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About dinanminicooper

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  1. I have decided to sell the car. Being looked over right now to ensure perfect. Might you have interest before I open it up to the forum? Car will be available end of June. Hope all is well. Best regards, Matt cell 720-369-3525
  2. Just wanted to clarify - a used engine that came off a low mileage, well maintained (not crashed, salvage, etc) Megabusa was what was lightly rebuilt for this Megabusa. The old motor was of course trash, and new oil cooler, lines, etc were added due to not being able to validate metal particles not in original oiling system. Rgds DMC
  3. So this car is now officially up for sale. As many of you know, I blew the motor due to insufficient oiling - likely dry sump got some air into it and kaboom! Now the car has been fixed and done to a very high spec by Richard Cottrill at http://www.rilltechracing.com. He works exclusively on bike engined cars and in 2011 3 of his customers' cars were on the podium at the SCCA runoffs at Road America, and one of his motors powers a DSR that holds the overall fastest lap time at HPR in Colorado. I spent over $12K to get the car sorted - not only was the original engine is somewhat ba
  4. I think fastg has it. SBC dry sump from what I am learning is somewhat sensitive to pump install. Although motor not out, failure likely due to crank bearing oiling issue. My thought after chats with BEC racers (CSR/DSR/F1000). Custom wet sump pan that works. Simple. Lighter. Baffled (not me) to 2g++. Sealed Low Miles motor. Rice dust intact. Any way, this gonna costa. Anyone want to buy it and have some fun after I do it up right? Flat shifter going back in too.
  5. Graham - thanks for the advice and offer. I have started to contact a number of engine builders but I'm not feeling the love with all of them. The oiling system is a SBD Motorsports dry sump system, UK based. Would an oiling issue cause conrod bolts to fail? Unlikely I think. Yes, I would appreciate talking with that shop. I am also talking to other BEC car owners (CSR/DSR/F1000) and learning from them. I have time, not planning on doing anything soon, will wait until winter and do my research and then build a really good, strong motor. Thanks again. DMC
  6. I don't think the flatshifter is the solution. My right foot works fine on braking and blipping for downshifting along with the left clutch and right hand. In addition, the previous owner had that "paddle shifted bitches" kit on and couldn't get it to work properly. I am guessing because too much friction in shift mechanism with the actual manual shift kit remaining. In any case, my downshift technique is by no means the reason why 12,000 mile OE conrod bolts to crank failed. I learned my very expensive lesson. Used bike engines WILL blow up in BECs. Also, how can you be fast ou
  7. Blew up the motor today at the track. Redline 6th gear on main straight, downshifting 5th, then 4th, then boom! Sayonara bye bye! Elwood: Oh no! Jake: What the f@&$ was that? Elwood: We threw a rod! Jake: Is that serious? Elwood: Yup. Rod bolt failure on one cylinder, threw rod out side of crankcase. New engine needed, hope valves not damaged. Ideas on rebuild please? Get used crankcase, or complete used engine and rebuild? Considering Carrillo rods, CP pistons, head work. Also looking at 1397 kit. Want to stay away from turbo but want nice strong motor. Better
  8. If you are interested, I've posted a couple of videos under Bike Engined Sevens. Enjoy!
  9. Here are a couple of videos I took yesterday in my 2009 Westfield Megabusa. They are relatively long and unedited, but I figured I'd post anyway. On the first video, I had already done a couple of sessions prior to this, but tires are heat cycled out and I am having trouble getting enough heat into the Hoosiers in any case, so naturally I spun on the first lap. Rest of the session went better, but I did have some shifting issues. Still learning the car for sure! [/url] Second video has a different perspective, a really nice Porsche RSR and a Porsche RS America featured. Did run off
  10. Back from half day lapping, car intact, but 2 off course excursions. Have video and will post soon! Car worked great, some oversteer but in general quite a neutral setup. Hoosiers are heat cycled out I fear - got them used and not happy how they performed.
  11. Now thinking, alignment check done w/o my 180 lbs in car. So rake could be more towards optimum with me in it. We'll see. Will report back with video tomorrow.
  12. OK, alignment reviewed today. And results are: LF Camber: -1.9 RF Camber: -2.0 Front Toe OUT: 1/16" LR Camber: -1.0 RR Camber: -1.0 Rear Toe IN: 1/16" Front Ride Height: 100mm Rear Ride Height: 135mm Rake (R-F): 35mm Nitron F: 10 clicks Nitron R: 8 clicks I am taking to track tomorrow and will see how that rake affects the beast. Might also mess around with shock clicks, but mostly excited to get the car on the track. Any hints for tire pressures (Hoosier R6s). Thanks DMC
  13. Oil leak done, alignment results to be posted to another thread. High Plains Raceway calling my name tomorrow morning, should I record video? Hmmm.....
  14. Well the oil leak not yet solved. Hopefully tomorrow it will be after scavenge pump o rings do the trick. Weighing soon, thankfully I have removed some fat from my ass recently. HPR Friday open lapping. Will weigh before NASA TT at PPIR in 2 weeks and report back.
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