wcmgoldie

This is a 2004 world class motorsports ultralight S2K. It was a small company that made about 50 cars. This was one of the easiest models and was used as a cannonball race car. Iv owned the car about 10 years and only drove it one the street. It’s Pennsylvania registered and I believe can be grandfathered in other states. It can use some clean up cosmetically but everything works as it should. The car has many upgrades the other cars built never had such as WRX 4:10 rear diff, shortened oil pan, and shoulder bolt upgrades. The engine I was told was a low mileage train wreck motor that was rebuilt and had almost no miles when put in the car. It now has 15,000 miles on it. The good is painted and the body is wrapped. The body is chrome polished aluminum under the wrap as well as the fenders. The AP1 engine is stock except AEM ECU tuned by Evans tuning. 0-60 on the car is about 3.2 seconds. Curb weight I believe is 1200 pounds. It was featured in a few magazines that would come with the car. It also comes with a intensive repair manual and complete parts list. Repairs are generally simple and cheap and nothing has broke except at control arm and fender bracket from a pot hole for me. I owned the car since 2000 miles on the odometer. The car also has a new ultrashield driver seat put in last month which was $800. Videos and more pictures available upon request.

It's registered in PA now. The vin is from texas I believe.

This is the world class motorsports ultralight formerly known as “ Goldie”. Thu car was used by company to race the cannonball 1lap America and many other events. Many people know much more about this cars history than I do. The car mechanically is 10/10 is just has some cosmetic issues like slight tears in the seat covers and dash and dash wiring could use to cleaned up. Everything works as it should though. The car has a train wreck f20a that had no miles when put in the car. It now has 15,000 miles. Engine is stock except AEM series 2 tune by Evans tuning. This car had him joints and shoulder bolts replaced 1,000 miles ago with Teflon heims. The car has a shortened oil pan and many other extras other WCM cars didn't have. It also has a very low geared diff making it quicker than most. I also have carbon fenders and hood that I made. Also spare aluminum fenders and 15” wheels with slick that are probably dried out. The good is newly painted and the body is vinyl wrapped which could use a new wrap. It's not hard to do yourself.

I have wrx rear rotors and wanted to change them to the wilwood drilled rotors. It looks like my caliper and bracket will work but a front rotor will not fit on the rear. It looks like the hat is shorter on the rear than the front brakes but the rotor seems to be the correct size. Anyone know part sizes for the brake rotors and hats?

I’m in the process of changing all my heims and shoulder bolts and wanted to change to nylon heims. Roman gave me a lot of advice but said the nylon heims are thicker and may bind in some places and Teflon heims would need to be used in those places. I was wondering if anyone switched nylon heims and knows places they will bind and any spacers used. Roman said a washer has to be ground down to take up some slip be he didn’t recall the size. I’m always open to hear others experience.

Seeing if anyone was selling street wheels off their ultralight. Seeing what people had before I bought team dynamics.

Thanks so much Jerry, it was super easy once I knew I could hammer that big cap off. The video from qa1 makes it easy. They just don't have that cap pressed into the inner tube so it looks like a different shock and I didn't want to break it not knowing what I was doing.

Thank you. I think mine is leaking from the same place. I just thought while its apart I'll replace it all.

I have original qa1 shocks on my Wcm ultralight, 8243 series with red anodizing. One rear strut was leaking oil for awhile so I finally got around to try to rebuilt it. I called qa1 and they told me I need gasket kit RK04. The problem is I'm not sure how to get the inner tube apart. There is detailed directions online which I attached but it seems to explain the design of the large body shocks not the small body shock. The videos are the same they don't show a shock with a self contained inner tube. Mine there seems to be a valving stack in the bottom held on with a 10mm low profile nut seen in image 4 of the attachments. One that is off there doesn't seem to get anything else I can do. Maybe I have to take it apart from the top? The images on the directions seem to be two different style shocks. Mine looks like the one on image 4 but image 3 seems to be the large body shock that is seen in the videos. Has anyone had experience taking these apart?

Thanks for the reply powderbrake. I will have to give them a call and see if they can still make me a seat. If you do fine anymore info that would be great!

I may have asked this a few years back but I wanted a new seat for my ultralight. Mine has a full size racing seat for the driver and a small WCM embroidered passenger seat. The driver seat sits high and my head is above the wind screen. I was thinking of putting the passenger seat in the drivers side but the full size seat is too wide to fit in the passages side. I really just wanted new seats but I heard they aren't made anymore. I think I was told kirkey made them and they were a custom low back Miata seat. Anyone ever out different seats in or know where I can get one?

Thanks for all the help. I know that the front diff mount is ok and it looks like it was reinforced in the past. I'll have to check. The rear mounts but I found that the bolt that hold my exhaust to the hanger fell out since it's a new exhaust. That's probably where the vibration is coming from. Pretty simple fix once I find the right bolt to put back in there. Oh well at well at least I gave the car a good look over if it's nothing else.

Hmm I'm not sure if the diff should turn on it's side like this* sorry for the bad typing I'm on my phone 3 am at work haha

When I tightened the 4 drive shaft bolts the diff seemed to rotate to the side under a lot of torque from the wrench. I was like hmmm min not sure if the diff your turn on it's side like this.

Awesome thanks for the pictures and responses. I will have to take a better look now that I know what I'm looking for. I tightened the 4 drive shaft bolts so far and only one was a tiny but loose. The car is making the vibration most now when I slightly back off the gas and decelerate.

I started hearing a rattling or thuking noise coming from the center of the car. At first it would only make the noise in a hard right hand corner then throughout the cruise it became much more frequent. It was hard to tell where exactly the noise was coming from. I made sure nothing was loose with the heims or suspension and gave the car a good shake down. everything seems solid. i took out the center console and it seemed like the noise is coming from the start of the diff where the driveshaft attaches, I could be wrong though. Nothing is touching the drive shaft that would cause any vibration or rubbing. I have a few video clips ill try to see if the will upload

I had mine made 1-7/8 primary with a band clamp connected to 3" stainless. The muffler is a 3" i/0 glasspack I think. It's pretty loud but sounds amazing. The fuel cut issue I had was a clogged fuel fitting. Runs better than ever now. I'm glad to get rid if the fuel cell foam.

I have puma fastcats in carbon fiber look. I love them. Puma always does 40% off sales if you wait you can get them for $30 free shipping a lot of times

Roman was saying that his car is using the o2 sensor that is on the long division off the harness. Mine is now using the one on the short division that only comes about 2" off the harness. The sensors can't be changed from plug to plug because when you take them apart one plug is male and one is female which you can't tell until apart. I just wanted to make sure I have the right sensor in before I look further. Even though when either sensor was used the car was having fuel cut. I changed the low pressure fuel filter which I thoigh may have been the issue since it had a moderate amount of foam in it. I think my system has two filters, low and high pressure and two pumps. That it what I was told anyway. I didn't look too far into it. The low pressure filter is first after the tank and I would think it would catch everything.

I switched the 02 sensors and the car was having the same fuel cut problem. It ran the same with either 02 sensor. The serial numbers are: the Spare: 508-H1 Sensor being Used 613-H1. I'm not sure which sensor should really be used. That would be helpful too. The 508 sensor the wires were all spliced back together and some splices were even broken so I put it back together the best I could before driving with it.

I had new exhaust made for my car a few days ago and ever since it has been sputtering and bucking after about 5000 PRM on a straight away with a full tank of gas. The original exhaust set up had a cat and two 02 sensors. I was told without a cat only the front 02 sensor was needed. The exhaust now has a single 02 sensor just after the collector with no cat. I told the guy who made it to leave the front 02 sensor but should it be the rear 02 sensor that is really needed? Does the distance of the o2 sensor from the collector matter? It is currently just a few inches past the merge inside the engine bay. It is possible it could be a fuel system problem but i was only having fuel cut problems with a low tank and only during cornering since i have no fuel cell foam. does anyone know if the two 02 sensors are the same and interchangeable? The 02 sensor that wasn't being used was left coiled up in the engine bay. After i noticed fuel cut issues i unplugged it and had the same problem. Would it make sense trying to plug the o2 sensor being used into the other plug from the 02 sensor that is no longer used? Its not really an area i'm too good with and didn't want to keep leaning it out, ruining the motor.

Thanks Louren I'll give it a try. I was pretty sure that's what I had to do but I just wanted to make sure. I figured it only held 3qt of oil or so. I tend to break a lot of things working in my cars so I always like to do my research first.

I messed around last summer with some carbon fiber to make a dash and I ended up with my whole car carbon. I thought some people may be interested in how to do it as a hobby. The fenders weigh 4oz each and the hood is 5lbs! The good is very flexable and is easily breakable it has held up for a few months though so far. I made a carbon pedal box cover too that helps distract people from my wiring disaster the hood can use some more sanding but doesn't look bad for home made. http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/image-3.jpg http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/image-4.jpg

Thanks for the feedback. I forgot I have oil temp because it is in the same gauge as water temp and a switch changes between them. I always keep it on water temp. It must be the drain plug it just had me confused since it's not in an original location and the pan is all welded up. I thought id check with you guys before I mess something up.

Here is a pic of my oil pan: http://i717.photobucket.com/albums/ww172/showciv06/image-2.jpg Notice the bolt like plug on the drivers side rear with wire attached. I think it may be the plug but Evilromeo showed me a pic of his oil pan and the drain plug is obvious and is on the front passenger side. Both of us have f20 I'm not sure if the changed pans between years