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JeffersonRaley

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  • Location
    Austin, TX
  • Se7en
    Birkin

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  1. I have the same lights on my Birkin and really like them. Much brighter and the integrated turn signals are slick.
  2. Excellent article - thanks for sharing. I thought his commentary on power was probably right on. But for me the thing is that there are loads of cars that are a lot of fun on a beautiful day. A Seven with 5 lbs/bhp (or better) is a unique experience. After 20+ years of racing and driving instruction I've never driven anything like it for sheer adrenalized terror and joy.
  3. Last weekend I put LED bulbs in my existing lights. Huge difference in visibility and, I hope, safety.
  4. I really need to set up a time lapse camera in my garage. I always forget to take pictures or document my builds well.
  5. Yeah, I'm not sure why it is such a porker either. But the Seven is my fast car. I'm building this one for reliability and lack of drama.
  6. Yes, will keep stock. The NB engine isn't a great one to modify unless you turbo it, and that would be tough to fit. Too bad it doesn't use an NC donor.
  7. Anyone else building one of these? The Seven is just too luxurious, what with having 2 seats and a (sort of) trunk. https://tipo184.com/ My kit is on order and my NB Miata donor is already stripped and ready for its new body.
  8. I think an electric Seven under 2k lbs is realistic, especially given that 100 miles of range is probably more than enough and it doesn't need to power AC, power brakes, power steering and all the rest. Plus that weight would be very low and concentrated near the center of rotation. With the insta-torque of electric, it could be even more of a slide monster than my 2.5L ICE Seven. I'll keep the ICE motor'ed Seven for sure because battery power density is way too low for a track rat. But I totally see the appeal of an electric. (And I'll be jealous of the way it would start every time.)
  9. Given how low the weight could be, I think the car could be super-entertaining even close to 2,0000 lbs. It'll never be the same experience as our ICE Sevens, but I think it has every chance to be a lot of fun. I might need to have both!
  10. Nice. I did something kind of similar, but bought the carbon dash from Tom. I only cut the one hole for my digital dash (with a Dremel).
  11. I have a 2010 Birkin with IRS and a 2.5 Duratec, so similar to what you're describing. My 2.5L replaced a 2.0L Duratec making ~180 horsepower. The new motor dyno'd at 240 hp @ 7000 rpm. Since then I put in a bigger cam, so I'm probably a little higher than that now and could go higher if I let it rev to 8k. I am very happy I went with a 2.5L. It is nuts. It can't ever put all of the power down and can spin up both rears at 50 mph. The only thing I'd do differently next time is to just buy a complete motor from Raceline or OMEX. I did have to trim the lip of my nosecone and the oil filler cap to get it to fit under the bonnet. I also had to go with pico injectors to get the fuel rail to fit. I also can't run the Jenvey airbox, so I'm just running the foam air filter without the backing plate. It is a very tight fit. I'm going to go take it for a drive now.
  12. I love my classic cars and my track/race cars. But I also look forward to having an electric car for my daily driver once they make suitable tow vehicles. And I plan to convert my wife's 1966 Volvo p1800 to electric because it will make the car much more useable and convenient for her. I just don't understand all of the emotion around hybrids and electric cars. On top of all that, the simple fact is that it is much easier and cheaper to control emissions from a few stationary sources than it is from hundreds of millions of mobile sources. I'm not at all worried about cool cars disappearing. Caterham (and Birkin and Westfield, etc) built their business selling obsolete Lotuses when Lotus can barely stay alive making Lotuses. I'm pretty sure Caterham is unkillable.
  13. Wow - that is some serious air. Must have hurt on landing.
  14. Those are just for the M-Button. The M-Unit already expects the inputs to be momentary ground signals, so you just need pushbuttons. Or if you want the buttons on a removeable wheel then you can put something like the Cartek Wireless Steering Wheel in the middle. That also let me set my wiper controls to latch. That way I just push the steering wheel button and my wipers stay on. The button sends a signal to the Cartek receiver when then keeps that circuit closed (on) until I push the button again. Now if only I could figure out what to do with my last button. I have one unused button on my wheel with no purpose. I already have automatic logging on the ECU and the AIM, so don't need a logging button. I have a low-rpm rev limit until the oil is hot, so don't need a "pit" button. Maybe I need to add a second horn that play "la cucaracha", but that would add weight...
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