jevs

Stalker 23 is no longer for sale. I took deposit on it this morning. Thanks everyone.

Sent you an email. Feel free to call, text, or email.

If anyone is interested, my house is selling and they only gave us two weeks to close. We have to move into a temporary living situation which means the Stalker has to go into storage. If anyone wants to make a reasonable offer, now is the time. I would also consider trades or partial trades if it is something that is ready to resell without needing work. I have to put my entire shop and tools into storage for a bit, so no projects other than building a new house are going to get done any time soon.

Unfinished Brunton Stalker M-Spec XL Classic for sale. This is a new construction with new parts only! Power plant is a brand new LS376 crate motor mated to a brand new Tremec T56 Magnum close ratio 6-speed and uses a Cadillac CTS-V LSD rear differential. This will be a very fast and very agile machine! This car comes with about everything I could think of to complete it. It cannot be bought new or built any cheaper (unless you put used or inferior parts in it)! This is probably the fastest Lotus 7 type car out there that you can build starting with a kit! It should make near or over 500HP once tuned and I believe it should weigh around ~1700lbs. Since this is the XL, it is ideal for Road Racing and/or larger framed drivers. It has a stance near that of a Corvette I believe. The XL has enough room to even add AC if you wanted. This comes with a Manufacturers Certificate of Origin only that states “Replica / Facsimile Of circa 1962 Lotus 7” and is intended to be street legal by following the normal kit car or special construction rules of your state. I will also be providing all the documentation and receipts for parts. I will let the build write up speak for itself as far as the time, care, planning, and fabrication work that has been done so far. I am still working on the car as time permits, but not much time is being permitted because I have several more important projects going that are taking all my time. The good majority of the hardest work and fabrication is already done. http://www.usa7s.net/vb/showthread.php?9794-Brunton-StalkerXL-23-Build You will be getting all of my time, parts research, ordering, engineering, machining, planning, fabrication, etc. for free basically. I am really just trying to sell for cost of parts or best offer. This is not a desperation sale, so if I cannot get a fair price I will be keeping it and finishing when I can. I may also consider trades or partial trades to help a potential buyer. There is no wait time for a kit with this one or a huge amount of precious time to waste researching and gathering up parts to complete it. This car can be complete pretty quick at this point for racing or street fun. This is ready to finish with pretty much everything to finish it down to the license plate frame. This is not a cheap or low budget build using sub-par or used parts. It is a high level build with all brand new parts and drivetrain! There are a lot of custom fabricated parts and extra work done to this car that you won't likely get on any other or be able to buy as new options if you have one built. I have about 1200 high res photos of every part of the build so far. Every single nut, bolt, and part is completely documented in an Excel spreadsheet with part numbers, date of purchase, vendor, the date of installation for parts that have been fitted etc. I will also be supplying another 800+ files of parts data, instruction manuals, all the build files and videos, CAD files of parts I designed and machined, CAM files, parts data, electrical information, data sheets and instruction manuals for parts, pictures of other builds, etc. This is over 13 gigs in total! I would be glad to share more info with any prospective buyers so you know exactly what you are getting. You will know every single part, part number, and where it came from. I have a huge stack of paperwork and receipts as well as the electronic files. This car can't be done any cheaper without going used parts or sacrificing on the build quality. I shopped hard, used every discount code, dealer cost, etc. to get the best pricing on everything. I would say the prices have only gone up! This will be a great deal for anyone looking at buying a new kit or that was considering buying a finished car. This one can still have the finishing touches done to your desires. You will also be avoiding a lot of machining, fabricating, and welding that you may or may not have the tools and machines to do. Summary of some of the features: T Bar full cage upgrade Electric in column power steering upgrade Brunton aluminum fuel cell The entire fuel system is upgraded beyond the makers suggestions Aluminum shock upgrade RFID ignition setup (no key needed) Self-cancelling turn signal system LED headlights All other lighting LED, Upgraded fasteners Custom parking brake setup with custom machined mounting that will work like it is supposed to! Custom modified surge tank Custom radiator mounting with vibration isolation Custom catch can setup Custom mounting for exhaust with proper isolation Modified hood for rod cover "bumps" and better fitment Reworked cowl for nice hood mating and to use rubber weather stripping for an excellent gap and full support Custom hood clamp mounts welded to frame with extras added up front Hood and clamps, etc are laid out in way that will make adding side body panels later around the engine bay easy if ever wanted Custom light weight NASCAR style hood prop setup Custom throttle pedal setup tuned to proper weight, travel for this car, and stock GM smooth movement feel Custom hand brake mounting and placement Custom dash mounting to actually use hidden fasteners and capture the bottom to the tunnel Real carbon fiber race mirrors Welded on tow hitch with receiver Rerouted brake lines for easier replacement of differential Custom welded in protection for brake lines in case of an off track/road incident There is much more than that and more goodies for you to complete, but a lot is shown in the linked build. I will be glad to answer emails or take calls to assist with the rest of the build if questions need answered after you purchase it. This car could be finished fairly quickly given your amount of free time and depending on how much more you want to deviate from the original kit. Attached is a pdf of the parts list so far. This will give you an idea of what it really takes to build this and what you will be getting. You won't be shelling out a bunch more money on parts to finish it and you will be doing way less work than starting from scratch. I have started with mounting the seats, but I have not posted pics yet to the build log. I have just under 40k in materials only. Parts list.pdf

Installed the shift boot into the tunnel plate. I did not like the look of the polished stainless panel because the bottom side of the punched part is the side they polished. This looks a bit cheep because the edges curve up. I flipped it over and made a brushed finish on the other other side which I prefer. The back edge of the plate and the rubber boot had to be trimmed to get the boot centered on the shifter. This allows it to kind of tuck under the lip of the arm rest a bit. The screws that the shift boot comes with are pretty cheap looking screws that would likely rust if they got wet. I replaced them with stainless button heads and used stainless nylock nuts on the other side. Removing the shift boot would not give you access to much, so anytime access is needed you would most likely just pop the whole panel off instead. The rubber of this boot is super flexible and not real thick. Some stock rubber boots I have seen in OEM car shift setups can actually cause pop outs in cold weather, this one has very little resistance to movement.

The shifter seems to work very well. This is definitely the least expensive method to relocate the shifter and it seems to work just as good as the more expensive methods I have seen. I looked pretty hard for awhile, because this assembly was not available, but did not find any other aftermarket ones that put it in the same location as this one and they were all very expensive. Brunton came through eventually and because I waited so long they sent it at no charge which was nice of them. I will need to seal the shift plate on final assembly after everything gets coated. I am replacing the bolts with longer ones where the plate goes. I only had two, so I have to pick up a couple more.

The shift rod needs to end up with about .260 thickness to fit perfect in the shift rod adapter clasp with no slop. I actually went a couple thousandths more for mine. I believe the spec is 1/4", but you want this as close as possible. Squeezing it with the bolt will take up slop, but the more you pull, the less of the surfaces are in actual contact. I used a ball mill to do this, but that turned out to be a waste of time. The rod needs more room and the radius gets in the way. I ended up grinding and filing more off by hand to get adequate clearance. I did not want to measure and clamp everything back up in the mill. I would advise just using a regular end mill with a tiny radius on the edge instead. It is tricky that you do not take too much off because you need the rubber boot to stay lower than your cut. The hole is drilled 3/8". I sanded the top off just to the point that the original lower bolt hole threads disappeared. I sanded the weld on the bottom of the linkage rod so that it is gently on the rubber boot if it makes contact on the top.

I removed the shifter plate because it has to be flipped and the shifter rod has to be modified. The Tremec emblem was sanded off so the shifter plate can set flat. I considered using washers to space it up, but I thought this was slightly better than fiddling with spacers between and it gives more contact area for rigidity. The sealant was cleaned off the transmission and the shifter plate. The shifter rod assembly was removed because it needs to be cut down, milled, and a new hole drilled. It was cut off just at the bottom of the lower hole.

Started on the shifter. The Brunton shifter stick has a 1/2"-13 threaded hole for the shift knob, but the knob on the parts list when I purchased has a smaller threaded hole. So, the first thing I had to do is make an adapter. I just cut a bolt down on the lathe and cut some threads the old fashioned way. Works perfect.

Finished the arm rest panel.

Finished the tunnel armrest panel except for the upholstery part. The magnets work perfect. I sanded off the excess epoxy that flowed through the countersunk holes and added a little more epoxy around the magnets for extra strength and to encapsulate the spacers and look cleaner. Now this can easily be removed with only two screws (the right side boot bezel screws). There will be no other visible fasteners or anything to irritate your arm. I made it a little longer in the front to also hide the panel joint between the tunnel panel and the shifter panel. I fit my parking brake cables but discovered they made the exposed portion of the cable too short. I will post pictures of those once I get the corrected cables. I did have to drill out the tapped hole on the caliper bracket. Since the cables use a double nut so you can adjust it in and out, this did not need to be threaded. It should have just been a 1/2" clearance hole. Easy fix to just drill it out with a 1/2" bit. I needed to put a rear wheel on to check clearance for the cables. I thought I would snap a couple shots with the wheels on one side just for the heck of it.

It would have been done tonight except for some reason the exposed portion of the cable is 1-1/8" too short. I suspect someone made a mistake, because I sent a diagram of exactly what was needed. I have to get that rectified tomorrow, but it appears the setup is going to work well. These cables are heavy duty.

I cut the clearance holes in the tunnel panel for the magnets today. The magnets are from K&J Magnetics, Inc. D92-N52 N52 Rare Earth Neodymium Magnet 9/16" Dia. x 1/8" Thick Nickel Plated I marked all the locations on the tunnel panel and the arm rest plate. The tunnel panel clearance holes are drilled to the 5/8" step of a step bit. I drilled countersunk holes into the arm rest plate so that the epoxy could flow up through and also create a mechanical bond. The "nub" can be sanded off when everything hardens. Everything was sanded where the epoxy is going to connect including the spacers. Spacers had to be made for the magnets because the spacing was larger towards the rear. The magnets were sanded on the sides and top and then stuck to the frame centered in the clearance holes. Slivers of the material I am using to cover the panel were taped to the top of the tunnel panel to create the proper spacing for when the material is wrapped around the arm rest panel. Everything was epoxied and then held down lightly with some boards. I want to make sure the magnets can reach when I am all done. Hopefully not too much worked its way down and it doesn't get stuck to the frame.

Unless someone makes me a realistic offer, I am going to try to squeeze it in. It is really a bad time with our house being for sale currently and trying to prep land and plan out a new house among our other life duties. We will see how it goes.

Made the panel for the parking brake boot and padded arm rest. This gets held to the frame with the passenger side boot trim ring screws. The plan for fastening the rest of the panel will be N52 neodymium magnets. Once I get the scrim backed foam on it and the covering, I will drill holes in the tunnel panel and epoxy magnets where needed to the arm rest panel. The magnets will stick directly to the frame. The hole in the top of the tunnel panel was cut so that it can be raised straight up and off without doing anything with the parking brake handle. The arm rest panel slides over easily. At first I looked into mounting the boot to the tunnel panel, but it was harder to maneuver the tunnel panel over the parking brake. This will be much easier.