Mark Bondurant

Thank you for letting me know. 😊

Are these engines still available? Thanks! Mark Bondurant markbondurant@gmail.com 937-478-8588

Thanks for the info! I have a few other variables too, specifically that I am adding side draft Jenvey throttle bodies, and I’ll have to reprogram the engine map on the Emerald ECU. It’s been ….a while…since I did that the first time with the stock Zetec. Now if I could just get the lightweight flywheel off…. I’ll look for that gasket today

I have the ARE wet sump as well, from 2004. What did you find as far as gasket, if anything? That looks like a pretty slick skid plate system you have under it. Is that Custom? Did you find that somewhere? I am using the front differential skid plate from a Chevy three-quarter ton four-wheel-drive suburban, attached to the front crossmember with torsion rod supports from a speed shop. So far, no holes in the sump. My stock Zech started blowing lots of oily smoke and I had a failure in number four-cylinder, but the head is fine and it doesn’t look like a blow gasket so I may finally put the SVT engine in that I have had around for a long time. Thanks for any info on the gasket . Mark Bondurant

Awesome, thank you! Mark

Simple question, is there a better TPS than Colvern that works with Jenvey ITB's? Thanks Mark

Thanks all, I was able to get a 24T gear from Transmission Parts Online, an EBay store in the UK, which arrived in just 3 days. Very prompt but the metal tip of the shaft was quite rough. I was able to find a snug drill bit to put into the gear end, and was able to chuck it up into the drill press. Using a medium slow speed I started with 400 wet/dry sandpaper (dry) and progressed through 2000, which smoothed it and put a polish on it. Reinstalled it and got the sensor connected. Will test it when I have the driver’s seat back together and in the car. Had 3 failed welds in the seat frame which I will discuss in a separate post. Cheers! Mark

Mike Thanks very much! I have some time because I’m working on some other repairs as well, so I will follow all your suggestions. Hopefully I will be able to find something on this continent. I very much appreciate your prompt response! Cheers Mark

The plastic shaft of the 24 tooth speedo driven gear on my '04 Roadsport SV with T-9 gearbox has broken, which allows gear oil to leak out. I am replacing it and have it disassembled, only to find the new gear I have is 22 teeth, not 24. Does anyone have one or know where one might find this part? The Ford part # is 60110586 I believe. Any help or leads are very much appreciated! Mark Bondurant Franklin, OH

Okay, more of an update! Finally was able to take the car out for a fabulous early autumn blat yesterday and everything worked smoothly BUT...the alternator light flickers at slightly elevated RPM's. Battery is staying charged, and I have not yet checked voltage at idle or under load but am throwing it out there for any ideas. Did I get a bad alternator? Nothing else has changed. Is 55 amps enough? At least it runs, starts, and will get me through leaf season, but I'll want it fixed properly before next season. Thanks again all! Mark

Thank you all in the Forum, particularly BirkinBernie for locating the part I needed! I got the 334-1879 (GM# 19134872), and did the pulley swap. A couple things came to light compared to the old one which is just slightly different. First, the shaft is just a little bit shorter. The spacer that was on the original worked, but the pulley nut did not. Simple fix, I used the pulley nut that came with the GM replacement, that didn't have the offset of the original. Second, there is something just slightly different with the casting, so it hit against the top of the mounting bolt on the bracket that came with Woody's kit. This wouldn't have been a problem, except that the support arm on the front of the engine is non-adjustable. Again, simple fix, 5 minutes with a Dremel to the top of the mounting bolt and the alternator rocked right into place. I think the culprit ultimately was the 10Ga alternator wire, that led to increased amperage, that melted the connections in the alternator. As is typical of my response to most problems of this nature, I over-engineered the solution. I used a 6Ga wire from alternator to starter, and switched up battery cables to 2Ga, which is one big fat wire. Marine grade of course.....lol. It was finally a good excuse to install a battery cut off switch so I got that done, and tidied up a few other wires while I was at it. Fired right up, and good to go! Perfect timing for autumn leaf tours. Thanks again all for the help and encouragement. Mark ps now for my next problem with my right tail light, where turn signal and brake light both go on when I hit the brake, and turn signal is rapid.....I'll do another post on that.

Mine has for almost 20 years, til last Friday. There was evidence of heat at the battery/starter wire attachment, so I'll up that by a couple gauges to cut the amp drag. Good time to do all my other maintenance as well. I'll wait for snow to finally pull the engine and fix the speedo cable.... Thanks again. Mark

Ordered from Amazon. Local auto suppliers couldn't find it, including NAPA, which surprised me. Thanks, Bernie, sure looks like the right one. Thought it'd be more than 55 amp, but I'll give it a go. Here by 9/13. Also, I'm going to up the gauge of the battery wire, as that seemed to take some heat. Should be up and running again in a couple weeks.

Looks EXACTLY like that one, with the exception of the pulley! (How in the world did you find that??!!)

Thanks Bernie! Mine has a U-shaped lower mount but is otherwise very similar to yours. I feel like we're getting close......:) Mark