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Rosteri

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About Rosteri

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Personal Information

  • Location
    Europe
  • Se7en
    1967 Lotus S3
  1. Hi Mike, the block is the aluminium version of the Opel/Vauxhall 2L 16v, which has an engine code C20XE -> hence the name Millington XE. Millington produces also new heads for this block and builds complete XE engines, however they are usually with a longer stroke and max out the cylinder bore to 88 mm for this engine. The original KS or Coscast C20XE heads fit perfectly as well. According to Millington I'm the first one to build a 2.0L with their block, which I selected mainly so I could use the Caterham HPC as my reference vehicle in our local re-registration process. The main
  2. The tubes are similar on both sides, I left the original half moon cutout in place - after all who knows, perhaps someone wants the car in RHD format in another 54 years from now...
  3. It started at its fourth try, then we ran it for 20 minutes at 2000 rpm to bed in the camshafts. After this it was off to the dyno, which didn't go too well - the throttle body wasn't balanced and then the engine started giving trigger errors... in the end we didn't do a single pull, it was a very expensive day. Trouble shooting continued back home and the trigger error was a lack of fuel - I had accidentally switched off the transfer pump, so my small swirl tank ran low and the trigger error was a miss-fire... The throttle balance turned out to be a much bigger problem.
  4. The intake at full throttle has a direct view into the cylinders! My injectors were EV14-580, with a measured output of 590 cc at 3 bar. This should be enough also for alcohol. Coil on plug is troublesome, so we made a quick adapter for the timing light. And it is ready for first start...
  5. After waiting for more than half a year my roller body throttles arrived. I tried to fit hoses for the oil breather, but the routing didn't work. A couple of joyful hours with the saw and welder, as I don't have (yet) a pipe bender. I also got a sausage filter from ITG (ITG if you read this, please send me one with a logo that is not upside down!). I destroyed a nice chuck when making the backplate.. argh. Small jobs to complete were done now, like the brake light switch, heatshielding, TPS, throttle cable, alternator bracket... The throttle body was of course not aligned with my
  6. Next went in the water and oil lines. The belts took a few tries to find the right lengths (not easy to find in the first place). The drysump oil pump belt really has no adjustment, it just takes time to find the right distance (shims or spacers made to fit) and the tension is right, when you can take it off and back with your bare hands. I designed in my mind all kind of tension mechanisms, but there really is no need. At this stage I took a few months break, then mid June 2021 continued with the headers. Thru bonnet was the only option from space perspective. My exhaust numbers:
  7. An4 for the clutch line and the bleed nipple to an easily reachable position. And it finally fits.. The engine/transmission goes in without drama, the engine mounts I attached when it is in place. The alloy case is thicker than the cast iron one, didn't take this into account. But there is clearance - some... and my new mount locates the bolts correctly, nice! And then, the clutch lines leak inside the bellhousing... Ok, one more lesson. Apparently the copper washers are these days too hard, so from now on I soften them always before using them. Glowing red (happens fast) and drop
  8. Some soda blasting made the tailcasting of the geabox like new again. I shortened the new input shaft and started with the assembly. No instructions, only this one gentleman in Youtube, who shows the disassembly and assembly of a type 9 - thank you!! 5,5 kg lighter, yey! A friend made me an adapter for the clutch, as he had nothing else to do for the weekend - thanks!
  9. In parallel I started preparing for the headers, the exhaus flange needed some work. The port is oval and tubes are round, so this required some head scratching. I went for a 4-2-1 setup. I went with black steel for the flanges, as they warp less and used a special tig filler that works with both stainless and black. I connected the headers and the flanges with an inside weld, againg to prevent warping and creating a nice smooth intake.
  10. Thanks Steve and Mike! Next was the mating the geabox - and it didn't fit. Type9 has two input shaft lengths and the C20XE uses the longer one cut down a little. Mine was the short one. And the hydraulic clutch didn't even reach the pressure plate of the clutch... this was a bad day. Next weekend I picked up a Type9 core for small money from a Sierra P100 diesel, it was from the early 90s and had the newest castings. The only issue was that the thread for the gearbox mount was destroyed. I also picked up some 304 stainless for the headers. I also ordered a full set of g
  11. We also lasered a scale for the ignition timing mark to the alternator pulley. And the engine build was ready!
  12. C20XE engines have several iterations of the timing belt - the early ones used a short belt (141 teeth) with a round tooth profile and the belt was tensioned by rotating the water pump, while the newer ones had a longer belt and tensioning pulleus. These tensioning elements connect to the metal timing belt cover, which I obviously no longer have in place. Water pumps have not just different tooth lengths, but they have also 21 or 25 teeth and different width belts. Finding the right combination was really difficult, so here are my numbers. Cambelt: Bosch 1987949091 Original f
  13. The I finalized the bellhousing bracket and behold, this was the first thing that I have so far hit with the car from underneath - it was worth the trouble! Some laser etching bling as well to bright up the day. A Cometic metal 0.051" gasket was used for the head, the piston edge protrusion was 0.25 mm and my squish clearance was 1.04 mm, while SBD recommends 0.85 mm. They have considered that the block is planed as well, but with my sparkling new block there was no need. This lowers the compression ratio a little, which ended up by measuring the head volume and using the given piston volumes,
  14. I had ordered a swirl oil / air separator cap for my drysump tank from the UK, but they apparently forgot me, so I made one. I couldn't find any details how these actually look inside, so this is just my best guess and of course I again forgot to take picture of the internals... I digged into my scratch bin and off we went. I didn't remember I had used a thicker top plate on the tank to facilitate welding, so I was carefull not to burn thru the thin sheet (1.5 mm) I thought the tank was, and ended up with a slightly cold weld. I've unfortunately lately found one pinhole in that weld. So far af
  15. The pulleys for the drysump belt lined up perfectly! Next was to figure out how to mount the crank trigger. I used a VR sensor from Magneti Marelli 352316170849, I chose a bottom location as there were belts all around. I also made a stand for the cylinder head out of scratch aluminium (from my first version of the Tillett seat rails, yes, I make everything look here much easier than it was in reality... ). When I trial fit the bellhousing it hangs below the sump. This will catch everything under the car, so I'll need to figure out some protection for it. I also make a plug for th
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