Timberline

Sounds about right. The shapes are not the same as fabricated. Putting a big taper on the bolt and/or using pin punches are the tools for the job. That and a big mallet

The frame seems like a way for Caterham to fit different diffs and not change the chassis. It’s the same three big bolts in the frame as in the chassis, so I just copied the published torque values for both steps.

Just remembered though. If you are taking the frame off the diff, consider the washer shimming. I already had my shimming measured and figured out. I still think it’s a good idea to lift the assembly, figure out the shims, lower it, disassemble, then install the frame first. Because you are only messing with internal shims holding the light frame and not the heavy diff.

I had a little bit of drama with the diff, but it was totally on me. The two front bolts go into threaded inserts and I cross threaded one. Then I just kept after it and destroyed the bolt. I was so excited when I caught all the washers successfully. With how stupid I was being, it could have been a lot worse. Knowing that, no matter how wonky the fit is (and mine was really off) get the front bolts in straight first. The aft bolt takes a nut so you can beat the snot out of it and put a big taper on the threads to help with alignment and washer catching. Another option is to take the frame off of the diff and install that to the chassis first. It really made my installation easier. You should take the frame off anyways if you are wanting to paint all the bare surfaces. I did the floor jack method to support the diff. With the weight taken by the jack, it’s easy to position with someone else on the jack.

All I know of Caterham driving is 40 degree mist and showers.

Just got the Caterham titled and licensed!!! Took the inaugural trip with plates to drive the kid to swim practice Driving to vehicle inspection, I had my first minor breakdown! Stopped for gas and car wouldn't start. No tick over, but the battery was charged fine. Turns out, I lost the nut off the starter signal wire. Holding it in place for starting got me on my way. Shout out to the civilian for pushing the starter button for me. @CatManDo Still haven't taken apart the connectors. Hopefully I get some time this week and will let you know what I find.

@CatManDo With the ignition off, checking at the dash between green/black and ground, I am seeing 0 V and actually getting 470 Ohms (tank is full now, so that might be right). With the ignition on, I am seeing 0.001 V (its repeatable positive and negative flipping the leads) and am seeing the 1.3 Mohms one way and no resistance with the leads flipped. I undid the zip ties at the back of the car to loosen the harnesses and connector at the tank. Struggling to get the connector apart because it's got a locking tooth on 3 sides So, no readings, but all the wires and colors are correct.

So, I checked the green/black to ground at the gauge and got a massive resistance of 1.2 Mohms. When I checked it at the track it was the expected 220 ohms for a partially full tank. I think the wire got mixed up somewhere. Any stops along the way? I know it goes into a mystery unit back by the tank (fuel pump relay?)

Anyone know what the signal wire is supposed to show at the gauge? Also, I've got four wires at the gauge. 12V and ground are obvious. Trying to figure out what the other two are supposed to be. Not getting any obvious resistance or voltage on them.

Thanks for the wires! It’s so odd how they skipped pins. Six pin connector and they use 2,3,5,6. Anyways, got resistance of 220 ohms and lifted one side of the car and got 225 ohms. Mostly just a check for the float to be working. Working from there to the dash, where should I chase it next?

Finally got around to taking the back apart to gain access to the fuel tank. Fuel gage does tick over now, but still no signal. The loom was not what I expected. Where should I check for the sensor resistance? Also, is there a way to completely remove the aft boot floor with the roll cage on? I have it most the way out and am super close to just cutting it in half to get it out. And lastly, I am getting engine oscillations at low rpm (about 200 rpm every couple seconds). Adjusting the idle higher makes it better, but then idle is too high. I really don’t know what I am doing. How do you adjust the throttle cable correctly on this car?

Small question for a rainy day: has anyone else had to trim their windshield wipers? Both of mine are about 1/2 inch too long and hit the top and side of the windshield trim. I am planning on trimming them, but would like some reassurance.

Literal blood, sweat, and tears

Nope. Borrowed the magnets from a friend. Though I did shatter one... maybe I should find them a replacement... Lots of caution was needed as they could do damage. I did all the magnet handling on the other side of garage and stuck stacks to a shelf. That was when I broke one. Snapped my fingers a bunch of times too but I think it was worth it for the bond clamp up.

Next thing I need to look at is steering connection and direction. I did a couple turn adjustment after my first drive to get the wheels closer to neutral, nothing fancy. I was happy with the shake down drives after that. However, this last drive, I started to notice steering center drift. I ended the drive with center on the steering wheel moving about 10 degrees to the side. Everything still feels connected, but I am very concerned and need to fix this before driving again. Any ideas on this would be much appreciated.