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Thanks for the info. Unfortunately I can't answer your questions because I haven't done anything yet except acquire a number of bottles of Motul Auto Cool Optimal red coolant which I will use when the time comes. Let us know how the car runs before and after and if you have any issues.

Thank you!

Communicating with him now actually. Thanks.

The attached photo shows a coolant hose identified by a black arrow and labeled Caterham Motorsport. It has a slow leak at the bottom. I've been searching online for a replacement but have found nothing similar yet including it appears Caterham Parts and Beachman. The hose has two significant bends including a 180 under the plastic box and then up and to the left. The car is a 2014. If anyone has an idea of another seller of these please let me know. Much appreciated.

Regarding the referenced plug it IS at the bottom of the sump left side. No external oil tank however. I'm happy it is a wet sump. I don't need or want the extra complication. But it did take a LOT of oil. On the MV8 oil type post, your own chart shows 5W-50 as one of the Duratec oils. Photo of my manual page below and another manual I found online show the same. To say the Duratec is not designed to run that viscosity is your statement but makes no sense to me. 5W-30 is for the Sigma. As long as the car continues to perform well with this oil I will continue to use it. Manual 2.pdf

I think it's seating okay but who really knows. I went in very slow with the new oil adding and measuring. It took what it took. I was pleased to see that it measured the same after a spirited drive. On the old oil it burned some. One thing I'm finding out very quickly is there a a million combos and quirks with these cars. Makes it interesting I guess.

Thanks. Yes I figured this setup might allow a dry sump but is not currently one. On the oil I did indeed as recommended. Check the manual.

What model years does this fix apply? My 2014's gauge reads more fuel than what is actually in the tank.

The oil change went off fine. Used the black plug. Put in 5W-50 per the manual. My paper manual says the 360 wet sump would take 4.5 liters and the one I found on-line said 5.5. It actually took 6.5, closer to what a dry sump would take. As of the first drive the engine temp is running slightly warmer and the idle oil pressure slightly higher which I was hoping for. Engine temp still drops the harder I drive the car however. What an amazing car in the corners.

Yeah it wasn't the best but the car seems to be behaving the same before and after the incident. We have a local car club where I have done cars and coffee with my Porsche. The problem is there are probably not two models the same that show up except Corvettes. And even on boards like this and others there are many opinions for the same issue. On the coolant I realize the system would need to be very well flushed to avoid any negative interacting with a switch from green to red. More research is needed here. Next is an oil change. I am running too low a pressure at hot idle and believe it is probably the lower weight oil used at most oil change shops from previous owner. Going to bring it up to manual spec.

Thanks. Haven't had a chance to get it into service and don't even know where that will be yet. Caterhams aren't exactly a specialization of many shops around here. My knowledge is limited but I'll have that looked at. Gauge accuracy could also be an issue. Already ran it out of gas in my driveway when it was reading around a quarter tank. First time in my life I've done that but also my first British car.

I have a similar issue here with a recently purchased 2014 360. The coolant currently in the system is clearly green. The manual specifically calls for red. The MOTUL previously mentioned is an OAT (organic acid) coolant which is quite a bit different than the standard green coolant. One would think just flush out the green and replace with the proper red but I have read some horror stories (not sure how true) of the coolant system getting gummed up even AFTER a flush. Possibly some green still remains in the radiator or hoses. My car tends to run a bit on the cool side when I get it moving. Around 60 rather than 80+. Not sure if this has anything to do with it. If anyone has any experience with changing to a red OAT coolant from another kind please chime in. Thanks.

You are correct on all counts. Thankfully I have no emission test here and I believe the seller to be a good guy and casual owner. But it is hilarious you mentioned the underbody lights. I removed them with extreme prejudice and they will never shine again. I’m an old school kind of guy. This car is for driving.

Thanks to you guys for chiming in. I'd say both plugs are at about an equal height. I guess I might just have to open both and see what is what. I feel like the blue plug may be there to facilitate a dry sump setup IF it was installed. This is the BAT car. The sales sheet from Hillbank detailing all the options shows dry sump at a $3,500 tab. I'm sure that's where that came from on the BAT listing. It also has the catch tank but no separate oil tank/cooler as far as I can see. Pretty confusing to me but I'm new to all this.

I am a recent buyer of a 2014 360 and looking for advice on an oil change. The sales sheet I received stated this was a dry sump system but there is no external tank. Only a catch can. I believe it is actually wet sump. Please see the attached photos. I am looking for the correct oil drain plug. I think this is the bolt shown in the right side photo. But the left side photo shows another type of bolt. I'll take any advice. Thanks.