrication shop here in PA and can build whatever you would like and to your spec. Just an offer if you can’t find what you’re looking for. A cage will take a week, but I can do a roll bar for you over a weekend.

The rear of the CSR fender is cantilevered out a ways. Fender is designed to hug the tire closely. I figure I have to take off the tire, drill the fender, insert pop rivet from the inside Add mud flap. Pop rivet washer,. Tighten it up. Long part of rivet is on the outside where it can't mess with the tire.

Pics! Pics!!

mine are mounted on the rear fender bracket they extend 4" from the bottom of the wing, and end up 4" off the ground

I've seen it done but not sure how they were mounted, probably just a couple of button-head screws with washers/nuts. If it's extended low enough I'm sure it would make a big difference. I agree with KnifeySpoony though, put PPF on the side panels. I also put it on the forward section of the rear fenders before I installed the rock guards. I had that done on my 310 and I can't imagine the damage to the paint in those areas without it.

Yes but I still have to vacuum it after every autocross--lots of crap in the cockpit, and still rock pits on the rear fenders

I'm going to guess those are the same nozzles Costco has here I had issues a month ago with my Suburban, of all things the nozzles have a rubber boot around the pipe, which needs to seat on the filler pipe and seal if it doesn't seal, the auto shut off is confused totally out of the question for the 7 even if they had non alcohol, which they don't

I thought I'd give the knowledgeable and discerning folks on this site first dibs. With real reluctance, I’m putting my Caterham CSR up for sale. I’m relocating to Europe shortly, and importing/registering a US Seven there would be a long, expensive, and bureaucratic adventure I’d rather avoid. I am the original owner. The car was built for me, and very solidly built, by Rocky Mountain Caterham from a brand‑new CSR chassis in 2020. The engine and gearbox were sourced separately, per US EPA Kit Car Policy. The goal was simple: create the most agile, communicative and confidence‑inspiring road car possible. No racing, no track days — just pure back‑road performance. Specification Kit • CSR chassis kit in Caterham F1 Green (the pictures don’t do it justice) Engine • Used 2.0 Duratec, reportedly 210 bhp (true output unknown, but the performance supports the figure) Gearbox • Type 9 with Tracspeed semi‑helical gearset (long 1st, close 2–5) Registration • California SB100 (SPCNS) — smog‑exempt, no annual emissions testing, and you skip the usual SPCNS registration gauntlet Upgrades & Setup During My Ownership Cabin • Lowered floors, for 6'4" yours truly ECU & Tuning • MBE 9A4 programmable ECU • Professionally mapped by Steve Greenald (UK), an authority on all things MBE/Easimap Differential • Titan clutch‑type LSD Steering • Titan quick‑ratio rack (2.2 turns) • Custom tie‑rod ends and steering arms by Jack Webb Motorsports to eliminate bump‑steer • Woodward U‑joint for zero play Suspension • Quantum One.Zero coilovers with two‑way adjustment, setup by Jack Webb Motorsports • Upgraded rear clevis & pin set (addresses known CSR weak point) Brakes • CL Brakes RC5 pads up front — excellent modulation and stopping power Lighting • LED headlights (a major improvement over stock H4s) • Reverse light Alignment • Full geometry setup by Custom Alignment, Mountain View, CA What This Car Delivers You end up with a 1290‑lb, ~200‑bhp Caterham built on a Multimatic‑engineered platform — inboard front suspension, the only IRS in Caterham history, and a level of composure that, in my opinion, sets it apart from other Seven expressions. The handling is the CSR’s party trick: poised, unflappable, and absurdly fast across real roads. It shrugs off mid‑corner bumps, stays balanced no matter what you throw at it, and covers challenging terrain at WRC-like pace with unerring ease. Steering is razor‑sharp, richly detailed, and free of slop. The Duratec pulls from 2500 rpm and then charges hard to a 7800 rpm redline with a hint of BDA‑like sonority up top. The upgraded brakes match the chassis: powerful, progressive, confidence‑building. It is, without question, the most nimble, responsive, and sure‑footed road car I’ve owned. And everyone loves it, from 5-year olds to Porsche drivers, even Harley riders give it a thumbs up. The Imperfections (in the spirit of full transparency) • Slow oil seep at the main seal — improved but never fully eliminated. “They all do that, Sir.” • Slight kangarooing at steady-state light throttle around town; disappears above ~30 mph • A few small paint chips; it’s a driven car, not a museum piece Included Extras • Full hood and weather gear • A new set of Avon CR500s (195/45‑15 & 245/40‑15) — likely among the last available • All original parts, except the steering rack and open differential • Various fluids (engine, gearbox, diff, brake, coolant) Asking Price $65.000

Not particularly Lotus/Caterham related, but on holiday on Kauai, Hawaii last year, I needed to fill up our rental car before returning it to the airport. As a Costco member, I made use of the great prices and shopping available. At the Costco gas station, I tried 3 cards (one in U.S. Dollars) in order to pay for the gas. None of them worked, and I couldn't pump any gas. I noticed that an entirely different type of pump nozzle was attached to the hose of a type that I had never seen before. I returned to the store, and they confirmed that all of the cards were up-to-date, and should work. I tried again with no luck and even a very helpful lady customer also tried to help with no success. I went to the nearby Costco attendants booth, where a young 'surfer dude' Costco employee was keeping cool in his air conditioned cocoon. He came out to the vehicle, tried the cards - as I had done - which still would not allow him to pump any gas. He looked at the pump nozzle, and then gave it a very hard shove into the gas tank filler neck. He told me "Your nozzles not in far enough". I replied "My wife often tells me that"! He stared at me for a few seconds, then went back to his air conditioned comfort. I was then able to pump the gas. It appears that the 'new' nozzle has to make a very firm contact with the filler neck of a vehicle to allow the gas to be pumped. It cannot just be left loosely in the filler neck to work correctly. Not sure if this type of nozzle will become standard in the U.S. and Canada? I have not seen this particular type of nozzle since then, but our local Costco has fitted newer types of nozzles, but they are still of the type that the nozzle does not have to be all the way in to pump the gas. W. Tommy Cooper: "The local police arrested two bank robbers at their hide-out recently. One was drinking battery acid, and the other was chewing on a firework. They charged one, and let the other one off"

put PPF on the side panels - problem solved

Admittedly, I have not tried to rely on auto-stop with this method and have instead elected to only put in as much fuel as I know will fit (5-6 gal usually). I'm wondering if I can catch an impending overflow by watching the funnel and pumping more slowly after the first 5 gallons, I'll give it a try next time.

I'll try again.

That method does not look as failsafe as my unvented-can-with-a-hose method. How do you know when the tank is full before the fuel spills out on your paint and your shoes?

This is a decent car. I'm only selling it because a CSR has taken over its storage space. I can't sell 74PHIL because it is a work in progress. I have about 20 grand in the green Birkin. I'm strapped for storage space and willing to take a beating. I'd take 15 grand, FOB Saint Paul Minnesota. Spares include: Two cycle fenders in the same green paint. No brackets for these fenders. Factory bolt-on-style spare-tire-carrier which needs repair. Spare tire on a wheel which does not match the K-1 Racing 7x15 wheels on the car. Full top which I have stretched to mostly fit. Birkin uses a single "hood stick" which pulls apart for storage. Doors which appear to be correct for the car. I don't think they have been used because interior snaps have never been installed in the interior. Full tonneau assembly which consists of the attached boot cover and two separate cockpit pieces. These do not need to be stretched, but a zipper or two need some fettling. I'd call it ready for sun protection but not for rain protection. There are no headrest pockets: The headrests easily pull out. The car has that vintage look when covered in the tonneau. Car runs and drives. I intend to run it with the new tires in an autocross this Sunday. The new side mirrors are perfect. It has a fresh alignment. All five forward gears and reverse work. The Zetec engine has a RaceLine water rail and the sort of throttle bodies one would expect to replace side-draft Weber carbs (not the Hayabusa setup now in 74PHIL). Four-wheel disk brakes. I have not tested is for LSD, but the few autocrosses I have run on not-sticky tires makes me think it has something. The front swaybar is adjustable. The coilover units have adjustable perches so you can set the ride height and corner-balance the car. I'll put together a proper ad with lots of pictures REAL SOON NOW. Right now, I need to finish putting a temporary passenger seat in the CSR. I'd deliver the car within a short distance for free. Price for distant delivery is something I'd need to determine after crunching the numbers from my recent California trip. Otherwise, the buyer would need to arrange transportation. Would I be afraid to drive it a long distance? I trust the car, but I don't trust the weather. The top is not completely ready, and the interior snaps are not there for the doors.

I can't speak to the CSR, but I still recommend this funnel to everyone who has issues with their filler. Quoted from the "trick for filling gas" thread for posterity... But I tracked down a picture of it sitting on my (non-CSR) filler.

You're missing out on a lot of valuable information. Click the Library link at the top of the page, then look for the list of folders on the right. The number next to each one identifies the number of documents it contains. There are a number of CSR-specific files in both the "Caterham Build & User Guides" and "ECU & Electrical" folders.