new2 7s

Thanks, I pulled the alternator off the motor, the stud broke off as I was starting the removal of the wire.... I have a single wire alternator.... and whats left of the stud wobbles around a little bit (approx 1/16 of an inch of wobble) and doesnt tighten. I'm going to take it to the shop in the morning to have it tested and see if it can be fixed....

I checked my alternator connection, the stud on the back is loose and wont stay firmly tightened. Also, I checked the voltage today at the battery and the alternator. The battery was showing about 12.6 while running and the alternator was about about the same level, about 12.2 or 4 The volt meter I purchased is an analog type and it instruction say a possible +/- 5% Do the numbers sound like the alternator is bad?

I recently installed a new Facet electronic fuel pump, the pump may not be grounded correctly.... would that cause a drain on my electrical system when the motor is running?

I dont have an ECU on my car, only an electronic distributor (Pertronix Unit) and Coil

Hi Bruce I just performed the check, removing the negative battery lead and tested the positive.... the light didn't go on, then I reconnected the negative lead and the test light went on. I restarted my motor, I did a tester light test on the coil and the following happened: The positive terminal on the coil light the tester light The negative terminal on the coil sparked when I touched the tester light to it and the motor stalled immediately. Scott

Additional information, I may have been to quick to say nothing was draining my system. When I put the tester light on the positive side of my coil while the motor is running, it causes the motor to stall immediately, should I assume I have a bad coil?

Hey guys, I drove my car around the block a few times today, when I came back to my house I stalled the motor.... that wasn't a problem.... done it before and it always fires up again. This time it didn't, the battery was drained after a 1 mile drive.... it was down to about 10 percent of the start-up required amperage. Does this problem sound like a bad alternator? or something else? I've checked my electrical connections all over the car and nothing seems to be bleeding off serious voltage. Scott

Well, it looks like I'm going to stick with the PC680 for the time being. I took my starter to a shop and they rebuilt the sylenoid today, it appears some of the internal parts were burnt, I reinstalled the starter and the battery fired the motor up without much effort at all. Regarding the battery cut off switch, where are you mounting it? and how do you mount the switch.... from which electrical connections? Scott

The mechanic that finished my car last week was suggesting I put a gear reduction starter in for 2 reasons, less battery drain and the stock Lucas starters sylenoid sits lower then the bellhousing.... If I bottom out my car there goes my starters electrical system. I tested my battery before, after taking it off the charger I have 12.65 or greater volts and after running my car for 5 minutes, the battery has approx 12.3 volts.... does that sound like a faulty battery cell?

Hey Guys, Thanks for the input, think maybe I should change out my Lucas Starter for a gear reduction unit.... maybe that will change the draw on the battery. Do you ever disconnect the battery after running your cars? to stop any possible draw on it, I ask because I noticed this evening when I attempted to start my car that the battery was a little low on cranking power, but when I tried the PC925 it spun the motor over without any question.

Hi, I'm selling my new Odyssey PC680 battery, I've decided to go with the next step up, the PC925 (I have a high compression motor and need the additional cranking power) so rather then ship it back to the company I purchased it from I'm offering it forsale. My asking price is $85.00 plus shipping Thanks, Scott

The distributors are Lucas, pertronix electronic, no vacuum advance.

Bart, Yes, I have a fuel filter from Earls mounted before the carbs near the motor and a pressure regulator to keep the volumn pressure at 3 - 4 psi since the instructions that came with the pump show the pressure output at 4 - 5 1/2 psi. Do you run a pressure regulator? or do the DCOE 45's take higher pressure then the 40's? I've been trying to sinc up the carbs myself but think I need to take the car to a professional tuner because my idle speed is about 1100 - 1400 rpm, most of the time it's at the higher end.

Thanks, I just started up the motor and it worked without priming the pump. Are you running a Crossflow or Zetec motor?

I'm running Weber Carbs on my car and I just installed a Facet 4 - 5 1/2 psi fuel pump after removing the intank high pressure pump. I mounted the pump on the outside surface of the rear firewall (behind the passenger side seat).... does the pump need to be primed or will it pull fuel through the new pick in the tank without priming the fuel line and pump?

I'm selling off some of my Idle Jets, most have never been use and are the original sizes, have not been drilled out: Sizes available: 4 jets 60 F2 4 jets each 55 F8, 60 F8, 65 F8, 70 F8 2 jets 55 F2 Asking $5/jet, or make me a reasonable offer. Scott Also available: 9 tooth benix for 110 tooth flywheel - asking $20 obo 2 Pertronix Distributors - asking $150 each obo 1 Vintage 2 gallon Offy dry sump tank - asking $100 obo

I have a few items specifically for the Crossflow motor for sale, and a few misc items: 2 Aldon/Pertronix Electronic Distributors, minus the cap and rotor - $160.00 each 1 55 amp GM style alternator - $40.00 1 Mechanical Fuel Pump with gasket (new) - $40.00 9 tooth benix for Lucas Starter, will work on the 110 tooth ring gear - $30.00 Dial Top Fuel Pressure Regulator 1 to 6 psi with Fuel Filter - $20.00 Offy Dry Sump Tank 2 Gallon - $120.00 Scott

Are the tires fully cycled through or do they still have some time left on them? Also, what part of the country are you located in? and what would be the cost of shipping to Southern California?

Can you post a picture of the diamond wheels, how many do you have?

I'm currently rebuilding my motor and am looking for information regarding the head bolt torque rating for a 1700 Crossflow motor.

Hi, I'm looking for some information about starting power on a crossflow motor. I have a 1700 Crossflow with a 244 cam, it has a stock Lucas starter.... when I try to crank the motor the battery drains/looses power and doesn't seem to have enough power to sustain the motor until it starts. Any suggestions? either an aftermarket battery or a gear reduction starter? Thanks, Scott

Hi, I would like to find out about the seats, what is the asking price? what is the condition and can you email me a picture?