98oilhead

The reading at the guage is only affected by wiggling the the capillary tube at the sensor bulb at the block connection. I thought at one point that I had over tightened the bracket holding the guage at the dash and distorting the guage face and binding it up but...no. What is truly boggling is the fact that if you remove the sensor bulb from the engine and put in a pan of hot water it works as it should. I will add that prior to using this new set of guages the car had an old set of S/W guages and the water temp worked fine. The S/W sensor bulb mounted on a flat surface as opposed to the new sensor which mounts on a tapered face. The new fitting for the sensor has a tapered face. I'm a reasonably skilled mechanic but this "problem" just doesn't make any sense to me, it's seems illogical.

This is a mechanical gage...non-removable capillary tube.

Mechanical temp. guage. The problem: temp. guage doesn't work reliably. Tested guage off engine..works. Reinstalled sender/sensor into engine(it's at one of the lowest parts on the block) no air pockets. When reinstalled the guage doesn't work unless you wiggle the sensor/sender and then it will sometimes. I have tried two other guages of similar design with exactly the same results. This is making me crazy. Any thoughts?

Way off topic I'm sure. I'm having a great deal of trouble finding "shorty" headers for my 2.3l Kent motor, lots of headers for Pinto but they pass under the car, won't work in this application. The header for turbo motors are pretty common and might be able to modify, not so for normally aspirated. So the question. Are the port spacing/head bolt pattern the same on 4.6 V8 the same as on the 2.3L? Would open up another way to make headers "happen". Nick

Wondering what people have been using. The "muffler" that is on the car now ('87 Sabre 7) sounds more like an MGB with no muffler. Interesting initially but quickly gets very tiresome. The engine is a 2.3L Pinto/Bobcat and the exhaust exits on the passenger side. A fair amount of room to install something much quieter. Suggestions?

Sabre(Saber?) 7 owners. Built in Ventura CA in the mid 80" by H.S Engineering. Can I be the only one? I hope not. You can p.m @ gpc@midmaine.com. Nick Davidson

These look like they might work. how much do you want? Paypal? Nick

Can the collective wisdom direct me to a source for headers for this motor? The exhaust exits on the passengers side. Hopefully there's a source for these. The vehicle is a 1986>87 Sabre 7 built on the west coast and is a pretty good replica. All help is appreciated. Nick

Saber 7's as far as we have been able to figure out were knock offs of Super 7's, look pretty much the same but the cockpit is supposed to be a bit wider, though my butt says no. Built on the west coast in the 80's by h.s engineering that went out of business in 1991.Uses a lot of off the shelf early Mustang (Pinto maybe?) parts (suspension in particular). Thanks for reply. Nick

Just purchased a Saber 7 in pretty good condition but in need of work to make it road worthy again. That being said any recommendations for seats? This is not a low budget recommsioning but I don't want to spend a bunch (under $300 per) and trying to identify the Ford OHC crossflow motor. Eight valve cover bolts, none up by the cam sprocket. Anyone make headers for this? Thanks.