paulmon

I'm officially insured. Now the fun begins making sure the car is reliable and the suspension works.

Experimenting? Platidip just peels off, so there is no risk of damage to the metal. I've used it a bunch of times, it's freaking amazing stuff. Paul

Already tested on my nose, and there are spots it didn't stick like little holes in the finish. This is what lead to wet sanding and now maybe just a good going over with a scotch brite pad. It looks fine from afar but one close look and there are spots of no plasti-dip. http://www.brutusv8.com/misc/driver-side-sml.jpg The other options is vinyl wrap which requires no prep but costs more money.

I think you're right, I think I'm over thinking this. Perhaps the 3M pad would do. I'll try it on a couple of spots and see how clean it gets. Just need to have a clean surface free of any contamination to make sure the PlastiDip sticks evenly. Heck this stuff goes over clearcoat with no issue so raw aluminium should be a cinch.

I've secured insurance and have my plates, my beast is now road legal!

Here is some revving engine fun:

No that's my buddy's shop up north where we built the car. Car itself is in Mississauga now.

Ok, some luck, found a broker that has seemingly managed to convince an insurance company to take me on, it's going to cost me and I need to move my daily driver and home insurance, but it looks like this will happen. *happy dance*

I was thinking maybe the rough surface would suffice. Certainly using an orbital sander will SERIOUSLY speed things up.

My Aluminium body is a few years old now and heavily marred with corrosion, and scratches. It was never polished or clear coated as I was too busy working on the car itself to worry about cosmetics. I'm thinking of wet sanding the entire car with 320 then maybe 400. I'm not planning on conventionally painting the car, I'm going to use plastidip, so I don't need to get the metal completely finished just enough that there are no blemishes preventing the plastidip from sticking. Anyone have any advice for wet sanding so much aluminium? What about random orbital power sanders? Paul

I think I've got enough power and I can always turbo. LOL

The Optispark is still there but it's just as a timing source now, it's output now goes to a module called the LTCC which controls the coils.

Registered as a 2008 Richmond (Ministry of Transport based that on my receipts), Car is 100% built from scratch. I'm 6'3" and 200lbs, I don't fit in my Seven cars as I'm too tall, so the car was "tall sized" for me. I'm looking for insurance right now, a thankless task with nothing but disappointment. Next step in development is to test suspension, handling, breaking, make sure it doesn't overheat, calibrate the speedometer, and tune the PCM (which needs miles for datalogging). The REAL fun is about to start. Chassis: Custom made from 1.5" ERW and 1.5 DOM Body: Hand fabricated aluminum Engine: Chevy LT-1 V8 from a 1994 Camaro bored to 355 with forged pistons, custom cooling and ignition (coil on plug conversion), custom intake and straight side pipes Transmission: T56 6-Speed from Camaro Brakes: Wilwood 4 piston with dual master cylinders Suspension: Custom inboard coilovers with wishbones up front and live axle rear with panhard bar. Wheels: Custom made 15x7 front and 15x8 rear Basset steel racing wheels Tires: 205/50-15 front ad 225/50-15 rear Weight: 1600lbs (rather portly) Power: ~350HP (rather ridiculous) Torque: ~325lb/ft@2000RPM (insanity!) http://www.brutusv8.com/misc/driver-side-sml.jpg http://www.brutusv8.com/misc/brutusengine-sml.jpg http://www.brutusv8.com/misc/front-sml.jpg

Nice! One Insurance broker killed me today, told me they'd cover me, cleared it with Underwriter then after taking my info called me back to say the underwriter made a mistake and they couldn't cover me. Killed me.

Cool. What car do you drive?