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About JeffersonRaley

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    Austin, TX
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  1. I really need to set up a time lapse camera in my garage. I always forget to take pictures or document my builds well.
  2. Yeah, I'm not sure why it is such a porker either. But the Seven is my fast car. I'm building this one for reliability and lack of drama.
  3. Yes, will keep stock. The NB engine isn't a great one to modify unless you turbo it, and that would be tough to fit. Too bad it doesn't use an NC donor.
  4. Anyone else building one of these? The Seven is just too luxurious, what with having 2 seats and a (sort of) trunk. https://tipo184.com/ My kit is on order and my NB Miata donor is already stripped and ready for its new body.
  5. I think an electric Seven under 2k lbs is realistic, especially given that 100 miles of range is probably more than enough and it doesn't need to power AC, power brakes, power steering and all the rest. Plus that weight would be very low and concentrated near the center of rotation. With the insta-torque of electric, it could be even more of a slide monster than my 2.5L ICE Seven. I'll keep the ICE motor'ed Seven for sure because battery power density is way too low for a track rat. But I totally see the appeal of an electric. (And I'll be jealous of the way it would start every time.)
  6. Given how low the weight could be, I think the car could be super-entertaining even close to 2,0000 lbs. It'll never be the same experience as our ICE Sevens, but I think it has every chance to be a lot of fun. I might need to have both!
  7. Nice. I did something kind of similar, but bought the carbon dash from Tom. I only cut the one hole for my digital dash (with a Dremel).
  8. I have a 2010 Birkin with IRS and a 2.5 Duratec, so similar to what you're describing. My 2.5L replaced a 2.0L Duratec making ~180 horsepower. The new motor dyno'd at 240 hp @ 7000 rpm. Since then I put in a bigger cam, so I'm probably a little higher than that now and could go higher if I let it rev to 8k. I am very happy I went with a 2.5L. It is nuts. It can't ever put all of the power down and can spin up both rears at 50 mph. The only thing I'd do differently next time is to just buy a complete motor from Raceline or OMEX. I did have to trim the lip of my nosecone and t
  9. I love my classic cars and my track/race cars. But I also look forward to having an electric car for my daily driver once they make suitable tow vehicles. And I plan to convert my wife's 1966 Volvo p1800 to electric because it will make the car much more useable and convenient for her. I just don't understand all of the emotion around hybrids and electric cars. On top of all that, the simple fact is that it is much easier and cheaper to control emissions from a few stationary sources than it is from hundreds of millions of mobile sources. I'm not at all worried about cool cars disappea
  10. Wow - that is some serious air. Must have hurt on landing.
  11. Those are just for the M-Button. The M-Unit already expects the inputs to be momentary ground signals, so you just need pushbuttons. Or if you want the buttons on a removeable wheel then you can put something like the Cartek Wireless Steering Wheel in the middle. That also let me set my wiper controls to latch. That way I just push the steering wheel button and my wipers stay on. The button sends a signal to the Cartek receiver when then keeps that circuit closed (on) until I push the button again. Now if only I could figure out what to do with my last button. I have one unused butt
  12. That is the "ignition" output of the M-Unit. It is powered any time the ignition is on. So I just have that trip a relay that powers the fuse box for everything not directly controlled by the M-Unit (e.g. wipers, steering wheel controls, reverse light, ECU)
  13. I know you asked Steve, but I'll answer too. I just stripped and soldered the wires. Twisting the bare wires isn't as good because the receivers don't hold the bare wire as well, and they can fray and short out.
  14. Got it - It sounds like you're doing something very similar to what I did. I run 1 of the M.Unit aux outputs to a relay. That relay powers a fuse block for everything the M.Unit doesn't have circuits for (e.g. windshield wipers gauges, etc).
  15. Yes, the 2x15 is plenty for my starter, no relay needed in my case. I did use the 1-wire brake/tail light setup. That seemed like the simplest solution that minimized the number of wires to run. It did make my CHMSL (3rd brake light) a little tricky since I don't want that to come on with the headlights. To fix that I ran the ground for the CHMSL into the brake pressure switch. So the brake pressure switch sends a ground signal to the M.Unit to tell it the brakes are being used. The M.Unit sends power to the brake/tail lights to turn them on. The CHMSL gets that + signal, and also g
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