homebrew

I built the McSorely +442 version, I'm 6'6" and 240lbs, and have no trouble with legroom or width. The biggest problem I found is that the footwell gets narrower as it goes towards the front of the car. This makes it very difficult to operate the clutch and then where to rest your left foot after using the clutch. I knew the narrow footwell would be a problem so I modified the frame for more footwell space. I widened the footwell and also pushed it into the engine compartment a few inches. This modification created a problem later on with the hood that I didn't have the foresight to see when I was building the frame. If you are thinking of building your own car definately make the trans tunnel only wide enough for the trans and driveline. The other thing you can do is attach the sheetmetal panel nearest the throttle pedal on the inside of the tunnel, that way you pick up an extra inch to the outside of your right foot. Good luck. Jim

Yea, Jim this is definetly a multi-year thing. I figured 3 years but finished in 2, er-had it licensed and on the road (don't think you ever really finish, already planning mods for this winter). Like Keith stated in the GRM article keeping motivated and doing something everyday keeps the build on track. I really broke my project down into smaller tasks and tried to finish a task before moving to the next. If I got stuck I'd do something else to keep the whole thing moving. I don't know how many times you see a guy lose interest in the build when he has a problem. Next thing its for sale. As you know there is so much that goes into building a car. Good luck, Jim

Rpb, I like to refer to the "socks" as diapers. They are hiding the other two master cylinders (one for the rear brakes the other for the clutch). I have a brake balance bar setup. I put the "diapers" on when I couldn't find where brake fluid was leaking from after checking fittings, lines and the back of the cylinders. Came to the conclusion it was coming from either the vent hole in the cap or the cap seal. When I went to the track I noticed a fair amount of race cars seem to have some sort of "diaper" wrapped around their master cylinders. Dave, yes they are ES-100s. I really have no basis for comparison with any other tire since these are the only tires I have had on the car. They seem to work well for the street. I have yet to autox or do a track day- next year. Jim

Rob , thanks for the compliment. I found I needed a wind deflector at the top of the winshield because air was spilling over the top and directly into my eyes and face. Very annoying at freeway speeds, so annoying that at times I'd try to scrunch my 6'6"frame down to get out of the wind. :ack: When I was making the template for the windshield I was contemplating making it 2" taller but I didn't like how it looked. Yes, locost7018, the top deflector is removable. Thanks again, Jim Larfield

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Jim, I'd recommend all. There is something to be learned from all of the sources you listed. If you can some how come up with Champion's book then definetly pick it up. Check used book stores or Amazon online. I haven't seen Tanner's book but I followed his build on his website. If you're going the Miata route then get it, if not I'd still seriously consider buying it because there is always usefull info about making a jig to make a part or how that builder mounted the fuel cell or ?? I think you get the picture. I have Brizendine's CD-Rom and it's geared more for the guy who is going to assemble a kit rather than build from scratch. Still lots of good info and it certainly gave me some ideas on how to do a few things. Both the locostusa forum and also locost north america on yahoo. People there are very helpful and willing to share knowledge. Good luck, Jim

Lawrence, you'll probably fit but it may be tight. I'm 6'6" and 240lbs. I met a guy at my local track who was racing a Westfield. Told him I was building a Locost and he invited to sit in his car since I had never sat in one. His car had an aluminum racing seat positioned all the way back. Never did get my butt all the way down, knees were jammed between the dash and the steering wheel and my feet were tangled in the pedals. They kept encouraging to sit all the way down. Told them if I did that they'd have to call for rescue to cut me out. Later on met a fellow Locoster in my area who had built a book sized frame, pretty much the same result. I'm under the impression that the Stalker may use a slightly larger frame. If you're into building from scratch then you can build it exactly how you want. I built my car using the McSorely +442 design. I have more than enough leg room and hip room. Hope this helps, Jim

Hey CobraJim, I'm a newbie here too. I just finished my Locost in March and thought I'd add my 2c/worth. A couple of other places for fiberglass are Curtiss Unlimited in northern CA (707.443.8523). They make fenders and nosecones for original 7s including front cycle and clamshell style. They seem to work the graveyard shift. I could never get a hold of them before 3:00p and if you leave a message it seems they return your call after that time. Very nice people, very down to earth. They delivered my rear fenders to me here in Portland, OR since they were coming up for a big antique car swap meet. They do buisness the old fashioned way, order what you want, they ship when ready, you receive, if you like what they sent, send a check, if not ship the stuff back - WOW! Only downside is they don't have a website. Another is Kinetic Vehicles (www.kineticvehicles.com). He makes a couple of different nosecones and supplies all kinds of parts for Locosts. Jack is a funny guy, a bit quirky but good people. Hope this helps and good luck if you jump into this project. :crazy: Jim Larfield