7ishNZ

Thanks, Hank.. that's what I needed to know. Is the slip joint on the front or rear section of your propshaft, is is your motor mounted so that the flange is vertical in the chassis, or does it slope back slightly? Cheers, Evan.

With a 2 piece shaft, where do you mount the center bearing?? Should it be on the straight line between the diff and the motor, or should you keep one section as an extension of the diff flange with 0 degrees angle, and let the front section carry all the angles? This is with a bike engine and a solid mounted IRS diff.

Will the original bike pump be OK when mounted in the tank at the back of the car? On the bike the distance between pump and injection is only a few inches... I am concerned about the pump coping with the extra plumbing length. Anyone used the bike pump? Thanks.

Thanks.. I have seen the burns suggestion for a 4-2-1 system, though they don't specify which cylinders should be paired. I am guessing that 1+4, 2+3 are the correct pairings for the R1. I was wondering what length Jeff Underwood used on his 4-1 system.. it looks pretty good!

I did not get the stock pipes when I bought my motor.. I am about to make a 4 into 1 header. I believe the R1 has a primary length of 16" ..? Can anyone confirm that for me? Thanks.

Thanks... I think I'll stick to the stock clutch with barnett springs..

What are your thoughts on having a slipper clutch in a bEC.... a good idea or not? I have a Yamaha R1 with an option for a slipper unit.

I only need one 'cause it's a legal requirement:mad:

Mainly... the price!! Also absorbs some horsepower and adds weight.

I was trying to come up with a better idea than a ring gear and auto style starter motor... how about this... What about using an auto starter motor with a small multi-rib v-belt pulley in place of the stock gear, driving to a similar but larger pulley on the driveshaft, with the belt being tensioned by a slip roller when reverse was required. You could control the motor with a micro switch that energized when the belt was tight, and you could ensure that the belt did not drag on the driveshaft when not in use... That way you would prevent the large shock loadings of a fixed ring gear, it would reduce the current drain of a solenoid( not required) and the high start torque power drain, and you could mount it anywhere you had space. Comments, anyone??

What is the accepted starting place for spring rates for a R1 powered locost? I was thinking about 250 lb/in front, 200 lb/in rear. Mainly for road and a bit of track. Thanks.

I have a diff that has the pinion offset about an inch to the right. In the source car, the axles are different lengths to put the prop shaft in the middle of the car. In the seven... do I want a central drive shaft or equal length axles?

Yamaha R1, about 500kgs all up.... 195x55x15 tyres....

I am keen to know what diffs people are using in their bec's... something with an ali housing and a ratio around 3.3 would be ideal.. Thanks.