charles5448

Nice find, looks solid!! Feel free to run any questions past us. I've had my hands on just about every part of mine. Not sure about the mileage of the car but just make sure the timing chain isn't rattling. Easy enough to source a timing chain tensioner here in the US, but not sure what it would be like for you. Also NGK spark plugs are a must for these engines. I chased a misfire for weeks in mine and it end up being a combination of corrosion on the plug for the ECU and someone using Autolite spark plugs.

This is still my first year driving the WCM in Autocross, so there is still a learning curve. Just used to a car that feels a little tighter than this. In reading some of the responses to this post, I think I'm in-line with what the car should be doing. It looks like our cars have a similar amount of roll in corners. I'm still left wondering what the cure for lift-off oversteer would be? My WCM seems to get super light in the rear and really doesn't enjoy braking and turning-in at the same time. Again, this could be skill but once that rear suspension gets a little unloaded, the rear wants to come around while turning. The best way I've curbed this is doing my braking in a straight line and then feeding it minimal throttle while turning. My main question is, would any sort of spring rate adjustment help reduce this? On the note of the spring diameter, my springs rub my axle shafts when that particular corner gets loaded up. We had to make the front mount for the rear diff and it wasn't until after we finished that I noticed how close the axles were to the shafts. Another issue that seems to factor into this is how the diff is mounted at the rear. Unless my car was missing something (which it was missing a lot), it seems like the diff has the ability to pull those rubber bushings through and make the rubbing even worse. You could even see where the bushing on the right side had pulled out compared to the left side and the difference in color of the bushing that is normally not exposed. To (slightly) curb this, we cut out some giant washers to mount on the fuel tank side to keep the rubber bushing from pulling even further through. Sorry brain dump, a lot of words and thoughts there. Just helpful to hear other people's experience.

Do you happen to know the specs for rake? Like height at all four corners and where you measured from? If you follow the story of my WCM, you'll see I'm starting from scratch on alignment specs.

Any chance you could share your alignment specs with me. I've been guessing since I put the car back together.

I have a r160 3.9 diff in the car right now. Going to end up running 15s to try and get some more gear. I can't reach VTEC in 2nd gear during most autocrosses with the 3.9. I've tried adjusting rake but not sure if I went far enough. The front is around 5.25" and the rear is around 5.5"

My WCM has 225 rears and 450 fronts. I'm trying to dial out some liftoff oversteer while autocrossing. Not sure which direction to head with springs. (i.e. heavier or lighter rear, heavier or lighter front) Worth noting, when turning into a corner, it feels like I need to give the wheel input and it takes a moment for the car to react. I think this is due to the soft suspension on the car needing a moment to load up.

Ended up just welding two smaller fenders together for now. Going to keep looking in the meantime.

Are you running a front sway bar in your car? Also, what are your spring rates? Saw your video of the car on track and it looked super stable. My WCM feels loose when autocrossing. Looking to dial a bit of that out. -Charles

Would love some measurements if you have some time. Still searching to have some made.

That is what I was afraid to hear. Already in the process of sectioning together two fenders to make 1 complete one but was hoping there was a solution I was overlooking. Thanks for the advice!

Hello All, I finally was able to sort out the suspension on my WCM Ultralite and got it out to the local autocross. On my very first run I nailed a cone with the right rear fender and it completely tore the fender off the car. Fender is super mangled up and not salvageable. Does anyone have experience with finding a new fenders? I can find them in all sizes except something that is 12 inches wide. Don't mind ordering more than one just in case it ever happens again. I've called around to local metal shops and truck shops, and no one wants to touch it. Contacted Dexter and the rep estimated I would have to order a "skid" of around 30 fenders. Don't think I'll need that many. Any help or advice is appreciated.

Any help would be much appreciated. I have the car all torn apart now, and I'm trying to determine if I can make what I have work.

Recently picked up a WCM Ultralite that someone tried to adapt a Ford 8.8 diff & knuckles to. I am currently in the process of swapping in a Subaru WRX diff & knuckles. I have the WCM Manual that lists out the "correct"(?) length rear suspension arms but it seems like all of mine are just slightly different than what is listed. I was wondering if someone would please measure out their WCM rear suspension arms if you're running the WRX diff & knuckles. Currently I have: Upper Rear Suspension Link 12" Diagonal Rear Suspension Link 11" Lower Rear Suspension Link 12" Upper Trailing Arm Rear Suspension Link 7.5" Lower Trailer Arm Rear Suspension Link 8" It's strange that everything I have is just slightly off from what the manual says. I find it hard to believe that the person who tried to adapt the Ford 8.8 changed every single bar. Again, just asking for bar lengths from someone that is running a WRX diff & knuckles in a WCM Ultralite. Thanks in advance!!

Pretty interested in the car. Wondered if you might be able to post more pictures or if we could move the conversation over to email. Let me know!