paulmon

Yeah rewiring whole thing would obviously be much more work. In my case I wideband O2 and a knock sensor would be the only wiring additions.

Thanks looking for the ones with headrests like the Tillett B6.

I have a locked MBE ECU in my 2008 Sigma 150. The tune on the 150s was never great from caterham. I have two options I can order and unlock unit from the UK and try to find someone here to tune it in Canada or get it tuned remotely from the UK. The other option is to do something like a haltech and just create an adapter between the caterham harness and the haltech. I would prefer not to cut the existing wires in case of next owner wants to go back to the stock ECU for whatever reason down the road. Has anyone had anybody create an adapter? I might give it a go myself but I don't have patience for wiring. Doesn't even need to be haltech anything that is common in the North America market would suffice.

Hey thanks. The S3 version is a little skinny for my SV and likely a little skinny for me. 🤣

Looking for a pair of Caterham SV width Fiberglass race seats to replace my leather seats in my SV. Long shot but figured I would ask.

I'm officially insured. Now the fun begins making sure the car is reliable and the suspension works.

Experimenting? Platidip just peels off, so there is no risk of damage to the metal. I've used it a bunch of times, it's freaking amazing stuff. Paul

Already tested on my nose, and there are spots it didn't stick like little holes in the finish. This is what lead to wet sanding and now maybe just a good going over with a scotch brite pad. It looks fine from afar but one close look and there are spots of no plasti-dip. http://www.brutusv8.com/misc/driver-side-sml.jpg The other options is vinyl wrap which requires no prep but costs more money.

I think you're right, I think I'm over thinking this. Perhaps the 3M pad would do. I'll try it on a couple of spots and see how clean it gets. Just need to have a clean surface free of any contamination to make sure the PlastiDip sticks evenly. Heck this stuff goes over clearcoat with no issue so raw aluminium should be a cinch.

I've secured insurance and have my plates, my beast is now road legal!

Here is some revving engine fun:

No that's my buddy's shop up north where we built the car. Car itself is in Mississauga now.

Ok, some luck, found a broker that has seemingly managed to convince an insurance company to take me on, it's going to cost me and I need to move my daily driver and home insurance, but it looks like this will happen. *happy dance*

I was thinking maybe the rough surface would suffice. Certainly using an orbital sander will SERIOUSLY speed things up.

My Aluminium body is a few years old now and heavily marred with corrosion, and scratches. It was never polished or clear coated as I was too busy working on the car itself to worry about cosmetics. I'm thinking of wet sanding the entire car with 320 then maybe 400. I'm not planning on conventionally painting the car, I'm going to use plastidip, so I don't need to get the metal completely finished just enough that there are no blemishes preventing the plastidip from sticking. Anyone have any advice for wet sanding so much aluminium? What about random orbital power sanders? Paul