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Rosteri

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  • Location
    Europe
  • Se7en
    1967 Lotus S3
  1. Ok, the propshaft tunnel is now (70 mm -> 82 mm) wider at the rear. I also had to remove the recess for the seatbelt on one side to have enough room to slide the propshaft in. I actually don’t need that recess with the Tillett seats, so I think I’ll make a flat replacement to avoid the hassle later.
  2. New drive- and propshafts arrived last week and today I dropped the diff to put them in. I knew the Sadev spec propshaft was larger, but didn’t expect this much… No way it will fit into the tunnel, so let’s make a spreader tool next.
  3. Hi, if IG and S are spliced together between the alternator and the ign switch, then turning off the engine (ignition…) might cause troubles within the regulator, as it doesn’t see the battery voltage anymore while the alternator still runs. I’d fix that. I’d also try a second alternator on the engine to rule out the alternator as a problem source, if somehow possible. Second thing that comes to mind is, that alternators do take quite a bit of power when charging (plugged), so if the problems are only at idle, then the engine might just be out of tune/ too low idle rev. Stuttering/running bad at low revs can easily create the TDC code, so it isn’t necessary the reason for the running problems, just a sign. What is the battery voltage when engine is running without/with alt plugged? Then if possible check the shielding of the trigger wires, or just make sure that none of the alternator wires are close to other wires. But somehow I doubt this is the cause.
  4. Thanks Ferrino! You have some good taste in car electronics =) Yes, they are just 3 alternative locations for the pedal pivot and my clutch/brake has the same adjustments. That bracket and the pedal also has now additional provisions for a position sensor, in case I’d opt for a drive by wire throttle setup -> unlikely. For the etching I’m now using a simple co2 laser. I’ve also had good success with Bungard Alucorex, which uses the pcb photoresist process with a simple uv light source and a mask.
  5. Naa, just go for it. Powder coating is the worst possible corrosion protection for a frame, so that new handbrake mount will be the best spot on the frame when you are done! I don’t know how it is supposed to be, but looking at it I’d just cut it off and leave short tabs on both sides, to which I’d bolt a new piece I’d make out of flat bar or a nice machined alu part. No need to weld on the chassis.
  6. Great thread, thanks for sharing. It will be such a thrill to open that box!
  7. Yeah, my drysump even follows the shape of the foot well, so better to have something in-between! Tracsport helped me out and exchanged my long T9 input shaft to a shorter one, thanks Steve - super service! I assembled the gearbox today with the new shaft and it is ready to be picked up by the new owner. The drysump is now repaired and after a short polish it can go back into the car. The fitment is so tight, that it can be accessed only when the engine is out…☹️
  8. Some progress here as well. I’m still waiting for parts, So I cleaned up the engine harness a little and added the wires for the gear control unit. The harness doesn’t look very complicated, but I have to say that figuring out all the connections and sensors from scratch was a big job item on this car. I also started work on the chassis loom to add everything for the paddle shift system. My electrical ”tray” with its bus bars for ground, ignition and switched 12V make things relatively easy. The drysump oil tank is now out as well and cleaned up also from the inside - I had a few pinholes that need to be fixed. One large AN connector had trouble sealing and it looks like I have managed to dent the lip. Most likely the best solution is just to replace it.
  9. Ok, the paddle setup has been ordered. I ended up with: - MME integrated gear actuator, which has its own valves and the GCU all built into one tiny package - MME inline valve and inline throttle cable blipper - MME steering wheel paddles for 280 mm flat Momo wheels - Meteor Motorsport compressor and bottle with actuator (only 2.3 kg) The compressor will go to the back of the car, so overall this should end up as a very clean installation in the engine bay. The engine (ECU) loom will require only 2 new connections: - Analog input for the ignition cut signal given by the GCU. The recommendation was not to use the CAN signal for this due to priorities. - Analog input for the gear signal. The MME GCU can send a simulated gear position signal (0-5V), so that the ECU can then also calculate the gear and eventually the AIM display can show it based on its communication with the ECU. I'll also pull this wire to the dash, so that I can have a separate gear indicator if needed. - The GCU will get the TPS and rpm info via the CAN bus, for which I had already a connector in the ECU loom from the dyno session.
  10. Thanks Kitcat, much of this wouldn’t have been possible 20 years ago before forums like this or youtube - today anyone can pick up skills, that were previously very special. The sequential control has been very interesting to study and I’m leaning towards MME Motorsport from Slovenia. They have great documentation online, respond fast to questions, good looking products and a modern can based interface, that requires minimal changes to my engine loom and integrates well to my Ecumaster Black Ecu. It was very similar when researching Ecu’s - many of the Ecus from the Uk felt outdated and expensive with their RS232 interfaces and e.g. lack of built in wideband control. They most likely do their job extremel well once setup, but without any special experteese (here where I live) and minimal info on forums (as most are 10-20 years old tech) I was eventually super happy with my choice. Unfortunately the Ecumaster doesn’t yet have closed loop shift control, so I’ll still need a gear control unit alongside it. The plan is to retain the gear lever for normal shifting and neutral/reverse, while having paddles as an additional option for gears 1-6. I went with 2.30-0.87 gear ratios while keeping my 3.98 Ford diff.
  11. I use 3, which makes navigating the engine hoist easy in the front and the car is very stable. I can recommend AC jack stands with the rubber base if you can still find them, two of mine are already under the ESCO brand.
  12. The Go-Race column was 200g lighter than the original Lifeline, which was a nice surprise. The engine is out again and the Tracsport type9 has been sold, it will continue its life in an Escort - I’ll place an order for a new Sadev sequential this week.
  13. I just came across this thread - this is going to be a brilliant spec, please post as many details as possible on the Sadev and shift setup...!
  14. And a small upgrade - a new steering column from Go-Race arrived, the old one had some play in it. The first impression is great.
  15. At a local car breakfast a photographer took some really nice images of the car - credits to Teemu Turunen:
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