tnttim
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Posts posted by tnttim
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*******No Affiliation******
Just found this on Craigslist.
Caterham, Lotus 7.... this is a CS3 Caterham titled as a 1990 assembled (previous owner never titled it). Yellow and natural aluminum 1641cc Ford Kent engine 10:1 compression 140+hp, new battery, live axle(limited slip), 4spd, 5 Panasport 13x7 and 4 original Goodyear aluminum rims (6 spoke). full weather equipment, currently has the regular windscreen on,wind deflectors, the carbon fiber one is now off of the car. 4pt harnesses w/anti sub straps. $19,900 obo I've owned it for the last 20yrs, no surprises
also comes with
Caterham "7" grill NIB
new brakes: front disc/pads rear drum/shoes (doesn't need them, bought them because they were in stock)
carbon fiber aeroscreen also has carbon fiber rear view mirror and both side view carbon fiber mirrors
has a new alloy valve cover that has "SUPER SEVEN" (not installed)
front suspension is the wide set up the normal A arms are included
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I have an extra 442 frame that I bought for a starter project and now need the room. I bought this a while back off a guy who was going to put in an RX-7 set-up. The frame is 1" square tubing and is thicker than normal for the extra horse power. It is either 12ga or .095. No suspension point are welded in and the rear section behind the back support is not welded in for easier transport.
Here are some photos I wanted to show a few of the bad and the good welds that are on the frame. I have gone around and fixed most of the welds that the previous owner had made, but there are only a few left that need to be ground out and rewelded. I also have some extra tube sections so you can finish up some of the additional tubes. There should only be a few sections you will need to purchase.
If you are local i would also be able to lend any advice and a hand when i can.
If anyone is interested in this I really need to get it out of my way so I can get my new garage in order so I can continue on my other car.
Email me either here or at tnttim@hotmail.com and I will send you my info.
Tim
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I went with the Power Band it really improved my run times dramatically.
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New Lower Price ***** $600 obo *********
Really need to get this thing out of my way.
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Here are some Photos.
You will see a few of the good VS. bad welds. I went around and fixed most of them, but again there are some you will have to redo. Also I do have a few additional tubes left to finish up some of the chassis.
The one picture with the transmission is when I first got the frame from the guy I bought it off of.
The transmission and rear diff are not included in the sale.
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I have an extra 442 frame that I bought for a starter project and now need the room. I bought this a while back off a guy who was going to put in an RX-7 set-up. The frame is 1" square tubing and is thicker than normal for the extra horse power. It is either 12ga or .095. No suspension point are welded in and the rear section behind the back support is not welded in for easier transport.
Will have some pictures posted up soon.
Email me either here or at tnttim@hotmail.com and I will send you my info.
Tim
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Fastest Caterham,,, maybe... But I think it a far stretch to say it would be the fastest Lotus style car. Then again you get into that whole argument of what is fastest. "Fastest around the cones?" "Fastest in the Laps" "Fastest 1/4 mile" "Fastest,,, as in just below take off speeds".
tnttim
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NOT mine.... Just thought some one could use it.
Book chassis and a few extra bits.
Item #140357267984
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She was cheating...... Didn't you see the little helper she had in the top right of the windshield??
If that wasp wasn't flapping its wings against the windshield, effectively pushing the car to help her go faster, you would have had her.
I would have to call that cheating. So it doesn't count.
Tim
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According to the math I have done I will redline at 178MPH. Now if you consider that I can bury the speedo in the donor car and it weighs 3200 lbs at about the 150 mph mark. If I can keep the wheels on the ground I should be able to do it.
Tim
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How about one or more of the following....
Once it has doors working or not.
The body is taller that 28"-34".
It is based on a Ford T or A-frame.
It has white wall tires.
The steering wheel is at a greater angle to the floor than the gear shift.
Running boards. (Not to be confused with gull wing fenders.)
You can see the chrome rear end cover from the car behind it.
It has MOONIES for hub caps. (If you don't know what those are ask your grandpa.)
Zoomie headers. (see note above.)
You have to slow way down to make almost any turn.
The antenna has a Coon's tail hanging on it.
To drive it you have to be issued the standard can of hair jell, a white t-shirt, and leather coat.
And the best way.... One can be found at home at the race course, or on the concourse. The other can be found at a local car show and 50's drive in.
tnttim
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It is actually normal to have a small amount of condensation in the engine. Especially if you live in a cooler more humid climate.
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Modified Magazine Tuner Shootout
http://www.nasaaz.com/events/tuner-shootout/
I will be in the Tempe area and am looking for anyone who is going to the autocross event for this. Would like to hang out with the 7's crowd.
Tim
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12v measured at the battery is marginal. A freshly charged battery should be showing a minimum of 12.7 volts.
A second observation i would make is that your battery may be showing 12v but it has actually failed(broken plate), or too discharged to recover. The 12v it shows is merely a surface charge. When a load is placed on the battery and you measure the voltage, it will drop below 10v if it has failed.
load test the battery first.
m
Exactly, One wasy would be to just turn on the headlight and drop a meter across the battery. If it dies then you have a faulty or dead battery. Also be careful, If a battery get low enough it can actually develope negative voltage. If your not carefull and hook up the bat that way you can fry the ECU.
The other thing to do is clean the battery terminals. It may look like they are hooked up and clean but they can be just a slight corrosion on the terminal preventing contact.
If you own a good quality battery charger then you can hook up the battery in the car and turn on the accessories. I would not recommend trying to start it yet though.
Start at the battery and test the voltage from the pos+ bat terminal to the frame (-). If no voltage check the ground strap at the frame and clean the connection.
Then just move down the positive side of the wiring to the frame with your volt meter.
(+)Batt---------(MainSwitch)------(Fuses)----ECT....
Hope this helps.
Tim
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and even wierder......
Great build method if you cannot weld hey.
That wooden 'Ariel' was a feature in Popular Science if I remember correcly. I remember seeing an old magazine where they give you the plans to build on from wood.
Would that be concittered going green? Geez, just think if you could make one electric.
tnttim
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Excellent, glad to see it went to a member.
Tim
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I wonder how "legal" that is for SCCA? With that whole debate on splitters and front ends you would think they would deem this illegal. Although I did hear there were some rule changes...
P.s. Dont post here, not trying to hijack thread.
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Not mine just an FYI
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Caterham Lotus 7 TONNEAU SV series 5 wide body. This is listed less than half it's retail value ($277.20). It is without snaps. Please see other items for sale. Shipping will be adjusted for volume purchases
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I did recieve mine also a bit back. I had though I had mentioned it, I am sorry if I did not.
I got 78 and 79 and sure was disappointed that I didnt get 77, that would have just made me happy.
Tim
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From what I have been told it has alot to do with the Emission and crash standards we have here. From what I heard, (dont quote me on this), if you have the vehicle disassembled and shipped here then reassemble it as a kit you can have it in much easier. Then you just follow your local state laws for that.
tnttim
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I was wondering if all you real technical bored people would have a look at the Wishbone.exe settings I was thinking of using for the rear of my IRS setup.
Now keep in mind that the Lower A arm points both inner and outer are set, and I am not going to move them now.
The upper A arm is open for moving any of the inner points pretty much anywhere.
Also the inner point on the control arm is movable for toe in adjustment.
I also have to keep all the measurements on the spindle and the widths the same due to the cv joints.
And I don't mind the 1.2* of camber, since in heavy corners I will rub the outside of the tire off anyway. Should even out. :yesnod:
Also looking for any volunteers who wish to come and weld the suspension together,, hehe. :smash:
http://www.usa7s.net/aspnetforum/upload/1744808544_wishbone.JPG
Constructive suggestions appreciated.
tnttim
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I think I am just going to start off with a good pair of snow tires.
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Haven't seen a post lately so decided to put up a few....
Not mine
Quote from seller:
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Item number: 350133068330
It reads Cibie H-4 IODE, HCR, E2 ,20, 337 , 24
They are H4 with High and low beam 60/55 watt 12 Volt
The glass is 5 3/4 Inch diameter (150mm )
The headlight assembly is aprox 7 inches wide(180mm) x 4 1/2 inches deep(115mm) and stands 7 3/4 inchs high (195mm) on its base.
The rim has a nice chrome finish and the base mounting hardware and bracket are a gold/zinc finish.
The lamp housing has a Gray Enamel finish and there are two lens mounting tabs on the housing so the lamp assembly can be flipped 180 degrees, The mounting base is on the bottom but can be fliped for on top use and has a 30 degree swivel range using a 7/16 inch (10 mm ) mounting stud
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Haven't seen a post lately so decided to put up a few....
Not mine
Quote from seller:
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Item number: 310103996626
THIS AUCTION IS FOR ONE PAIR OR ORIGINAL CIRCA 1960S LOTUS 7 TAIL LIGHTS...MANUFACTURED BY WINGARD ENGLAND. CHROME IS LIGHTLY PITTED . LENSES ARE FADED. 2 BULBS ARE INCLUDEW W/ WIRING, AND 3 OF 4 MOUNTING SCRES...RUBBER PADS ARE NOT INCLUDED
Ultralite on Craigslist
in Cars For Sale
Posted
Who the hell autocrosses with no helmets on?