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  • Se7en
    1967 Lotus S3

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  1. If they are cut on a machine to the right spec, then there is no need to lap valves - new car engines aren’t lapped either…
  2. Over 10 deg from horizontal to avoid condensation dropping on tip, it is also fine to mount it fully vertical on a 7, as there are no hot air pockets since it is in free air. If you can select the heat up sequence I recommend a conservative profile (slow heat up), so the pipe clears of moisture before heating starts.
  3. Datasheet for 0261230340: https://www.bosch-motorsport.com/content/downloads/Raceparts/Resources/pdf/Data Sheet_70496907_Pressure_Sensor_Combined_PST-F_1.pdf I designed and made a 90 degree Banjo. The sensor is M10x1 and the Millington oil port is M12x1.75: Bosch on top, Variohm/clone that failed in the middle and old style Bosch below: It took me a while to figure out how the new Bosch connector works. The installation from below the car:
  4. At the moment I do believe it is just a sensor issue. The oil levels in the dry sump were normal, so suddenly sucking air doesn't seem likely, also if it was something engine internal related, then it would not repair itself. I will also measure the wires, when I change the loom connector for the new Bosch sensor.
  5. I was out for a drive last night and the engine suddenly shut down with a low oil pressure warning. After a check I tried a re-start, nice idle, no noises but also no oil pressure. So I ordered a ”taxi” back home: The engine log shows a clutched shift from 3rd to 4th gear, and right after the oil pressure starts to go down and the oil pressure protection function then kills the engine. Back at the garage I checked the oil pressure with a cordless drill and everything was back to normal... My sensor is a Variohm type (but not an original) and apparently these knock-offs are no good, when mounted directly to the block. No Variohms in stock anywhere near, so I guess I’ll switch to a modern Bosch sensor (0261230340). I’m not very excited of a remote connection to the block, let’s see how I’m going to do it now.
  6. Working on the shift settings for the paddle - especially the downshift has been quite interesting to configure. We start to be ready for the first track day. downshift test.mp4
  7. Well, after a few hours of staring, I decided to re-use the alternative pivot points meant for the throttle pedal to mount the stop. My first idea was to use the floor, but I just could reach there anymore…
  8. Hah, I tried that and no luck - FIA pads are much too hard! Unfortunately there is still stuff to do, the main item for this summer is a missing throttle pedal stop. So far I have been using a stop at the TB end, but I think I now know the movement range and can figure out a final arrangement so I don't rip the cable off in the heat of a battle...
  9. Rollcage pads - again one if those jobs, that I kept pushing into the future, as I couldn’t find any decent way to attach them. I went for cable ties, but tried my best to at least recess the heads. With a custom fabric cover they will look fine.
  10. I am just referring to how gears go in in general - the stick movement is converted to barrel rotation and it makes a loud clunk when gears are changed, even when the engine turned off. So this is not yet about the tuning or manual vs paddle.
  11. I now have the first part of the shakedown behind me - first oil change (50 km) on the Sadev is done and around 200 km driven in total. I have shifted both manually and with the paddles, however only with the clutch at this stage. The paddles are amazing and stop and go traffic is actually super relaxing, as shifting is now totally effortless. Manual gear shifts require quite a bit more force than my Tracsport type9, the sound levels are relatively similar when moving, but the box makes a very loud clunck/bang when a gear goes in. Part throttle etc feel all the same, so for me this box is perfectly usable for my ”everyday” driving. We have not noticed/heard the compressor running during driving, which is great. The only issue so far is my throttle cable gradually slackening, thanks to the pneumatic blipping on downshifts. I need to fix that. Next we will do the first shift tests under power. MME has full logging features built-in, so we should have good visibility of what is going on.
  12. I have also shelled money on a few parts from Westermann - 1) instrument panel, required significant trimming to fit, it is ok, but the surface finish is not perfect 2) hard half doors, required extreme effort to fit poorly and no instructions how to attach (and my shoulders are too wide anyway, I can’t use them), 3) carbon front indicator brackets, which had the lamp holes drilled totally off on both (got my money back on them and made my own, just binned them the other day). All seems very handmade, which is fine, but if you sell them, then at least make them until you get it right.
  13. A nice start into the day today, as I managed to figure out how to machine a Caterham logo from a vector file to the spark plug cover for a fellow 7 owner. I imagine this will be a usefull capability later on.
  14. I mounted the boot cover, which has been waiting for the right inspiration a year now. Also warmed up the engine, no issues, apart from a wash and the weather the car is now all set for the upcoming season. IMG_5705.MOV
  15. There are actually a few videos on using a Cricut for gaskets, it looks like a great little tool!
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