YourEconProf

Also, the car has 3 lights between the tach and speedo: green, red, and blue. I'm assuming that blue is brights, what are green and red?

What would a brake fluid switch test do? This car does have brake lights actuated by fluid pressure.

Also, does anyone know what this switch (the one that looks like it has a pedal on it?) does? I'm now turning to the chassis harness, and this one is confounding me.

It knows the percentage, and then in the CPU, you set up tables for pure gasoline (really E10) and E85, and then the spark & fuel are calculated by interpolating between the two tables. I've converted a few Miatas, and its a really nice system, though it means double the work of tuning, which, with ITBs, I'm not excited about!

Some long overdue updates...work continues! We have the engine harness nearly complete; it's the wiring set from Megasquirt for an MS3Pro Mini that has been adapted to the Caterham. The trigger wheel has been a barrier, but hopefully the custom-made wheel will arrive tomorrow and get welded onto a pulley this week. That will permit crank timing with the the DIYAUTOTUNE Hall effect sensor. Likewise, the blacktop Zetec has a one-tooth intake cam and is already drilled and ready for a cam sensor. This will allow setting it up as a fully sequential fuel system. Also, as the motor is 12:1, I'm installing (as I do on all my cars) an ethanol sensor to tune for flex fuel.

Just a reminder, there is a build thread with much more up to date info over the Build Threads subforum. Is it possible to lock this thread to force conversation over there?

Yes, this is what happened, my friend is used to working on domestic hot rods, and saw the visual similarities. It's actually a Torsen diff, though I'm not sure if that's been swapped into the Marina housing, or a different housing.

Too bad you aren't closer. But if you want to try again, LMK. If it starts & idles on the stock ECU, then getting it to run on a MS3Pro PNP should be super straightforward. Then its about getting it tuned so the turbo doesn't ventilate your block... I messaged you my phone number & email. Feel free to reach out if you want to put that on your to-do list.

So so much that I've learned about the car since connecting with the original builder, @super7guy. In short, the car was listed on BaT twice, and those listings provide a tremendous wealth of information: https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-caterham-super-7/ https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1983-caterham-7/ The VIN was decoded by @Croc in an earlier thread: Chassis number decode LCS4190VCLM LCS = Long cockpit 4190 = chassis number VC – Vegantune VTA engine L = Can mean LHD or live axle. Both apply here. M = Marina/Ital axle (live axle) I'm the 4th owner, 37 years with @super7guy, 2 years in Oregon, 4 years with previous Ohio owner, then me. Motor dyno'd at 200hp according to sheets in BaT listings. Specs are: Focus era 2000 nitrided crank; good for 8k, better to keep to 7.5K crower rods J&E pistons (12:1) Esslinger head (17xx) with oversize valves cams just ground by schneider to 236 I 232 E (I 6-8 thou, E 8-10 thou); best to check clearances before hard run enlarged steel pan; doubled swing gates. ram 2300 clutch 6 puck sprung disk special steel flywheel from UK with weights removed to get to 12 lbs; top fuel 1/2" ARP bolts to 150 ft-lbs

Hang on...you are running a turbo on a stock ECU?!? Oh...so much more news coming in the next couple of posts about that. :-) Any idea on the dates or sponsoring org?

No worries. I'm putting in a MS3Pro Mini (i.e. Megasquirt family) primarily because it's a pretty common ECU, and it will be my 4th or 5th to install. My current issue is that a previous owner put a different flywheel on the Zetec, thus removing the crank trigger, and replaced it with a custom crank pulley that had an odd 4 point timing setup specific to that ECU, which is no longer made or supported. So I'm trying to kludge together a Focus pulley with a 36-1 timing wheel, as the ones for the 2002 Foci with timing wheel don't align with my accessory belt. Further goal is that since this car has ITBs, that I'll add a cam sensor, so I can run full sequential fueling, but I need to get the crank sensor working first.

Get it running. Get it on track at least once. Dyno it for curiosity, probably not Dyno tuned. I’ve already started the new harness and ECU, as I think it’s the quickest path to getting it running.

@super7guy So. Many. Questions. I'll email you directly. In the meantime, I started a build thread here, and there are high quality pictures in the google photos album below, including the chassis stamp--although I've never been able to locate the Caterham ID. https://photos.app.goo.gl/6qKo4TBgRanR2VUN6

Got the schematic done for the engine harness. Now on to the chassis harness... Print Schematic.pdf

That's good to hear. On my list is to change all of the fluids--oil, trans, diff, brake, coolant as I don't know the provenance of any of it. Would love any suggestions on what to use in the trans and diff!

Do you have a part number or year number for that sensor? The hole looks identical to the one on my head, but trying to figure out what actual sensor goes there is tough. Thanks in advance!

Thank you! Now I just need to get the plug out (which I have to remove the cover anyway to set up the timing.)

Also, check this brake action. Not sure how to feel about it. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qyZPJqWsL6Y8P16N7

Got some more work done last weekend. Pulled and mapped the whole engine harness, and laid out the new harness and got everything ordered (I hope). New finds: the factory crank sensor (and flywheel) aren't there any longer; the car has been using a custom Hall sensor supplied by SDSEFI, so now I'm going to have to fab up a bracket and use the DIYAuto tune sensor like in this link: https://www.diyautotune.com/news/crank-and-cam-sensors/ though I've ordered a harmonic dampener with 36 tooth wheel for a 2000 2.0L Focus, so that should at least be easy. I'm still trying to 100% rule out whether this engine has or can use a camshaft position sensor. Could the hole that the throttle spring is attached maybe be a cam position sensor hole? I see that some Zetec-R did have them, and having one would allow me to run sequential fuel injection instead of batch. Otherwise, I have determined that it's a 2.0 Zetec-R Series 3 (horizontal oil filter). The stamping makes it look like probably a 2000? I've also updated the Google Photos album linked above.

Okay, now re-reading your earlier post, I understand what you are saying. I mentally whiffed on the 1" tall ring or bucket. Thank you.

Okay, a combination of work travel, flu and pneumonia has kept this project from going anywhere, but I'm grateful for everyone's help above. I have since found out that this is a 1983 LHD long cockpit based on the AM chassis number. I still haven't uncovered any Caterham chassis numbers, though I haven't actually taken the windshield wiper motor mount off to look at the top of it. Over the weekend, I found the combination of time and energy to put a few hours in, and removed the old computer and have started removing and labelling everything for the engine harness. My current plan is to remove and replace the engine harness, ECU is being replaced with MS3Pro Mini, fuel pump/filter, and relocate the battery from behind the passenger seat to the engine bay. At that point, should be able to focus on getting it running, and then worrying about things like seats & belts, chassis harness, and other bits & bobs. (Pic 1) As was mentioned above, in the passenger side rear of the engine bay were two catch cans, one plumbed to the PCV, one to the valve cover. Both set up cheesy and trashed. I'll run both to a single smaller (each had to be 1-1.5L) vent to atmosphere catch can. Anybody know what *originally* went here in this location (rear passenger side of engine bay) So far identified & labeled the headlight, fan, and fuel pump relays. Still 3 more relays to go. Relocating battery to the bay will clean up a lot of wiring due to the lack of a distribution point for +. Someone decided to make that the starter motor (Pic 2) and there are at least 6 extra wires coming off the positive terminal that then proceed to lallygag through the car. I know that lack of spark was the issue, and I'm replacing the ECU, and the coils were already replaced, so I'm going to replace the ignition module, too, with one made by ECU maker to keep settings and compatibility easy, even if it will cost me a few extra bucks. Pic 3 is the ignition module that was in it. Pic 4. So this guy was just flopping about under the intake. Pic 5. The brake lights in this car are actuated by a pressure sensor on a dedicated brake line instead of a mechanical switch at the pedal. Is this a Lotus/Caterham thing? Some requests/questions: Any thoughts suggestions on battery size/where to locate and good solutions for attaching? I've always liked the look of the base-mounted Optima batteries. Pic 6, if I remove the windshield and the two bolts under each side where it attaches to the frame, can I lift off the cowl cover and leave the dash in place? I can't really see anywhere else it attaches. If so, would be much easier to work on backside of dash.

So...the tank in this 7 doesn't sit flat, it tilts from back to front by about 2" or so. I'm assuming just need to make sure the sock is adequate? That link is just for the hanger and bracket but not the pump, but I have a 165lph in tank pump for a Miata that I think I can just use and make sure any in tank plumbing is right to deal with differing depths/slopes? Does that sound right?

Thank you so much for your reply. There are a lot of things I haven't see here before, either! Honestly, I'm not sure long-term plans. I already have a track car, in fact I totaled my old one this year, and just bought the replacement a week before the Caterham. In a perfect world, I'd like to get the Cat running by track season (really starts up in April, as I live in Ohio) and at least see what it's like on track. Then probably will decide which to keep unless I land some big contracts this year and keep both. So for now, I'm building as a street/track-curious? I had the same thought about the exhaust going into the cabin. I figure at this point, its not broke, so I'm not going to fix it, but yes, odd. That is the throttle return spring, and the loop is just to take up some slack in the wire.

So, as I'm starting to take apart the car, I have so many questions. Another new one...there is a hose that runs from the exhaust just behind the headers to what appears to be a large black catch can, when then has a hose going to a large stamped part on the side of the block just below the headers. Does anyone know what that might be?

I finally got the car up on stands today, and got pictures of the diff. I know its got 3.75" BCD on all four corners. Can anyone see what this is (sorry the pictures are upside down...not sure what that's about, but are normal in the Google gallery)