rider

Thanks Charlie. Ordered the Fuel Gauge Mod Connector. Will add 12v mod to post-warranty mod list. Warranty is just one year anyway; and, will lose six months of that to Minnesota winter...... (I really need to get the hell outta here....) Regarding insulation, I'm planning to get it done anyway. Even if it doesn't bother me (it may not; hardened by riding motorcycles that run hot....), wouldn't wanna make my passenger uncomfortable! Thanks again for your help.

Thanks Charlie. Looked through your thread; plenty of useful tips. - What shade of Green is it? Beautiful! - what's the plug & Play mod for the fuel gauge fix? - Like your umbrella idea to cover the cabin! Creative! I might consider it as well. - Auxiliary 12v power source: Sounds interesting. Will add to the list for consideration, probably post-warranty. - CaterLED: Looks great indeed; will be ordering a pair. - Mirrors Decided to wait until I get to drive it before deciding an option. - Radiator Protection: Decided to wait until warranty runs out. It might fail; if it does during warranty, keeping it unmodded will help with coverage. - Extra insulation: So, you don't get any excessive heat in the cabin or pedal box or transmission tunnel cover? Thanks 'wemtd'. What do these help with? - Horizontal racequip oil filter adapter (or remote filter) - oil cooler with thermostatic sandwich plate - drain plug in bottom of radiator (cleaner than disconnecting hose to drain system) - CHMSL This looks same as CaterLED (or, the other way around!). - aero-style (newton equip) gas filler cap - doesn’t leak, works great: So, does the stock leaks? Is the stock not lockable? And, which specific model should I get? - Tillett seat: I want to experience the standard leather seats before considering a change. This will be road-only; so, need to be careful with seats. - spray bed liner under wheel arches: Yes, definitely.

Hey, I'm compiling a list of custom work I want to get done during the build. I want to keep the list minimal/essential and avoid potential warranty implications. So, here is a list I made. Please review and suggest opinions and alternatives. And, what other mods you think would be useful that don't void the warranty? - POR15 to Chassis and all exposed components, entire shell, suspension arms. - 3rd Brake Light - Fuel Gauge Fix - Ceramic coating exhaust primaries, Headers. - Battery Cutoff switch inside the cabin, under the dash. - Route battery charging cable from battery to cabin. - Extra heat insulation o https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/design-engineering-reflect-a-gold-12in-x-24in-sheet-premium-reflective-heat-barrier-multi-use-material-010392/22121657-P o Pedal Box o Passenger foot well o Top of Tunnel, entire length. o Inside of passenger side. - Can Thermostat be adjusted to make the fan come on at lower temp? - Shifter: shorten the shaft. - Bottom of the dash hinders the hand movement. Not enough spacing. (From one owner: - Essentially, make the knob to sit lower. The hole in the knob is pretty deep, just need to tap the threads a little deeper and screw it down more. Or just twist it hard and let the steel shaft tap its own way into the aluminum knob.) - Better Horn: Piaa 85115 Superior 112Db 330Hz and 400Hz Twin Tone Bass Horn, Black https://www.amazon.com/PIAA-85115-Superior-Bass-Horn/dp/B0060ZB43G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1 - Visor, driver and passenger - options: - https://www.etsy.com/listing/1406209289/tinted-sun-visor-screens-for-classic?variation0=4619863737 - 13" x 4.33": too big? TBD - Sturdier mirrors that fit on the door. - Don't want to restrict the movement of the doors by mounting on the pillar. - Radiator protection. CHECK: - Check the tires; are they new (recently manufactured)? Thanks; appreciate it.

Thanks; yes, read that suggestion. Out of curiosity, boxing/wrestling shoes have totally different use cases from driving shoes, as we know. So, wouldn't purpose-built driving shoes be better than shoes designed for different use cases? And, if the price is taken out of the equation, will the comparison still be equal? I would think there would be other differentiating factors beyond being light weight and thin soles.

Thanks Jim. They do look good; will consider it.

Thanks; will take a look at those. Yeah, Race-governance-bodies' certifications may add to the cost. They may not be relevant to the street applications. Thanks. Yeah, something like climbing shoes may not work well for walking around. No, won't be tracking. Yeah, I may need to check the clearance again before buying anything. Yes, I'm currently thinking I should the clearance again. Agree. Thanks. I'm indeed leaning toward holding off, for now. See my comments below. Thanks. I did look at Piloti. The white lower section on all the models I cared about is no-go. They will get dirty and ugly real quick. Thanks everyone; appreciate the suggestions. Good ideas. Based on them, I've decided to wait until I drive the car. It'll be by early-May when I get behind the wheel. I have a pair of Allen Edmonds dress shoes that are pretty narrow. Narrower than all my other pairs. So, I can wear them if I have to, for the first drive. One of the big negatives of Race/Driving Shoes seems they are not comfortable off the car, walking around any length of distance. Will be silly to keep a regular pair in the car and switch, and back, after reaching somewhere! In SV, do pedals have an adjustment to increase the gap between them?

Hello gentlemen, thoughts on these driving shoes? Alpinestars: Tech-1 Z V3 Shoes SFI Sparco: PRIME EXTREME The Alpinestars looks narrower. But. Sparco's heel section looks too narrow to be comfortable. I've a lot of experience with Alpinestars' motorcycle gear; a big fan. This will be my first driving shoes. Or, any other good quality pair you can suggest? Looked at Piloti; not a fan of white bottom-color. They will get dirty and ugly in no time! For reference, my upcoming 420R is SV. I wear size 8.5. When I test-drove briefly in a SV, about 10 mins, I wore narrow street shoes; I was still slightly touching adjacent pedals. Thanks.

Thanks for the pictures, @Xhilr8n. Your setup is stout indeed and looks the part. I've never tracked. However, been in a few crashes, over the decades, with four-wheels and two. A big one in a S2000. Hit by a teenager running a red light, totaling it. Escaped potential fatality or serious injuries by fraction a second! Then, a few crashes on motorcycles.... for different reasons.... Looking at your cage, it is very different from Seven's Trackday Roll Cage. Judging by scuff marks on the headrest, probably caused by helmet, I can visualize the top of the helmet is very close to bottom edge of the cross-bar. The side-bar by the door is reasonably close as well. I'll do an evaluation of the cage and 3-point combo after some time driving. Thanks again; gives me a perspective. Like the "BE SMOOTH" remainder! As they say, "smooth is fast"! To be fast, you need to "slow down inside"! Oscar Piastri (I'm sure you follow F1) symbolizes it (as was Michael Schumacher). However, I do think Piastri will do better if he develops bit more killer drive to avoid getting mugged by Verstappen's douchebaggery and kamikaze moves (my opinions, of course!)........

@Lancefitzgiben: Thanks. Yeah, Seven is typically highly customized. As they say, 'no two Seven are like....'! I've a long list of stuff I wanna do. Well, I have been lurking on multiple forums and probably watched every single review, for years! So, I've had time to think through, probably more than I should admit..... Regarding Cage, see my response/explanation in early part of this thread. Tires: I was told Avon is currently unavailable. So, Toyo it is. Thanks, @Nocturnal005; appreciate the detailed response. Chassis: I'm short, 5'8". However, I prefer SV chassis for a # of reasons. Standard floor will suit better for my short frame. Cage: See my response above. Windscreen: I need this. Helmet is for motorcycles! Steering Wheel: I didn't know SV gets slower rack. Good to know. I've actually changed it to 'Quick Release'; and, getting both, 260 and 280 wheels. I can now alternate for different experiences. Carbon panels: The purpose of these is to mitigate heat from exhaust. I really don't care for carbon look. 620 Dash: Yeah, I read about that bright blue light.... Will think of something to diffuse it! Standard Seat Belts: I want less drama and hassle with belts! I prefer simplicity whenever possible! Thanks @Xhilr8n; agree with your concerns. You're correct about body moving around by an event. I'll evaluate the safety of 3-point after I get a chance to drive a bit. If I feel it is inadequate with respect to the proximity of the cage, will switch to 6-point. As I understand, it is easy to retrofit. Would you happen to have a picture of your Elise, showing the Cage? I want to get a perspective with respect to Seven. Thanks.

@CBuff: Not being able to open the door all the way would be a problem for me. I can see now how windshield or cage mounted mirrors would stop the door! Wouldn't work for me. @demoray mentioned about Eckels mount which can go on the doors in place of stock mount points. So, it'll be a straight swap then; right? Doors open all the way with no vibration on the mirrors? Question: We're talking about replacing the stock mirrors with DPR because the stock mirrors vibrate and gets out of position? Is that due to stock mounts or mirrors? As for the inside, center mirror, car comes with one. Is it not good enough? @Croc: Yeah, thankfully, the design is improved from yours. Your cage is different though. See the bottom tube which is missing from current Trackday Roll Cage. Also, as you see, Lucas has plenty of clearance to the top tube. Helmet eats up at least 2-3" of clearance. I'm 5'8" as well, with standard floor. So, I'll have plenty of spacing without helmet. @Xhilr8n: Is that Exocet Red? Looks striking. I debated between Exocet and Volcano Red. Volcano is same as my Soul Red Miata; didn't want two same colors. Besides, Seven needs something more brighter than subdued Volcano. Agree on risk management and mitigation. Very familiar with them as a long-term motorcyclist. I'm opting for Trackday Roll Cage based on how it looks near the head and the clearance it offers.

Scary indeed, @panamericano; thanks for sharing. Was that cage 'Sport Roll Cage' shown below? As you know, it would be impossible to think through how a specific roll cage works in an unknown scenario/variable. Awesome; really appreciate your help, @CBuff. Mirrors: Aren't they mounted on the doors, from the factory? Then why would they drill holes on the windscreen frame? With DPR mirrors mounted, guessing you don't have an issue with the doors opening and closing? As for the center, inside mirror, it could go on the roll cage, as DPR shown on their page. Half-Hood: Under what scenarios would be driving with top zipped closed half-way? As for me, unless it's raining, the top stays off! If it's raining (or forecast to rain), Seven will stay home....... Brake Light: Looks interesting. Will think this through. 6-Point: Good to know it's not hard to retrofit. I don't expect to track though; have a few other serious interests to suck up whatever little time I have...... Questions on heat: Does your pedal box or transmission tunnel (or, both) get hot? If they do, what mitigations you have taken or considering? Thanks again. Nice green by the way! What is it called? Thanks @demoray. I plan to mount them on the windscreen frame. And, I don't expect to drive without doors.

@wdb, @CarlB: Thanks. I read through that thread. From safety standpoint, I definitely can't do anything other than full windscreen. Wearing helmet is reserved for motorcycles..... Earplugs, of course, are mandatory! The video reviews I have seen, cars with full windscreen and side screens seemed pretty reasonable. Of course, I haven't experienced it; you have. So, I'm bit baffled..... Thanks @Croc. All great points and questions. - This is strictly road car. I tried to spec for spirited experience without wandering into track territory. - Why Trackday Roll Cage then? - It adds rigidity. - Rollover protection. - Helps to hold onto a solid frame when getting in/out. So, easier with ingress/egress. However, I have not tried this. So, I'm going with reviews. However, I never read/heard anyone mentioning you could hit the cage! But then, I have only seen pictures extremely few Sevens with Trackday Roll Cage. No, I won't be wearing a helmet. So, you think I could hit my head onto cage from road bumps? From the picture, there seems to be plenty of clearance. Yes, windscreen works with Trackday Roll Cage: LSD: @11Budlite is correct; R comes with LSD. Suspension: Standard R-spec ('Sport'). ITB: Good call on ECU re-flash. Will check with Rick. I have no doubt; he already knows it. So, as you see, the only track-related component is the roll cage. Otherwise, road-focused specs, I think! Thanks again; appreciate the questions and pointers.

These are great; thanks @CBuff. Appreciate it. At the track, you would be using a helmet; so, I can see how Aero would work. I do agree that it would be cool to drive with Aero.....! Yes, I won't be tracking. Never have. My problem is, I would get carried away easily!! However, if I do decide to track, how hard is it to install 6-point? The mirrors are a winner. Will order them and have Rick (Kampena) install during the build, along with other mods you shared. Appreciate it. And, yes, will get the top and bag (along with a few other stuff) from Soft Bits. Your help already crossed off three items from the list......

Thanks @Vovchandr. If 13 tires become unavailable, we can switch to 15s. So, not an issue I suppose. From safety standpoint, I don't think I will consider Aero Screens. Additionally, wind buffeting and wind noise are big issues as well. These days I use earplugs any time top is down. Decades of abuse (motorcycles and open-tops) might have a payback that I yet to face; it may be coming....... But, I can see how different the experience will be with Aero!

Hey everyone. I'm one step closer to joining the Looney Club! Just about to commit myself to a build slot. This has been many years in the making! Multiple attempts were made! It's about to happen finally! I'm planning to target August build; so, the specs freeze window is just about now. Wanted to get some feedback from you guys on the specs. Will make a separate thread for custom work such as fixing the fuel gauge, mirrors, 3rd brake light ...... So, what do you guys think? Thanks. 420R Exocet Red Large Chassis Front - Ventilated discs with quad piston calipers 13" Apollo wheels, 6" Front, 8" rear w/Toyo 888R tires, silver Any concern on availability of tire options for 13s (as opposed to 15s) long term? Track day roll cage Painted roll cage, Polar White Full windscreen hood & side screens (in lieu of aeroscreen) Side screen armrests Fully carpeted interior Seats - Black leather Momo suede steering wheel ,fixed. 280mm substituted instead of 260mm Heater Sequential shift lights Map pocket High intensity lights with LED side lights, running lights Clear lens pack Painted 7 grille, Polar White Carbon side and rear panels(standard on 620 models) 620 Style Dash/Switchgear 620 Style Nosecone Painted headlight bowls Brakes - Front – ventilated discs with quad piston calipers Standard Seat Belts, Inertia Reel 3-point belts." Roller barrel ITBs and carbon fiber air box

Thanks, Mike. Appreciate the details. Build time is definitely longer than traditional manufacturing. But, this form of building is a huge asset when dealing with very low volume. I'm working on an idea; will contact you later to bounce it off for your thoughts.

Thanks. What's the build/print time, from simple part to complex? Do you scan a part to generate a CAD file and print from it? Looks super cool. Is this fully developed using 3D printing? Appears so, reading between the lines and scant details. Thanks; this is useful info. So, these Caterham-specific parts can be custom-built (3D-printed)? And others can be sourced from a variety of vendors?

Thanks, Graham. Mike, are you able to make "any" metal part? For example, how about an internal part of the engine or fuel pump, etc.? How are the quality and durability of the parts made? Would you be able to print by scanning a broken/failed part or need schematics? And, I'm guessing you can only print straight metal parts? Thanks. I was the Software Architect of a project for a major German company building an application in Additive Manufacturing (3D Printing). The process is very complicated. Our application layer focused on error detection and classifications at each layer on the Powder Bed. The expensive hardware and software get updated periodically, undermining investments. The parts need to be tested thoroughly. Automotive parts are very critical in their mission objectives. We don't want the clutch cable snapping or brake pedal giving out at a wrong time! Of course, 3D Printing/Additive Manufacturing is the savior in not only automotive space, but in scores of other industries as well. 3D Printing a human organ? Already happening. Will only get better.

Sure, you'll have specialists rebuilding for well-heeled clientele. We have all kinds of restomods. Mainstream companies themselves offer such services; Porsche Classic, for example. For regular, almost-daily-driven (or, very frequently) cars such as Seven, I still maintain that steady supply of parts would be needed. Of course, competent techs/shops are mandatory as well. Such skill set would be sustained albeit in a smaller scale.

Yes, contemporary cars have so much electronics which would become obsolete sooner and unsupported. All the sensors, displays and such will evolve and older versions could become difficult to get. There might be few safer bets though. Porsche Classic is gaining traction in supporting older models. Or, Honda potentially making parts for NSX and S2000. Lotus may not be a good candidate for reliability though. Think Porsche. Leaving aside few well-documented issues in many models and generations, Porsches are generally reliable (its non-sports cars have a different track record though). At least, I don't carry a spare clutch cable as one or two Seven drivers suggest I do.....! I see your logic. However, that volume is highly fragmented in terms of models and generations. Parts overlap might be very little. So, for an individual supplier, the volume could still be really small. Now add the need to be making parts for contemporary models, that small supplier will be too stretched enough to give up on older models. Yes, I can see the scenario of ICE-aware technicians becoming too few, as others above have pointed out as well. Such skill set could become highly specialized and get pretty expensive. But, cars like Seven are pretty simple and not requiring special electronic tools. In other words, simpler the cars, better would be the chances of finding someone to work on. Thanks everyone for the feedback. However, I'm still not seeing a good pathway for the availability of parts given the need for a steady supply.

What do you guys think about very long term scenario on parts availability, long after ICE Seven's production ended? Based on my very extensive observation, except for the powertrain, Seven's parts have short lifespan. Reading from a ton of posts, over the years, it appears, every part is essentially a consumable, except the engine and transmission. They need to be closely monitored, inspected and replaced; ideally, before they fail! Parts are made for low cost and less weight. So, the specs are much lower than typical production sports cars which weigh much more. This results in parts wearing out sooner. So, we'll need steady supply of these parts. UK has set '30 as sunset for ICE. Seven will switch to electric; they already have a prototype, as you know. So, when the ICE ends, Caterham's suppliers will simply stop making/sourcing parts soon after. The volume of the series production is low to begin with, which means, its suppliers already have a very small market to serve. Some parts can be fabricated; but, most can't be. So, what's your prognosis on how will this play out? How do you plan to keep your Seven still humming for a very long time? If I decide to go ahead with my plan of getting one, I plan to keep it for good! If my body gives out, will simply find a way to park it in my Home Office (I'll be working/coding till I kick the bucket....!) or Home Gym (and, lifting....)!! Thanks.

Is the wind buffeting from the back? Guessing you have windshield and side curtains? If you wear a full-brim hat, would help. S3 is narrow. You think you would be comfortable in SV?

That's pretty awesome, @Stevensonjr! Pretty hardcore mix of rides. Totally agree, those vehicles are definitely keeping you sharp! Yes, it's all about ageing well. Fitness and a diverse life style, among other things, are critical. Thanks for sharing.

Fair point! If you don't get out, you can stay in and keep driving.....! I really hope insulation exists and works! Hot foot-well, especially for the passenger, will be a big problem! I drove a 420R for about 10 mins in cooler ambient and higher elevation. So, have no idea how it is in more representative driving conditions and situations. The reason I wanna avoid removable steering wheel is to eliminate yet another point of failure. Over time, it'll develop a play, simply from usage. I'll be spec'in Trackday Rollcage. I read it helps a lot with ingress/egress. Thanks CBuff. Glad to hear insulation exists. Do your pedal box and passenger foot-well get warm or hot? And, is there space to add additional layer of insulation? Also, do you feel heat from the Transmission Tunnel? If you do, is there space to add insulation in there?

28k with assist? Very impressive! I'm guessing you're able to get in/out of Miata. At least you still have open-top driving. Keep it going as long as you can safely.