Blackbird

I, too, always told the passengers in my miata to cross their arms and hold on to the opposing harness belt - right hand holds the left shoulder belt (near the camlock) and vice versa. During the one trip I've had in a locost I've done the same thing. BTW, the name of the handle is "the oh s**t! handle" Moti

Thanks guys! It really isn't a career, I look at it as more of a creative outlet. Glad you enjoyed it and I'll be sure to post links to other seven related articles I'm likely to write in the future. Moti

I've recently applied to be a writer for Examiner.com and well, I'm now a part of the team So, as the automotive insights examiner, I decided to write an article about the Locost. I made sure to add a link to USA7's at the bottom as well . Hope you enjoy it, and please leave any comments you may have on the Examiner page. Moti

Never heard of that happening either, car engines would just stall. Moti

I'm planning on paddle shifters so a hand clutch isn't going anywhere there. I do know how to left foot brake well but since the hand clutch isn't happening anyway it isn't going to help anything, I think that having a dead pedal in the extra width possible is a good solution. I also have a feeling that the hand clutch will work fine until you find yourself spinning out and then your foot will go for the non-existent clutch pedal and not your hand to the clutch handle and now your car has just stalled in the middle of the racetrack... If the option of putting a dead pedal in is just a small change in tube locations away, why would you want to learn how to drive again ? Moti

First real post in this forum . I don't know how many of you folks surf the locost USA forum so I'm posting the same post here as well. Thought I'll share an idea I had with you. After studying Jeff Underwood's website (I bet I'll score well in the test :lol: ) and driving Martin Keller's locost I came up with something that I think I will incorporate into my build. Since the R1 output is pretty far off to the right, there is really no reason that I can think of that prevents one from making the pedal box wider and get *maybe* enough room for a dead pedal. The dead pedal is very useful in performance driving, at least for me. Also, since there really isn't a car transmission in the tunnel, the whole thing can be narrowed down a good bit and be gained as space for a good competition seat that I'd be happy to install. Here's a pic borrowed from Jeff's site that I marked a line where all the tubing of the left side of the tunnel can be shifted to (thanks Jeff!). Of course all triangulation will be carried over to the new location of the tubing. I do know that because I'm using the miata diff I will need to make the rear part of the tunnel wider. Your thoughts are welcome! Moti http://www.usa7s.com/aspnetforum/upload/697038485_TransTunnelMod.jpg

Alright folks, not your usual build - For sale is a copy of the book chassis in 5/8 scale (62.5% scale for those who prefer this sort of math). The chassis was built mainly for me to test some theories I had as well as to practice my welding skills and practice some more before I'm starting the full scale build. The frame was built using scale correct 5/8" square tubes, thickness was retained at 16 ga. Rear shock towers and base plates for rollbar are made of 1/8" thickness for added strength, rollbar iteslf is made of 1.25" round tube al 1/8" thickness as well (definately an overkill). The welding quality is good for the most, a few of the welds aren't too pretty and you would probably want to grind them down and re-do them. The chassis is straight, maybe not 100% by aerospace standards but definately straight for what it's supposed to be ! It is almost fully welded. You can make this into an awesome toy for a kid, I measured my 9 y.o. skinny and a bit tall for his age nephew and this chassis will be good enough to fit two of him with a narrow transmission tunnel. The transmission tunnel structure itself was left out so it can be built around which ever motor you're going with. You can easily adapt a small ATV / lawnmower / go kart / bike motor and run a chain to the back to make the transmission tunnel as narrow as possible. Another option is to make it a single seater adult go kart and just stick a bike motor in the back over the axle. Overall length is about 6'2", width is around 27" and height at the top of the rollbar is about 29". It weighs ~41 lbs on my bathroom scale. Images can be seen here - http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1962 Please email me if you have any questions at SR71Miata at gmail d0t c0m . Thanx!