Oddbrit

Glad to hear it might work out.

I've got a good British junkyard near me in Warren, Ohio called Team Triumph. They have tons (literally) of MG and Triumph used parts. I was able to secure a good used rim for my 1962 S2 from them for $35 at the beginning of the year. Look them up on line and give them a call. The owners name is Scott.

I'm talking about the chrome ring that surrounds the headlight bulb for Lucas headlights. Attached are some photos. It appears to be held on by a screw clip at the top and a riveted bracket the slips in a slot at the bottom. Any help would be appreciated.

Does anyone know of a source (or were they used on other British cars) of the chrome headlight bezels for a Series 2 car?\ Thanks in advance, Jim

Yes it's 1.75" at best. More like 1.625.

Just got my 63 Series 2 running for first time in a year and more importantly driving for first time since late 70's. Unfortunately to aftermarket muffler soundly terrible. I don't think it has any baffling left. Any sources, preferably in US. Thanks in advance - Jim

From earlier posts you might remember that I was having issues with my Series 2 (Standard 10) rear axle. The previous owner had drilled out the stud holes in order to fit studs appropriate for the Ford Escort wheels he was using. I want to return the car to it's original configuration with narrow fender and Triumph Herald rims. I found new hubs from a Standard 10 supplies in England but did not want to pay the price. So I starting thinking that Triumph probably did not just use these hubs on Standard 10 so starting thinking of other similar sized cars in the Triumph family at that time. My thoughts went to Heralds and Spitfire but those had independent rear axles. Looked at the Moss catalog and saw the still used a taper axle with keyway for fitment. So today I took one of my Standard 10 hubs to our local British used parts supplier and compared to a Spitfire hub. BINGO! Perfect match and $10 each so I was quite happy! Also found the oil seal and paper retainer plate gasket also interchange.

From what I've seen probably not but not absolutely certain. . I've only seen AC Delco gauges in original cars.

Well I finally got around to addressing. Since I changed rear end gears I tracked down a new 22T speedo driven gear so Zi did not have to dig out the broken quill 9in the old one. I bought some 1/8" square key materials and filled down to the width I measures with calipers on the old quill (0.118"). Found it still didn't because it was catching on edges. After looking at old quill I noticed edges are rounded. Few more minutes with file and sandpaper and I had a nice fit in both ends.\ While cleaning I picked up my old speedo gear, fastened a set of small vice grips to the single piece of speedo cable wire hanging out. Low and behold the cable popped out. It appears it was only in about 1/8" so now I have a good used speedo gear for a 4.11 rear. Also found speedo was tight in it's movement so sent it off for rebuilt. Again thanks all!

I was not aware they changed. Mine was manufactured in July 63 and appears to have had a dash mounted mirror. In looking at the link from Bonham's it looks like it might be an MGA mirror. I'll start my search there.

Can anyone tell me what car the original Series 2 rear view mirror might be sources from? Thanks in advance - Jim Bolinger

Thxs Joe - It looks just like mine which is also a Universal Radiator framed car. Not sure why it's there but access to driveshaft/u-joint area is a good guess.

This is a photo of my car right after purchase. If you look closely at the rear of the transmission tunnel you will notice a panel rivetted to the top curved area of the tunnel. It is about 8" long and goes down onto the flat sides about 2-3 inches. It has a flange on the back that riveted to the rear bulkhead aluminum. It this a stock panel or was it an attempt to fix a problem? I'll looked through Tony's book and can not find anything "specific" on the Series 2 cars. It appears the later Caterham had a panel here but not sure about early cars. Also is the tunnel round on top or does it flatten somewhat starting behind the shifter to a more flat top with rounded sides scenario. Again I don't know if mine was altered over time or if it is correct. Thanks in advance, Jim

Ask and you shall receive!!!!! Thanks IamScotticus. I'll research Triumph ratios as I'm lucky enough to have a large British parts/junk yard near me. THANK everyone for their input.

IamScotticus has it right. The Standard housing is trash and the Ital is complete, just wrong ratio. I also didn't mention the Standard axle is not braced and the Ital is. Also someone has redrilled the hubs for larger studs on the Standard axle to run Ford Fiesta rims. So if I do repair the the Standard rear differential cover, fix the pumpkins I still have to deal with getting new hubs and bracing it. This is why I thought the new axle was just the ticket since it solid, complete, braced, etc. (Just wrong ratio). Was hoping it would be a simple swap of center sections but nothing can be that simple can it!!!!

Thanks for trhe comments. I did know it was wider than the standard axle hence my question on the axle shafts fitting. My issue is that my Standard axle had previous owners that "never had time to do it right but always had time to do it again". It normal cracking has been fixed with everything from weld, to braze, to JB Weld to silicone. It's such a mess around the pumpkins area I don't think it can be saved without major surgery. I thought I stuck gold when I was able to purchase another axle. Unfortunately I did not do my homework first and got an Ital axle. My issue (also determined from homework AFTER the fact) is that it has a 3.64 gear ratio. Not sure if my single Weber non-crossflow which have enough oomph to make it work. So that why I'm asking my questions.

Does anyone know if the center section of a Standard 10 axle will fit into a Leyland Ital axle housing? And secondly will Ital axle shafts fit? Thanks in advance - Jim

Thanks to all for the input. Think I can make me way through the problem now!

After reading the advice from all I went back to the problem this afternoon. I was able to get the quill piece out of the 90 degree drive unit by soaking with penetrating oil, grabbing with vice grips and pulling. (photo1). The shape was not what I expected. The square part turned to round as it went further into the 90 degree drive. The second photo shows the gear end which I have not tackled yet. I'm not as concerned about this end because I'm changing rear end ratios and will need to replace the gear with a different tooth count. MY QUESTION - Any idea where I might get a quill?

Thanks, that should work on angle drive end but any ideas of how to get the piece out of the speedo gear end when broke off almost flush?

TEM - you appear to be right the quill (you mentioned) appears to have snapped right where it enters the speedo gear. Any brilliant ideas of how to get piece out of speedo gear (broke off near flush) and secondly, how to get piece out of angle drive section to replace.

Thanks to both of you.

Does anyone know where a can get a speedometer angle drive for the transmission of my 1963 Super Seven S2 1500? Or even what other cars they were originally used on. Thanks in advance, Jim

Vinman1 - I sent you a couple PM's about the rear axle. - Thxs

Thanks MV8. I'm picking the car up tomorrow and over the weekend will pull a front hub, press out the stud and mic it to see what I have. Hopefully I can then find a 3/8 stud with larger splines to fit the existing hole in the hub. I'll keep my fingers crosses. On another subject does anyone know the source of the Series 2 rear wheel cylinders, brake shoes and drums? Same as Spitfire?