sporqster

IG/S splice: Already have that on the short list to fix, I've already had one very costly regulator failure, after all. Re power: It's not just the power its pulling at idle, it really is causing timing issues, it doesn't drive well above idle either, like it has terrible timing or something. Without the alt plugged in, it's just under 12 according to the dash gauge, and it'll sink to 10.5 on a trip to the parts store and back, so basically, as expected? It is a pretty small battery. I like to think it isn't shielding wires as it USED to run well, before the regulator "incident". So scratching my head too. Part of me wants to pull every piece of wiring out, create a new harness, and install a megasquirt, as the OEM ecms are kinda a black box to me and I can tune a MS with my phone. But I've not quite made it to that place yet.

3800 SC Stalker here. First, I didn't build my 7 mysef, so I'm learning about the idiosyncrasies as I go. And there are idiosyncrasies. When I bought this car, it ran perfect, idled nice and had smooth power right up through all the power band I had the guts to experience. But then a regulator failure blew up the ECM, ICM, and well, nothing has been quite the same since. After replacing the ECM, ICM, and of course the alternator/regulator, I found that my new alternator wasn't charging. After taking it back and testing it at the chain parts store verified there was nothing wrong with it, I dug into the harness to find that the "IG" and "S" wires were spliced together right behind the connector to the alternator with a crimp connector that had just let go of the wires. Well, actually, the observation was that the IG and S wires going to the alternator were both loose in the loom, and there was only one wire in the loom close to there with a crimp connector on it connected to nothing, which was connected to a ignition-switched 12 volts, so I'm putting 2+2 together. Replaced the crimp connector and all is well, right? Unfortunately wrong. The car runs like total crap with the alternator running plugged in. Backfires, hesitates, barely idles. And I can verify this by pulling the fuse on the wire to the IG/S circuit as shown on the attached and immediately the car runs better. (It really needs a better tune as the one that's in there is clearly not as good as the one Dennis Brunton put on the ECM that got fried, but it's much OK-er). The CEL reads P1361 & P1362, "TDC sensor 1 no signal" and "TDC sensor 1 Intermittent interruption." I replaced the TDC sensor. Probably wasn't anything wrong with it, but I like collecting the RockAuto magnets, apparently. Is the way this alternator is wired likely the cause of electrical noise that is wrecking the TDC sensor? Or some other cause? I'm not an electrically inclined person, but I know how to use a multimeter. What might be up here? Also, the code reader is throwing P0107 "Manifold Absolute Pressure Circuit Low", which is interesting, because on my set up, there is a MAF, but I don't have a MAP sensor. Yeah I know, SEEMS like it would want a MAP, but looks like this Stalker was built without one. Stalker owners - is that typical? As I said, I had to replace the ECM in this car because of an earlier electrical regulator failure, was there something special on the old ECM that ignored the lack of a MAP sensor and made it just work? Thanks for reading this far! Hoping to get this sorted out before the weather warms up!

Was about to post a question in the tech section ' 3" exhaust inserts that actually work? ' lol

Of course! These were taken just after I bought the car in the spring. Will be making more pics soon I'm sure.

After 7 years of regretting selling my Locost, I could not resist the temptation to once again terrorize the neightborhood. New-to-me hardly driven at all 3800SC Brunton Stalker. I cannot think of a better way to burn dead dinosaurs! So glad to rejoin the community, and thanks John for resurrecting my old account!

Still have this car, could use the room in the garage for the race car, and to fund more racing. Entertaining reasonable offers. It's worth more to me than $3-$4k.

bump for new ad: http://evansville.craigslist.org/cto/2641384933.html

Bump

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Asking $11k for it. Also here are some more pics and a video from my poorly lit garage. Startup video http://www.youtube.com/embed/ZiqXWCPcTmk http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/DSCF5078.jpg http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/DSCF5079.jpg http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/DSCF5081.jpg http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/DSCF5082.jpg

Built in '03 and on the road ever since, has Florida assigned VIN, and is currently registered and plated in Indiana. Toyota "Silver Top" 4AG-E powerplant, with SDS fuel and spark controls. Corolla GTS 5-speed tranny, Alfa Romeo Spider limited slip diff. Adjustable coilovers all around. Steward Warner "aviator" style gauges. Foam-filled 10-gallon fuel cell. The car has been to several autocrosses and a couple track days at Roebling Road in Savannah, GA. It is extremely fast for a street car, but the steering gets really light around 110 or so, and I don't have the guts to tell you what the real top speed is. I would suggest adding some down force before attempting to make it a real track beast. Also, though the car comes with 195 wide tires, 225 wide Hoosiers fill the fenders better and fit without rubbing anything, but I have since stolen my wider rims and put them on my race car where they have seen a bit of rubbing and probably should stay with the race car. This is a great car, and it pains me to sell/trade it, but the truth is I do not get to enjoy it much any more as the family has grown, and it is really only good for getting me around solo. I am also resigned to the truth that I am not a great driver, and likely will not win many D-Mod autocross trophies behind the wheel of a street-legal seven. My almost 3-year-old loves the car, but the safety police frown upon strapping him into the Kirkey for a jaunt around the block (despite my protest that it fits him better than his car seat). The good: Well, there's a lot of good. 1350lbs and a 4AG-E reliable Power that has started every time I pushed the button that I have owned the car. That's a lot of good. The bad: This is a semi comprehensive list of all the issues I can think of in order of concern: 1) The rear end has started making a funny noise as of late. I suspect a rear wheel bearing is in need of replacement. Brakes have started squeaking a little too, pads are about done. 2) The car tends to fall out of first gear when stopped. You have to hold it there or put it in gear before pulling away. Also, it tends to pop out of 2nd gear if hitting a bump and not under load. This is annoying for autocross. Possibly a lighter smaller shift knob will help? This is not a significant issue street driving, as little time is spent in 1st or 2nd. 3) The car can cruise down the highway or even be driven hard at a track with no real temp issues (right at 190) but in summer just putting around town the temp creeps up. I suspect poor air flow, a bigger radiatior and or fan might be in order if you're planning on regularly using it for stop-and-go summer traffic. 4) With the harness, the rear visibility through the mirrors is not great. I would suggest bigger (curved) side mirrors for street driving. This car is not a show car (though I have taken it to car shows and actually have some trophies from winning the 'popularity contest'.) The welds are solid, and time/track tested, but I wouldn't call the welding 'pretty'. I have not polished the aluminum to a perfect shine, but you could with some liberal application of elbow grease. The fiberglass rear fenders have some surface cracking if you look closely for it. The engine bay has never been cleaned more than was necessary to work under there efficiently, so don't expect to be blinded by any shiny chome when you lift the hood. I would be willing to entertain reasonable offers, or consider trade for Rolls Royce / Bentley's 1965-1980 in good driving condition of equal value. Would like to get a hobby car that the whole family can enjoy. http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/n1635197308_27789_2383.jpg http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/SEVEN-1.jpg http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss236/sporqster/SEVEN-2.jpg email me moore "at" ciholas dot com if you're interested! I'm bad about not checking back in on my posts!

I have just taken to telling people it's a 2003 Lotus Seven. -Even though it's a Locost with no Lotus parts on it at all. People just can't wrap their head around the possibility that the car was built by some guy in a garage, and has no manufacturer per se.

Think you could make some like this? I can get you CAD data if you need it - let me know if the 5 degree slope is a problem as that feature is not really a must have, but looks cool IMHO. Call or PM me with a price -Chris 812 962 9417

I'll make you a drawing - I should have it posted here in a few hours.

BTW - I got this response from Jack: Hi Chris, Nope, I'm strictly a fiberglass fender guy, and my things-to-do list is too long to add a skill with that steep a learning curve. Which reminds me, the usa7s.com discussion includes a comment from randy g stating... > > I can make any thing. Go to Blastolene.com for pics. of my work. ...and boy howdy is he right about that! PS--As you can see, I'm a lurker on usa7s.com but not by choice. My registered screen name on usa7s is JackMcCornack (as it is everywhere) and I'd like to chime in on the forum, but after the first time in, I've never been able to log back on. I've tried the "forgot password" thing a number of times but no joy. If somebody would tell me how to get logged in, I'd love to participate. Regards, Jack

thanks guys - I sent Jack an email - we'll see what happens. Jon thanks for that - I may give that a try, I would have to bum a shrinker, and hopefully figure out how to use it. Where are you located? What would I have to bribe you with to help me make some fenders that don't flake paint and rub tires?

Does anyone know where to get aluminum rear fenders, particularly slightly wider ones? Currently my 'Locost' rears are fiberglass which do not match the aluminum front fenders and rub 225's a little when I hit a bump. I would like to get some rears that have a 10.25" inside dimension for tire width. I'm in Indiana.

I did this once - homemade foundry sure caught the neighbor's attention ;-) I loosely followed the instructions here: http://www.visi.com/~darus/foundry2/

Anyone want to join me at the Fabulous First Friday cruise-in in Evansville, in? Registration is at 5PM in on the corner of 6th and main. I'll be bringing my 7, and the Mrs may bring her Porsche. Neither of our cars are very 'show-y' AT ALL. We're just going for fun.

I have a friend building a house and he wants to put on of those DIY epoxy coatings on the garage floor before the garage is finished out. Anyone have any personal experiences with the stuff and have a brand or method they would or would not recommend?

I took my spare tire off, then got to thinking... that's the only thing between the yahoo in the car behind and 10 gallons of premium fuel... maybe oughta put that spare tire and spare tire bracket back on. And make the bracket out of solid rod. Not much of a bumper, but I guess it's better than literally nothing. I don't like to think of my se7en as a dangerous car... it's more like a slightly safer motorcycle. And having said that, I did roll my 7 in a ditch once... got some friends to help me get upright and drove away with no injury and only a cracked fiberglass fender, which I fixed for $6 worth of fiberglass resin and a can of rattle can paint. That was getting off pretty daggum light for driving like an idiot on a public road, I thought.

This looked like a pretty good deal to me. He only wants $900 for it. http://evansville.craigslist.org/grd/774536135.html What do y'all think? think it could handle a sub 1400 pound car?

Just paypaled you- can I be one of us now?