IDreamOfChapman Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 (edited) Hi all - new member here. I just bought what you might call a new-old-stock 2002 Caterham Roadsport which has a Rocky Mountain Motorsports-supplied Zetec w/ Pectel ECU and Jenvey ITB's (the 205 horsepower one, which I think is identical to the one this thread is about). * correction - they are TWM ITB's with a Jenvey airbox * The car was very rarely driven and has 890 miles total on it since it was delivered in 2002. Anyhow - I just went out and measured the impedance of the injectors on the motor and they are 2.2 Ohms. I am guessing then I need to replace these with a different part. So, I was wondering, can you tell me: 1- What Bosch part # did you use here? EV1? EV14? Something else? 2- I assume that I will need to take the car in to be re-tuned after replacing the injectors. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can take it near Portland, Oregon? 3- Should I refrain from driving the car until I take care of this? I don't want to burn out the ECU! (I've only had the car two weeks, though, and so you can imagine how hard this will be for me) 4- Researching this on the web, I see that some people install an injector resistor box in-line instead of changing them. Any major downsides to this approach? Would this also affect how the car runs / require a re-tune? (The car actually runs extremely well right now, I am kind of surprised how well it pulls from low RPM's given the type of intake it has). Thanks for any advice / experience anyone can lend. I am not at all new to cars and hot rodding but I am pretty new to dealing with ECUs and injector tuning (old school carb guy). I will go read up on this separately as well... Thanks! Edited February 17, 2013 by IDreamOfChapman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted February 16, 2013 Author Share Posted February 16, 2013 Hi all - new member here. I just bought what you might call a new-old-stock 2002 Caterham Roadsport which has a Rocky Mountain Motorsports-supplied Zetec w/ Pectel ECU and Jenvey ITB's (the 205 horsepower one, which I think is identical to the one this thread is about). The car was very rarely driven and has 890 miles total on it since it was delivered in 2002. Anyhow - I just went out and measured the impedance of the injectors on the motor and they are 2.2 Ohms. I am guessing then I need to replace these with a different part. So, I was wondering, can you tell me: 1- What Bosch part # did you use here? EV1? EV14? Something else? 2- I assume that I will need to take the car in to be re-tuned after replacing the injectors. Anyone have any suggestions as to where I can take it near Portland, Oregon? 3- Should I refrain from driving the car until I take care of this? I don't want to burn out the ECU! (I've only had the car two weeks, though, and so you can imagine how hard this will be for me) 4- Researching this on the web, I see that some people install an injector resistor box in-line instead of changing them. Any major downsides to this approach? Would this also affect how the car runs / require a re-tune? (The car actually runs extremely well right now, I am kind of surprised how well it pulls from low RPM's given the type of intake it has). Thanks for any advice / experience anyone can lend. I am not at all new to cars and hot rodding but I am pretty new to dealing with ECUs and injector tuning (old school carb guy). I will go read up on this separately as well... Thanks! My engine is equipped with the Pectel T2 ECU, and I assume yours is also. My ITB is from the TWN/Borla manufacture but they are the same as the Jenvy in the sense they have individual throttle bodies and individual injectors. My initial fuel pressure was set at 62 psi and as I stated earlier, the injectors were the low impedance type like yours. I bought the Bosch 40 or 42 lb injectors with 16 ohm impedance, EV1 connector type from Bill at C-F-M Motorsports in Orlando. I also bought an AEM Air Fuel Ratio gauge which I highly recommend as well. And yes, you will need to remap the Pectel fuel map and may need to adjust the ignition map as well, depending on how yours is set up. You will need the Pectel connection cable that allows you to connect the ECU to your lap top computer via a serial port (DB9). The Pectel end of the cable looks like a big microphone plug. Most lap top computers today don't have serial ports, they use the more common USB ports. I tried several USB-serial conversion adpaters and software and finally gave up getting them to work. I had to buy an older Dell laptop on eBay ($120) that had Windows XP and a serial port. You will need the Pectel software disc to load on your laptop. And (most important) you will need to have access to a dyno to fine tune the engine and get the air fuel ratios in the safe area. Ok, having said all that, you may feel overwhelmed. I can help you with a lot of this. I can give you my fuel map and ignition map so you can load it on the Pectel as a starting point. Heck, it may be all you need. By the way, I lowered my fuel pressure down to a safer and saner 42 psi and installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge at the end of the fuel rail so I can monitor it as needed. The fuel rail should have a pressure regulator that allows adjusting the fuel pressure. It is the return line of the fuel system. The important thing is keeping the air fuel ratio in a safe zone, around 12.8 to 13.5. Keep in mind that 14.5 is considered ideal for perfect combustion but is really too lean for safe WOT running. It wouldn't be so bad if these engines were equipped with knock sensors to warn of pre-ignition or detonation, but they don't and even if they did, this Pectel wouldn't know what to do with it. With the AEM gauge comes a wide band O2 sensor and a bung if needed to weld into the exhaust. My car was equipped with two O2 sensor bungs installed, one before the muffler and one after the muffler. I used the one after the muffler. However, when we were figuring things out and I had the benefit of Tom (1Turbofocus) to guide me along. He had me plug it into the front one also to compare if we got the same reading. By the way, if you can get his assistance on your motor, it will be a great big help. He knows the Zetec motors inside and out, and he does know how to tune them. It was because of his insight that I was able to figure things out. He is not only very sharp, he is also one heck of a nice guy. Let me know if you need any specific information to help you along. The fact that you were insightful enough to check the impedance of your injectors shows you know a good deal about your engine. I'll do whatever I can to help you along. By the way, some Pectel ECU's are locked and cannot be programmed without the password, or have to be reflashed by Neal @ Apex. He strongly advises you not to open the ECU box since this will void certain warranties. The reflashing runs about $60 and includes a new software disc for you to load to creat your maps. Keep in mind that when it is reflashed, there is nothing left on the ECU and you have to start from scratch, a daunting task. However, you could then load my map into it and just adjust the parameters you need. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDreamOfChapman Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 Awesome, thanks. I have access to tons of old computers, so I won't have a problem getting an old laptop with a serial port. On the AFR gauge: did you permanently install that? I already have an O2 sensor on my exhaust (it is on the collector just ahead of the muffler) which is already hooked in. It is in the only bung on the exhaust. On the pectel disc / serial cable: I don't suppose you know the wiring diagram for that cable? It sounds trivially easy to just make one. Also, where can you get the software? Can anyone identify the ECU model? All I know is it is supposed to be a Pectel unit. It's stuck to the firewall and it kind of looks like the Pectel T2 images I see on the web (see attached). It does have the 1/4" jack on the dashboard for connecting a laptop if that helps narrow it down. I do have a pressure regulator on my fuel rail. I will get a pressure gauge and put it on there. Thanks! I am sure more questions will be forthcoming. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDreamOfChapman Posted February 16, 2013 Share Posted February 16, 2013 On the pectel disc / serial cable: I don't suppose you know the wiring diagram for that cable? It sounds trivially easy to just make one. Also, where can you get the software? Can anyone identify the ECU model? All I know is it is supposed to be a Pectel unit. It's stuck to the firewall and it kind of looks like the Pectel T2 images I see on the web (see attached). It does have the 1/4" jack on the dashboard for connecting a laptop if that helps narrow it down. OK - nevermind. I just found a wiring diagram so I will make a serial cable. Also, I am pretty sure it has to be a T2 since all the other Pectel ECUs look different (the wiring diagram manual has images of all the others and it only looks like a T2). Now I just need to find out where to get a current version of the software... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted February 17, 2013 Author Share Posted February 17, 2013 OK - nevermind. I just found a wiring diagram so I will make a serial cable. Also, I am pretty sure it has to be a T2 since all the other Pectel ECUs look different (the wiring diagram manual has images of all the others and it only looks like a T2). Now I just need to find out where to get a current version of the software... Most of the Pectel units for this time era are the T2. I pulled the wiring diagrams off the internet since I didn't have anything from Caterham that referenced the Pectel T2. I think you have the TWN/Borla ITB's because yours look just like mine. You can tell from the pressure regulator which will reference the TWN name. It makes no difference since the ITB's pretty much all work the same. There could be a difference in the TPS but I doubt it. For the life of me, I don't understand why they put low impedance injectors in these that can't be correctly configured by the Pectel unit. I put the pressure gauge on the end of the fuel rail by drilling the blue anodized plug and threading it with an 1/8" npt tap and screwing the gauge directly into it. Put the allen wrench in the pressure reg and screw it out until your unit is around 40 to 42 psi. You can PM me and give me your email address so I can send you the latest Pectel map for you to install. Apparently you need the software disc as well. I can make you a copy of mine or you can obtain one from Neal @ Apex Speed Tech. You won't know if your unit is locked or unlocked until you hook up with the software and try to read the current maps. Mine had about four different maps for different engine configurations (turbo, non-turbo, etc) and of course none of them were what I needed. On the Pectel cable, I bough mine from Neal at Apex Speed Technology in California who happen to be the USA dealer for Pectel. I had the software disc from the original owner but he never fooled with the software or mapping. Oh, one more thing you will need is the air flow gauge for setting the ITB's initial throttle plate and TPS. I found one on eBay for around $45 which works just great. The other way of doing it is drilling and tapping each runner for an 1/8" npt hose barb and using a vacuum gauge (PITA). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDreamOfChapman Posted February 17, 2013 Share Posted February 17, 2013 Thanks! I will contact the apex speed guys and start gathering parts... I'd appreciate the fuel map you have and I will PM you my email address. -Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IDreamOfChapman Posted March 18, 2013 Share Posted March 18, 2013 (edited) So, I wanted to post a big THANK YOU to Klasik-69 here for all his help. It's been invaluable. Including sending me the ECU maps he paid good money for. I ended up making my own cable and got the same injectors to replace the ones on my car. I still need to take it to a shop to do a final tuning run just to make sure it is all good, but my AFR is fine and the car runs great (better than when I got it - the ass-dyno detects a clear bump in torque at around 2200 RPM compared to before). And I know I won't burn up my ECU by pulling too much current. So, THANK YOU and happy motoring! (note smiles ) Edited March 18, 2013 by IDreamOfChapman Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Klasik-69 Posted March 19, 2013 Author Share Posted March 19, 2013 It's a pleasure knowing that I was able to help someone else. It's usually the other way around. A lot of very smart people on this forum have helped me whenever it was needed. Good luck with the car and be safe.:bigear: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1turbofocus Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 I have been working with the Zetec engine for a long time , In WOT I wouldn't set the A/F above 12.9 you will se little to no HP / TQ loss but hugh safety Tom Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sdaddy Posted April 2, 2013 Share Posted April 2, 2013 I have been working with the Zetec engine for a long time , In WOT I wouldn't set the A/F above 12.9 you will se little to no HP / TQ loss but hugh safety Tom FWIW, the standard Jenvy "target" map is between 12.5 and 13.0 at WOT depending on RPM. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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