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Andy69

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  1. The pulley is swappable I assume? Mine has a 4 groove flat and the one I’ve found that looks like it will work is a V groove. I’ve had to do that before with other cars and it was a straightforward swap, just needed an impact to get the nut off.
  2. The one that came off is a Magneti Marelli 54022458 A127-55. I’ve located a few that might work but if anyone has already done the leg work and has a source or a part number I’d sure appreciate it. 1992 Supersprint with 1400 k-series https://www.classic-spares.com/product/rac057-lucas-a127-55-amp-alternator/ https://www.ebay.com/itm/173634751119
  3. Well I don’t know now. Car seems to run fine now with the same coil. Might be an intermittent thing.
  4. Well. The new coil is blown - giving the same infinite resistance as the old one and the car won’t start. Looks like I have more sleuthing to do. One a higher note, I did get all the lights working - several bad grounds and a broken wire were the culprits.
  5. Broken wires in the left taillight were the cause. Work great now. On to the hazards/indicators
  6. Wait a sec, isn’t the one on the MC the brake failure switch? Looking up the Lucas pressure switch for the brake lights ( SPB401? ), I see it looks like a pressure switch on the brake distribution block right below the MC.
  7. Yeah ok, I saw that and I thought maybe that was what it was. Does it need to be primed or the res filled to a certain point?
  8. This car is making me feel stupid. The brakes, turn signals, and hazards don’t work. They worked before so I think maybe there is a commonality to the failure somewhere. Bad ground perhaps. But I was going to check the brake light switch and there isn’t one? At least, none I can find anywhere in the vicinity of the brake pedal. Also, there is a switch of some kind on the accelerator that is pressed once the pedal comes fully back but it doesn’t do that, just hangs there and doesn’t press the switch. 1992 Supersport K-series ? pic:
  9. Gotcha. It’s a Lucas Sport DLB105. Available in the US. Perhaps there are others that will interchange
  10. It’s definitely not starting now. It will fire but not start. Smelled gas after trying to start it today, so I started looking at the ignition. Coil tests 3.3 ohms across the +\- terminals and from the + to the output it’s infinite. Unless I tested this wrong that looks like a bad coil
  11. Now it’s happening cold. Tried starting tonight and it fired and died twice, after that nothing. Battery holds a charge but only cranks for about 20-25 seconds total before slowing down. Probably needs to be tested at least. Found a couple bad grounds which I fixed. Also have an issue with the lights . Headlights and taillights work but no brake lights, turn signals, or hazards. Cleaned the hazard switch with contact cleaner, then swapped in known good relays with no change. Got some weird open/short issue in the rear wiring which I’ll address tomorrow. going to check some of the suggestions tomorrow also.
  12. 1992 with 1400 K. Sat for 3 years and change. Siphoned the old gas out of the tank and replaced with new, changed oil, flushed radiator, etc. Starts and runs fine for a short drive down the block and back. After shutting it off and then trying to restart after 5-10 min, it will sputter and die, then not start. Starts fine after sitting overnight. I’m thinking the fuel filter needs to be replaced, but maybe the fuel pump relay too? Been way too long. Felt good driving it.
  13. right is the spacer for the damper (not used because the dampers are the correct length without it) left is the spacer for the tie rod. Did a bit of poking around, seems the fix is to use the spacer but cut a half inch to an inch off the end of the tie rod.
  14. First two are with the spacers, second two without. do they make a shorter spacer?
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