MXM

I'm not sure if this is exactly what you mean by welded bearings, but from what I've seen, it was usually a tack weld to locate the inner race against the shaft. See attached image. This "fixes" the axial play that eventually develops. A proper fix would be to shim the hub to remove the play (or to get the Rakeway kit). So the bearing is not welded to the case, and you can still pull the whole assembly out with the bearings. EDIT: Oh, I didn't realize the topic was so old Found it in search and decided to reply.. Oh well, hope it helps.

Fantastic effort! I'm in a process of rebuilding my own car right now, and although the end goal is different (mostly road focused, and generally low-tech), I will probably change my approach to a few things after reading this thread. How do you like the Go-Race QR so far? I'm have a lifeline, and I'm not a fan of how loose it gets over time. Go-Race also has option of passing electrical connections through QR, have you considered that instead of the Blinkstop? I'm also particularly inspired by the use of motogadget as a PDM, but I haven't yet convinced myself that this is what I want for my build. Another is the dry sump tank. I've seen them done in front of the footwell, but usually on the passenger side, and with the footwell shortened! I did not imagine it would be possible on the driver's side, and with exhaust headers on the same side! What is the volume you managed to achieve?