SevenHeaven

Hmm, I just bought for mountain biking a LED that is much brigher, less power, and more durable, than any HID (by Dinotte) so I was thinking... This just might be available in headlamp... Just now did a google: found: http://www.levineautoparts.com/ledheadlight4.html Which seems to be in same range of current as you mentioned above. But of course no info on light output. So I wonder: anyone know more about these or others LEDs. Would love to just drop in a bulb without ballast or other mods.

Is there not a standard 7" LED replacement bulb? What does an old fashioned tungsten bulb draw?

Jim, I'm in New York, and in order to get the car registered, I had to first trailer it to the NYS, Vice Squad!!! (really). No driving it either. There they inspected all the serial numbers. They told me from the engine number, exactly what car, and what junk yard, the ford contour engine came from. So, not sure if that helps much, but obviously in NYS there is a database, on every sn, of every car and car part that is numbered... And the vice squad has access. But who knows who else can see this?

YES Thank you Mike, and Sean. I now fully understand how the Vin chart works as well. Very useful, very helpful, thanks so much. For my next Caterham, I might actually know what I'm getting :-) BUT what the heck is a "alternative chassis"?

Ok OK, I just read the chart you sent me, 10 times!!! thanks so much, I have it... Wow, takes a PHD in chart reading .... So it's a 2001 ... (I think ) thanks!

My Vin: SDKLDKANS10022003 10'th digit starting where? it was first registered in 2001.

Is there an easy way to tell what year the chassis? I believe it was built in 1999 or 2000. The LED's are for sure in one guage (the right one as facing, but darned if I can for sure remember which is which right now) There are three Leds, blue=hi beam, green=directional, red= unknown. Both the previous owner, and Delaware dealer, said the red light was supposed to be ON, to "indicate alternator working" (but I could have miss heard...) I became skeptical, when I had those codes listed eariler, and am still UNABLE to get the idle reliably below 1500 rpm. More than likely I confused everyone (including myself) by asking about the check engine light, which I guess, does not exist. SO I guess, what I'd like to know, is is this red light really supposed to be ON? NOTE: I'm a novice to this car, so: "pin 2 of ECU"? how do I get to that? "that would be the MIL light"? Meaning "the red light may indicate that the ignition switch is on"? This may be exactly what they were trying to tell me, but it didn't make sense then, and I would still love to be sure. Also would love to have it idle correctly, (and maybe warm up could be smoother too.) Thanks for all your help.

Oh dear, so to be clear, this little red light I'm seeing (inside the speedometer, next to the turn signal, and high beam light) is NOT the check engine light, but rather the "not charging light" ??? Hmm never thought to check, cause the car starts (one year now), runs at night with lights on etc. What exactly is the next step? thanks much -geoff

I was told the SAME exact thing. (maybe). I was told it was the alternator light, and shows WHEN ON(red) that the alternator is working. (hmmm) No so sure about this, as its on even when engine not running!!! Ie, ignition on but not started.. So tell me, what is the red light really? And why always on? The other lights, are the turn signal (green) and High beam (blue) Yes it is supposedly a fully "standard Caterham/Zetec". (As per the Delaware Dealer...) Sorry, I forget his name. thanks -geoff

As for 730 to 753 you are right it is the lack of an auto box. - P0730 Incorrect Gear Ratio - P0750 Shift Solenoid A Malfunction - P0753 Shift Solenoid A Electrical I have not found a way to solve this one. For what it is worth, in my Seven the engine light only comes on during start up, it goes off immediately afterwards. However, I still have the engine code exceptions prevent the DMV reading the car via OBD II software. How is it then, if you get air condition and auto trans codes, that your red light EVER goes off. I thought they all had to be clear??? I also get OBD errors for the air conditioning. I guess you have air conditioning fitted in your Seven? I do not get the air conditioning codes.. BUT now that I think about it, my Caterham came with the standard air package. . The down side is; to turn it off, you have to mount this cumbersome tarp like thing over the car, attached with cheap snaps, and held up with a couple of really weak tubes, that I think came from some one's umbrella. It mostly dampens the "air conditioning" but still leaves major inlets of air, the same inlets, in fact where all the rain comes in, on less nice days. Turns out, in fact, that this 'anti air conditioning' option, is so handy, and so useful, and so much fun to use, that I leave it home in garage, where it keeps the dust off my tools. Thanks much for you help. I will very much like to have the code document. -geoff

The little red light, is on. (and always has been, since I bought the car) (assuming this is the 'check engine light?) Its a 1998 Zetec, in a Caterham 1.) Not sure it's desirable or necessary, but NYS seems to want this off for inspection... 2.) Getting two codes: 1451 (my ford guy says, its: fuel tank pressure HIGH) & 171 (lean condition) Can anyone tell me what these really mean, and perhaps a cure? 3.) Also getting three codes that have to do with a missing or nonfunctional auto transmission. (NO KIDDING, I've not found one either) I believe these codes are 750, 730, 753, but did not write them down. So should it, or can it be a goal to get the 'little red light off'? And even so, what is the 'lean condition' and High pressure? Thanks -geoff

Can't quite tell where those parts are ON YOUR photo. Can't see where in relation to entire intake... But here is picture of mine, with arrows pointing to what I'm guessing is the equivalent??? Ok so I did spray cleaner in there, and yes the engine bogged down a bit, (but it should no?). I did not detect any leaks.. I can see the idle on mine is just like yours. Seems odd that you have to remove the throttle bracket screw to get at it? Is that correct? thanks much

Ok, I don't see it. Here are a couple pictures... thanks

Ok thanks every one. The ODB II connector was FINE, it fit at the second SHOP, perfectly ( I suspect the first shop just didn't like that 'foreign car') Ultimately the problem was solved by simply replacing the plugs and wires. These wires have a LONG bakelite tube that goes down in the spark plug well, and two of these were visibly wet with water droplets, its been raining here for two weeks and even though in a garage with a breathable cover etc. It was just condensation in there (I suppose)... In any case I just replaced the wires, and the plugs.. AND PERFECTION... There certainly could have been a crack too, in the bakelite? But nothing like new dry wires to clean things up. I have one problem now, and that is it idle's at about 1500 1600 rpm... How do i calm it down.. thanks -geoff

Thanks Chip and others. Why do you suppose my ford dealer is saying he can't plug that connector to his computer? He said it physically does not fit! Hmmm I will try another today... thanks all