RichardSIA

Ah well, a hard right turn. Seems the Kent is now most likely going into a TR4A chassis that will get a Dio Tipo body. Seems a little too highly tuned for the Morris Minor PU. Dio Tipo is basically a 60's Sports Racer so it should be a good match.

Indeed it is. Much simpler to work with out of the car.

It's ALIVE! Rebuilt the DHLA 40's. Going to need some tuning, seems a bit lean at part throttle. Idle screws two turns out to run. Getting a pretty good fog of fuel reversion at higher RPM. I have no idea what cam is in it but the head porting is obvious. Did a warm compression test after running for several minutes, 160 high to 145 low. Excellent oil pressure and no smoke, seems good enough to put into the car once it is tuned.

PerTronix ordered this morning. Another week of waiting as none were available locally.

Checked before refitting the valve cover, both valves closed. But the issue is zero spark. Tried cleaning the IR Diode and interrupting the beam, still no spark. Checked that there IS a beam using a cell phone, it was there. So it seems likely my obsolete control unit is dead. Quick fix is to go grab a PerTronix unit to fit, or just put points back in. PerTronix is more available. And yes, I did check the coil. This does bring up another issue. According to on-line advice my DHLA-H are "Emissions" carbs and intended for use with a vacuum advance distributor. My Lucas 43D4 distributor is mechanical advance only. This setup was in use before I bought this engine. But I have to wonder if another distributor with Vac. advance might be better?

Another step back. Luminition unit is not working so no spark. Had hoped to have it fire off today.

3 PSI electric fuel pump. I've used these before and they are fine except that you MUST place them where they are gravity fed, they do not siphon at all.

Found one, NAPA #703-1332 I will be replacing the thin rubber gasket with a more substantial O-ring. Had some trouble getting the cover bolted down as it seems the bolt locations are just a fraction off. Next time I have it removed I guess I will ream the holes for a little more clearance. Getting close to test fire as the 3 PSI fuel pump should arrive on Friday.

Running into an issue with trying to buy an oil cap for my Birkin valve cover. Zetec parts I've tried are too small at the threads. Any suggestions of something that might be available in the USA? And the second T9 has made it into the container this time.

Fastenal hardware seems to be the best now. But from my location they are limited as they will not cross the Mississippi river. So they are limited to the Western US for my use. Fortunately, with the heavy bell housing removed these are NOT real heavy so UPS may not be too bad.

Very good used Ford Type E ("Rocket box") from a Birken Lotus 7 replica that had a "Kent" 1600 cross-flow engine in it. I pulled the top cover and looked inside, no chipped or broken gears. These are full synchro so no first/reverse issues as are common to transmissions without first gear synchro. Iron case top loader, 'Web information says good for 175-200 HP so much stronger than the earlier Type 3. Only selling as I am putting a T9 in its place. These are very hard to find in the USA. Modified gear lever is included but the bell housing is not. There are several direct fit bell housings available depending on your use. Any bell housing that will fit a T9 should bolt up to the Type E but you have to remember the input shaft length varies. This is from a four cylinder engine so has the "Short" input shaft and "Lower" gears. Gear ratios: 1=3.65:1, 2=1.97:1, 3=1.37:1, 4=1:1 Listing as local pickup only as I cannot estimate shipping to an unknown address and do not have it crated. I am near Reno/Lake Tahoe, you wanted to visit the area anyway. YRC Freight went broke, Fastenal is a good alternative for Western US.

A step forward, a step back. It seems the T9 I ordered via feeBay has gone "Missing in transit", AKA STOLEN! Seems to be the new normal, and a T9 is not the Hope Diamond, so just thuggery at play. Cannot order another until I get my refund, and of course prices are still going up. So for now I only have the "Type E" 4-speed to work with. Not certain how much has to be changed between them when I finally do have a T9.

At the moment it seems I may have to keep this bell for my T9. But I do hope to buy an alloy version fairly soon. When I do the cast iron will be surplus to my needs.

Well, I have begun getting mine ready to test run before putting it into a car. Got it mounted into my test stand and an exhaust fitted. Pleasantly surprised to find that the head has been ported. Found the missing module for my old Luminition on feeBay and bought it. Still looking for a side entry distributor cap and rotor. I will be rebuilding the Dellorto 40's. No idea what cam is in this engine and hope it is not too radical as it is intended as a street car.

I believe that the T9 I just bought will come with an identical bell housing. I would like one of the alloy right side starter bells, but £300 and shipping. I can measure this one if you like.

Well, my 1600 was removed so that a 1700 could take its place. So it seems some folk find the 1700 worth the extra expense.

Ford Type E transmission, make offer. I believe it came from a Birkin 7. Only selling as I am going to use a T9 behind my Kent 1600 from the same car. Richard, (778) 783-FOUR8SIX7

About to put the engine on my test stand. Have to find block side engine mounts and a thermostat housing. Found a Birkin finned aluminum valve cover for it on feeBay.

Looks like it, and seems to be the most expensive option too! Now have to wonder if the left side hydraulic clutch takes less space than a left side starter?

Identified as a Type E Box. Today I set it into the chassis along with the engine. Unless I may find a more compact bell housing the chassis will have to be modified fairly heavily. I see Burton has a unit that allows fitting the starter to either side but that seems like I might lose even more room at the footwell. Ideally I would find an alloy bell with right side starter, any such available?

That is a very clean looking Round Wheel Arch car, only made for about 2.5 years and much sought after. I have one just like it but not so strait I would not let got for less than $600.00, without an engine or trans. If it were not so far away I would be bidding on that car.

I have been sorting Spridget parts. Need to decide, wire or steel wheels? Thought was to do some nice mags but they are very hard to find now for Sprite PCD.

Hope to use as many Spridget parts as possible since I have them in such abundance. TR10, Metropolitan, and even Morris Minor rears are now hard to find. Even a TR7 rear is not easy and they are fairly recent. Have not seen a Cortina being parted out in decades.

I have been on Locost USA for a long time. But that site seems to have little enthusiasm for the original 7 concept or use of a "mere" Sprite engine. Lots of excess HP there, up to and including blown or turbo big-block v8's. Most builds have lost the "Simplify" concept as well with EFI and Turbo, plus digital gauges, in nearly every build. What I am after will not be a real 7 no matter what I do, and with no intent to sell no reason to not make it to suit only myself.

Very interested. I have the 44 and 442 drawings but they are large enough to hold a V8 so certainly poor dimensions for a 1275 Sprite engine. I am no taller than when I drove that original so long ago, just a bit thicker, so this may be as much a diet plan as automobile build.