Yoram

Bill, no worries and same from my side! Looking forward to it.

The silicone hose (see my post above from 10/14) did the trick. It was not too hard to push around the corner to cover the entire length of the exposed bracket. Before: After: Seems quite tight. And please no one suggest this reminds them of Peyronie's disease. Cheers.

I ended up ordering a pair of these jumpers, primarily because they are much smaller and lighter (shorter and smaller gauge) than the sets I have in the other cars, so more fitting for the 7... I will keep my terminal mods for now (belt and suspenders approach) and report about the success or otherwise of my contraceptive solution.

Thanks! Will try this next if the silicone hose does not work.

Love the benefits of a creative community! Always a new angle you haven't thought about. Thanks, John! Having invested already a bit of time and "emotional buy-in" into the conventional jumpers solution, will try for now to see it through. Just ordered on Amazon 10' of red 3/8" ID x 5/8" OD silicone hose for $5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BXSQN2XV?smid=A132D7PL1YID8X&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1 We'll see if/how a short length will fit on my little bracket. (oooops, haven't caught at first the visual one can get reading this, but will leave it there... )

Talked to the StockCap sales person today after browsing through their website. She told me that they do not carry stock of any of the options I identified and that this would be a production order with a minimum quantity. Routed me to leave a voice message for another person who is supposed to know what they may have lying on the shelf, which I did. Hoping to hear back. Very impressive company for production/industrial business from what I've seen, not geared for retail walk-ins. Will report further progress. Thanks for the lead!

Thanks, Bill. Beat me to it - I did get the email. I will plan on being at C&C too, if I get up in time... It's 8 to 11 am, huh? I'm not a morning person... Cheers.

Great find, @CBuff ! They even have rectangular section sizes. Not sure yet how/whether can order one or a few, but will look into it. Will report. Thanks!

I know.... Car started and ran fine afterwards. Could there be hidden damage like shorter coil life, or reduced engine performance due to reduced spark voltage?

How to jump an Odyssey PC680 battery Before I get to this topic I want to first send a shout out of hope and encouragement to all those of us in the SE USA who endured Helene. I hope y'all and your loved ones are safe and well, your pets and homes intact, and your Se7ens unscathed. Here in the Greenville SC area we suffered considerable wind damage with several large trees fallen on our property, one damaging the detached garage housing Yellowjacket. Fortunately only minor structural damage and the cars are unharmed. One of the effects of Helene was that we lost power for nearly two days (fortunately shorter than many in the area). This power outage triggered the subject of this post. Walking into the garage to take stock of things for the first time after the storm I did my customary Yellowjacket electrics check by switching on the lights rocker (a habit born from the dreaded Banner days). Nothing happened. Another quick check found that when I last pushed the car into position before the storm I accidentally turned on the ignition (to prevent the steering from locking) and left it that way. Now, my Chinese trickle charger does not work during a power outage. It then occurred to me that I had never before thought about jumping the PC680 battery. Now that I did, I realized that it is impossible for regular jumper cables to clamp onto those M6 button screw heads on top. Which brought about another mini-project -- the subject of this post. The ground side was easy. There is an M8 chassis ground bolt on top of the passenger foot well. I replaced it with a longer (40mm) one and a quasi-jam nut. The nut clamps the battery and engine cable ends to the chassis. I first screwed the bolt in until it bottomed out, then backed it up a couple turns and tightened the nut. Done. The positive side is more tricky. After thinking about it for a couple of days I ended up with the current solution. It involves clamping under the positive screw of the battery, on top of the cable ends, a 1-1/2 x 1/2" L bracket with the vertical leg shortened (to reduce protrusion and flex). At present the drawback is that I have not figured out yet a handy removable insulating cover, but the bracket is not at risk of touching the bonnet or anything else. Nevertheless ideas for how to cover it are welcome (other than by electrical tape...). Cheers!

Lambda sensor wire management -- Conclusion Today I drilled out the head and tap-punched the body (unfortunately into the chassis tube) of one of the bottom body skin rivets. In its place I riveted one of the stainless steel zip-tie bases from DigiKey per link a few posts up. I zip-tied the Lambda sensor wire to this base ensuring enough slack to accommodate exhaust motions/vibrations. No problems encountered and I consider the issue closed. Thanks to all who contributed to the solution. The stainless steel zip-tie base, and trial riveting onto a 1/8" thick aluminum profile: Installation on the car: Cheers!

Performed a few more process development trials and established a repeatable, capable process . The secret is patience -- very light drill pressure and very low speed. The drill bit eventually picks up the head off the rivet. Then a light punch tap on the shaft and the clean hole is exposed. Only issue is the shaft and bottom part of the rivet would of course remain inside the chassis tube. This will degrade irreparably our highly refined NVH levels... That's where @pethier's approach offers an advantage. Cheers!

Paraphrasing Sir Colin: No rivet shall have a free ride!

I feel the same way. Thank you!

Hello John, Resurrecting an old yet unresolved topic... I am now in a tidying up mode, and this loose Lambda sensor wire has been bugging me, even though it does not droop (yet); it hugs the bottom of the body pretty well. But my OCD side keeps nagging that this is still "wrong". So... I would like to implement your solution of drilling out one of the existing skin rivets and riveting in place a zip tie base. I'm thinking of using one of those below as they are stainless steel, sit flush and allow the rivet gun to react against their surface. https://www.digikey.com/en/products/detail/essentra-components/MTH1-1/3814005?utm_adgroup=&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PMax Shopping_Product_Category_Cables and Wires&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_id=go_cmp-20053924771_adg-_ad-__dev-c_ext-_prd-3814005_sig-EAIaIQobChMIgZXJ4de7iAMVFTYIBR1Jtx5BEAQYByABEgLyZfD_BwE&gad_source=1 My struggle is how to remove cleanly the existing body rivet. I did not attempt it on the car yet. I did some trials installing some pop rivets in a 1/8" thick aluminum profile and then trying to drill them out. Using a drill bit just a tad bigger than the hole I end up spinning the rivet in place... What is your trick to remove a pop rivet cleanly? Other folks please chime in as well. Thanks!