Stevensonjr

The Champion plug that failed was part number RN9YC, anyone have a heat range and part number for a NGK or Bosch replacement? Thanks, Bill

I would look into a solar powered battery tender(slow charge) and a cut off switch. The battery would be subject to a low amp maintenance charge and there would be no drain from the car’s systems till you switch on. This assumes you have access to the top of the garage.

OK JB, if you have the time I’ll need a bit of where, what and how on a A/F-R gauge. I am completely in the dark on this, and yes, it sounds like I need one. Thanks, Bill

4th gear and 70mph shouldn’t give overly high revs because I’m running a cut down TR7 rear end with a 3.63 gear. I seem to remember about 4000 rpm or a little less. What should I look for on my plugs besides a tan color on the center insulator and very little soot? Could it be just that a plug failed and my fuel air ratio is ok? I would hate to go chasing a problem that’s not there. Thanks, Bill

Fez, I don’t understand your last paragraph. Could you rephrase it, especially the “cats “ parts. Thanks, Bill

This may get a little long but it’s unusual. The car started backfiring and missing and shaking and sounding like it was coming apart. If it had been just a plug fouling or failing to fire, it would have started to miss and shake while driving and I would have known what to look for. The backfires were shotgun loud and often, being on the left side of the car it got my attention and confused me. What the hell is going on? When I pulled #4 plug out, the center electrode was gone, as in the second photo. When I looked at it closer it suddenly appeared as in the top photo. The electrode would slide in and out when I shook the plug. I’m guessing that the plug never stopped firing, it would fire early or late depending on where the electrode was in it’s in and out cycle. I can’t think of other reasons as to why the backfiring and shaking was so violent. I was concerned that part of the electrode had fallen into the cylinder and had damaged the piston/cylinder so I ran a bore scope. All is well, nothing foreign showed up. I put 4 new plugs in and it ran as before, strong and smooth. Attached is a bore scope photo. Thanks for all the comments, Bill

I’ve already bought new plugs, not going to install them till I’m sure that nothing fell into #4 cylinder from the plug that came apart. Bore scope late this afternoon. Bill

I hope you are right, the bore scope should tell me, I don’t want to start it till I know for sure. Bill

I’ll have to change my statement about the plugs, all looked the same except #4 cylinder. I started to clean the plugs with a small media blast device I use on aircraft plugs. I picked up #4 and as I held it the center rod in the middle electrode disappeared, as in retracted into the middle electrode. I turned the plug upright and the rod slid out and hit the curved side electrode which stopped it. I shook it and the rod slid in and out. The rest of the plug was a bit dark with oil or soot. I quit looking until I run a bore scope tomorrow. I called Champion’s customer service and asked how long the center rod was supposed to be and what it was made of. Trying to find out how much if any of the rod had broken off and was sitting on top of the piston. The rep said the center rod was nickel and wouldn’t tell me how long the rod was supposed to be because it was proprietary information! I was going to break the plug down, let the rod slide out and measure it to see if any of it was left in the engine. I thanked him for his help and will wait on the bore scope. More to follow! Bill

My seven has a pre crossflow Kent Ford 1500, new rebuild, 244 cam, two DOCE carbs, 4 into one headers, mostly forged internals. I worked with the Webers and got it running quite well, it now has just over 400 miles on it. A couple of days ago on the way to my shop, on a smooth 4 lane, I ran it thru the gears, nothing extreme, shifting at 5000, holding at about 4000 in 4th and 70 mph for a minute or so. I stopped at a light and it started to miss and backfire thru the muffler. I let up and it ran ok at idle but when I tried to accelerate it started shaking, missing and popping thru the exhaust. What I need now is your best guess as to what might have happened to suddenly cause the backfiring and missing. I barely got the car home and need advice on where to start looking for the problem. Plugs and wires are ok and the the solid state distributor has not moved. The fuel pump is electric and +-3psi. Thanks, Bill Stevenson PS( bad dizzy module?)

Yes, the tube is about 3.5” long

Hi Scott, I found a factory chart on the Cortina site that gives the number and measurements for all dipstick versions of the Kent engine. Mine is on the front of the engine and has to have the 105E-6752 number and the 8.9” distance from the stop bump to the full mark. I might have one lined up, waiting on confirmation of the 8.9” measurement. Cheers, Bill

Added info, it’s a pre-crossflow engine. Thanks, Bill

My series 2 Seven has a 1500 Kent Ford engine. I’m in need of a correct Ford dipstick. Markings on the stick will be, 105E-6752. It will measure 8.9” from the stop bump to the full mark and will have a round handle topside. if anyone has an extra I would be interested in buying it. I am in Louisiana so shipping from the UK might be a problem cost wise. I fabricated a correct dimension stick but it’s not “original “. Thanks, Bill

I’m 81, I drive my WWII Jeep, 3 speed, my 65 series 2 Lotus 7, 4 speed, my Cobra replica, 5 speed and my Viper, 6 speed. The mix keeps me active mentally. Everyone ages at different rates, adapt and overcome whatever your particular physical problems are. Drive till it’s not worth the trouble. Cheers, Bill